The DM:
Dear derm,
I don’t have sensitive skin, but as soon as autumn hits, my face starts stropping – what’s going on?
Annie R
The Derm:
Dr Maryam Zamani, Oculoplastic surgeon, facial aesthetics doctor and founder of MZ Skin.
The Diagnosis:
Dear Annie,
Stroppy autumn skin is very common as we transition into a new season, so don't stress too much. Autumn skin tends to be drier as humidity levels drop and changing temperatures from dry indoor heating to colder outside weather can wreak havoc on the skin, making it appear more dry, red and sensitive.
Here's what you can do…
Reactive and angry skin during autumn can be addressed with in office treatments that can combat photo-ageing, including pigmentation and redness. Light and laser treatments can be used to help improve skin tone and texture, in combination with a complimentary skincare regimen to bolster skin health.
Adding skin boosters is another way to inject nutrients into the skin to help improve uneven tone and appearance. I like to start with an antioxidant serum rich in vitamin C to help protect the skin from UV and oxidative damage, while also working to even skin tone, decrease pigmentation and promote collagen production. In the evening, I highly recommend using antioxidant serums followed by hyaluronic acid-rich hydrating moisturisers to help replenish lost moisture and provide minerals and compounds, which help rejuvenate the skin while you sleep. Using products containing Vitamin A and retinols will help repair damage caused from UV exposure.
Deeper exfoliations would also be an excellent start to remove old, dead, lacklustre skin that's been weathered by the environment. Overall, the cornerstone of good skin is consistent skincare rituals.
Using a serum-based formulation means it can be layered beneath other products if and when needed. Serums can nourish without making skin feel heavy, especially in the evening if you're introducing more products. However, switching to a heavier hydrating moisturiser, like The Rich Moisturiser by MZ Skin, during the day is also quite important to help maintain skin hydration and dewiness.
Using other topical skincare ingredients that can target pigmentation can be helpful, such as azelaic acid, kojic acid, mandelic acid, retinols and other pigment suppressors that may be prescription based.
Skincare should be adapted to skin hydration. Spring-summer months may need lighter lotions or creams, while in drier, autumn-winter months, it's essential to add hydrators to plump skin and lock in moisture. Key ingredients can include glycerin, multi-molecular weight hyaluronic acid, squalene, peptides and ceramides. Face masks can be an excellent addition to boost hydration and deeply nourish skin, particularly with changes in temperature and indoor heating.
For new starters, autumn is an excellent time to introduce retinol into your regimen to help stimulate collagen production, improve the texture and tone of the skin and help reverse signs of photo-damage and photo ageing. Using this form is slightly stronger than retinyl palmitate but choosing products that use encapsulation [like Medik8's Crystal Retinol, MZ Skin Advanced Retinol Complex Serum and Elizabeth Arden Retinol Ceramide Line Erasing Eye Cream] helps minimise irritation. It will gently refine the skin and stimulate cell turnover to help reverse and prevent sun damage, resulting in healthy, refreshed and glowing skin.
With the increase in skin cell turnover caused by retinoid products, it is imperative to have adequate sun protection, to prevent accelerated ageing and more importantly to decrease the risk of skin cancers. In the summer I use retinoids or retinol every other night, while in the autumn, it can be increased incrementally until it is used nightly."
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