When it comes to holidays I’ve always very much been of the mindset that you either have a city break or a relaxing pool holiday - there’s no real in between. That was, until I realised that perhaps I simply hadn’t been staying at the right places.
Euro summer trips are always a good idea, as Dua Lipa will attest. Yet despite being one of Europe’s buzziest destinations of recent times, I had never made it to Lisbon until this year.
Beloved by visitors for its stunning architecture, delicious eateries, brightly coloured azulejos, impressive vistas of the Tagus River (though less so the steep inclines that allow for these views), it’s little wonder why Lisbon has proved such a popular destination in recent years. So when I started planning a long weekend in Portugal’s capital, setting ourselves in a prime location to access all these delights was of paramount importance.
Designed by influential architect Porfírio Pardal Monteiro, Four Seasons Hotel Ritz Lisbon overlooks Eduardo VII Park (the perfect spot for a morning stroll), while also offering panoramic views of the city’s seven hills, Tagus River and St. George’s Castle. With boutiques and cafes a short walk away and the city’s centre an even shorter drive away, the hotel’s location means it’s incredibly accessible without guests being caught amid the bustling centre.
Constructed in 1959 with the intention of showcasing Lisbon’s modernity to international visitors, years on from its conception the city’s first luxury establishment has stood the test of time. Maintaining its modernist charm, inside the lobby is as grand as it is beautiful, with rich, vibrant tapestries by Almada Negreiros and sculptural murals carved into the walls by Martins Correia framing the expansive marble floors and sweeping staircase.
Drawing together the very best of classic luxury and sleek modernity, in the rooms this grandeur translates into serene and spacious suites. Muted palettes allow the expansive city vistas to take centre stage, while his and hers marble sinks, deep tubs and rainfall showers make getting ready for the day feel like that much more of a treat. It perhaps goes without saying that there proved no better way to end the day than collapsing into the most wonderfully plush king size bed.
Oh, and vitally, the pastéis de nata waiting in our room on arrival meant that our delicious custard pastry count had reached three within minutes of arriving at the hotel. This would quickly climb to 12 over the long weekend thanks to several pre and post dinner pit stops.
While I’d always thought of city breaks as all or nothing type holidays, having a top level state-of-the-art gym with reformer beds to boot and even a 400m running track on the hotel’s roof (though this was sadly out of action during our stay) means that you can get a head start on your sightseeing without even leaving the hotel.
Following busy morning itineraries checking off the likes of Bairro Alto, Baixa and Praça do Comércio, Belém Tower, Alfama and beyond, the spa level provided a welcome oasis to recharge and wind down for the day. Between the indoor and outdoor pool and sauna and steam rooms, guests have ample opportunity to make the absolute most of the quiet moments in between sightseeing.
Typically, after a busy morning exploring Lisbon's delights we’d head back to the hotel for 4pm before lazing in the fading sunshine of the outdoor pool and eventually migrating inside for a sauna and swim in the 18 metre indoor lap pool, with natural light pouring in to the beautifully designed space from the hotel’s landscaped garden area.
When it comes to food, you need only walk down to the lobby and around the corner to sample one of the best restaurants in Lisbon: CURA. A Michelin-starred restaurant where creativity is balanced with bold flavours in their tasting menu Percurso (meaning ‘the journey’), whether you're planning a stay at Four Seasons Ritz Hotel Lisbon or not I would urge you to ensure that you indulge in a visit.
Marrying quintessential Portuguese recipes with true gastronomic artistry, this is one delicate dining experience you won't soon forget, with the blissfully rich pork balanced with tart fig tones living on in my mind rent-free. Our friendly server João talked us through each course in detail, while Chef Rodolfo Lavrador even took the time serve one of the plates himself. It's no surprise that the restaurant earned its Michelin star in its inaugural year and has retained it ever since.
Likewise, breakfast in itself is an occasion at Four Seasons Ritz Hotel Lisbon. The Varanda restaurant dining room is grand yet unfussy, with outdoor seating also available for warmer months.
Whatever you could possibly dream up or want for is well accounted in the lavish daily breakfast buffet, from freshly baked pastries, fruits and yoghurts to a savoury spread of smoked salmon, charcuterie and cheese galore. And that's all before we've even gotten to the eggs, pancakes or à la carte menu where guests can order all the breakfast classics such as Eggs Benedict, french toast, a green smoothie powerful enough to heal all sins and everything in between.
If you manage to sneak in a trip to Four Seasons Hotel Ritz Lisbon over summer, you may even be lucky enough to catch the ice cream cart on your way back into the hotel, with the standout flavour here being the wonderfully zingy pineapple and mint.
Delicious dining options, thoughtful details, crisp white linens, luxe communal areas and all the fine details in between make coming home to Four Seasons Hotel Ritz Lisbon after a long day of sightseeing all the more relaxing. A word I previously never thought synonymous with a city break.
It turns out, you can in fact, have your cake and eat it too. You simply need to make sure you're booking a stay here.
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