The AW13 Backstage Beauty Reporter – Milan
GLAMOUR's Junior Beauty Writer Sarah Jossel goes backstage at Milan Fashion Week AW13 to bring you all the latest hair and beauty trends, hot off the catwalk.
#MFW Begins!
And we're off for round 3 of Fashion Week mania. Having woken up at 5am, boarded the plane at 7am, landed in Milan at 10am; and guzzled at least 2-3 coffees along the way. We're now ready to bring you the latest backstage beauty buzz - Milan style!
#beautyreporter
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Day 1 - Just Cavalli
I Love Rock ‘n’ Roll...
And that's exactly what this girl is - Rock ‘n’ roll with an edge.
"It’s a sexy smoky eye," says one of GLAMOUR’s favourite make-up artists, Benjamin Puckey. "My key product is the new MAC Eye Gloss in Black Sea. It gives the perfect lived in, glossy feel."
Unlike the sheen on the eyes, skin was kept matte and lips were taken down with MAC Lip Erase (£11).
And here is Mr. Puckey working his magic with his key products pictured below.
Oh, and look who we spotted. None other than Georgia May Jagger.
Milan is known for going all-out in the beauty stakes, so it only seems right that our first nail look is nothing less than fabulous.
"I'm mixing two shades to create the perfect pewter. It's MAC Visual Art (coming Autumn 2013) polish with a few drops of Fierce Elegance (coming Autumn 2013)", says Keri Blair for MAC. "As for the shape, we want each girl to be herself, so we're working with their natural shape."
With statement make-up and metallic nails; it only makes sense that the Cavalli manes are 20s fluffy waves.
"I'm winding hair in a figure of eight around metal rods," says James Pecis for Moroccan Oil. "I'm then clamping hair straighteners to give extra hold. After I've unravelled the hair and brushed it out with a Moroccan Oil Paddle Brush (£13.85); the final look is a retro, voluminous do."
Before the girls strut the catwalk, James is spritzing in Moroccan Oil Glimmer Shine spray (£18.65) in their hair.
Day 1 - Prada
Prada Perfection
From a fashion perspective, you've made it if you get invited to the Prada show. From a beauty perspective? Dream team Guido Palau and Pat McGrath can do no wrong. They could even tell us the girls got caught in the rain and their make-up had smudged off and we would think it's amazing; and funnily enough, that's exactly what happened....
"She's a nonchalant, cool girl," says Guido for Redken. "She puts on her beautiful, rich clothes and doesn't bother with her hair. Some girls are having slick back hair, others swept to the side; really it's whatever works."
He goes on to say that she's the girl everyone wishes they could be after being caught in a rainstorm. In our dreams!
Want the wet look?
"I'm drenching hair in Redken’s Guts (£8). It gives a wet effect without making it sticky or stiff. Also it dries looking wet." (Sounds confusing! But it really works)
"I'm really excited about Redken’s Diamond Oil (Coming August 2013). I'm adding it in the line up to emphasise the shine and glossy texture."
"I'm sweeping on a strong grey, matte eye shadow and a statement plum lip," says Pat. There's a pause and she follows with "but then we're smudging it all off. I want it to look like shadows or remnants of old make-up."
And here's Pat doing exactly that - rubbing away any make-up that looks too fresh.
Day 1 - Ports 1961
"The girl today is... pause Actually there's no inspiration," says the brilliant Eugene Souleiman for Wella. "Today is about rich, elegant hair. It's effortless but really considered and all the detail is in the back."
"The front has a masculine feel but the pleat and roll at the back gives a couture, feminine finish. This look is Net-A-Porter meets classic couture.”
Guess who these tools belong to?
Eugene's must-have products for the look:
Wella Ocean Spray (£11.50)
Wella hairspray (£10.50 - £12.25)
Day 1 - Dsquared²
Girl meets Boy
"We thought about doing some girls as ultra feminine and some as more masculine," says Sam McKnight."but then I made the call to mix the two together; so, it's boyish from the front with a slick finish and a strong parting, and then we're tonging the end of the ponytail for that girly bounce."
The clothes have ties and suit jackets mixed in with long sequin dresses - so the boy vs. girl theme is running through fashion and beauty.
Day 2 - Moschino
Best of British
Are you confused? Moschino is about as Italian as it gets, right? Not today! "Its a homage to British style," says both Tom Pecheux and Sam McKnight. "There's tartan running through the collection. The models are being styled into Italian versions of young, cool British girls."
Moschino Manes...
"It’s clean, gorgeous hair," explains Sam. "We're setting the hair with tongs, gently back combing the roots and then gathering it into a low ponytail; making sure the hair covers the top of the ears."
Key product: Pantene Mousse Volume and Body (£3.69)
Moschino Make-up...
"Lots of mascara," says Tom. "Lots and lots of mascara. The rosy blush is also a key feature; I'm playing with creamy textures to get a dewy, natural flush."
Toms Backstage Beauty Lesson: For a light, fresh make-up look, practice working with cream blush textures - they give a much more real finish. Powders look like layers on top of each other, whereas creams melt into each other.
Mr. McKnight working away at about 7am. But all worth it for hair that looks as effortless and chic as the Moschino girl.
Day 2 - Sportmax
The Snow Glow
"Fresh, glowing girls," says Charlotte Tilbury, when describing the Sportmax look. "It's as if they've just run through the snow."
Skin: Kept on the paler side.
Brows: Handsome and gelled up.
Cheeks: A berry shade from MAC’s new lip palette is being blended into the top of the cheekbones.
Lips: Same product as cheeks.
Mascara: None
Stop You're Making Me Blush
We asked Charlotte what the one product is she couldn't live without for this show... She said 'blush, blush, blush.' In fact, she then went on to say this season is all about blush.
Charlotte's top 3 blushes:
MAC Blush in Dainty (£19)
NARS Blush in Orgasm (£21.50)
Tom Ford Blush (£45)
It's amazing how many nude nail shades we've seen backstage and yet we still get excited when we're introduced to a new one.
All the girls had 2 coats of the most perfect, soft nude painted on their nails. Shade name: Tom Ford Nail Polish in Toasted Sugar (available in the USA).
Day 2 - Etro
While most shows give us a wristband to get backstage; Etro gives us a super chic badge.
You know you're backstage at Etro when...
1. You spot the Etro branded water.
2. You've watched over 200 Etro cushions being laid out for the show.
3. You've eyed up the models collecting their Etro gifts.
And 4: You've eaten at least 5 pieces of the most delicious olive bread.
Etro's famous for the best backstage catering; and when we say best... We mean best.
We should probably talk beauty at some point...
Charlotte Tilbury’s inspiration was a strong, powerful and cool girl. And oh boy, does Jacquelyn Jablonski look fierce.
"Statement brows, a gunmetal grey from the lash line to the brow, brown mascara and a hint of lip balm are the key elements of this look," says Charlotte. "We're also using MAC Pro Sculpting Creams (£17.50) on the cheekbones for a soft flush."
Handsome Hair
The boy theme is back, and it's safe to say it's going to be a strong trend for AW13.
"I call this look the faux hawk," says Eugene Souleiman "the collection is colourful and has myriads of patterns floating throughout. So I've decided to go against that and create something handsome."
Eugene separated hair into 3 sections and used a paddle brush to slick it back.
Eugene’s Etro kit:
Wella’s Perfect Setting Hairspray (£5.20)
Wella’s Moulding Paste (£7.88)
And just as an FYI...
Models do eat pizza and they do drink hot chocolate.
On to the next show we go...
Day 2 - Blumarine
Romantic Rock ‘n’ Roll: Are you thinking the two don't go together? Allow us to explain...
Romantic: Unruly and whispy.
Rock n Roll: Brushed off the face and slicked back.
"We're setting hair loosely with large tongs and applying tons of Moroccan Oil Curl Defining Cream (£23.85). This cream gives hair the weight and thickness to hold it back," says James Pecis for Moroccan Oil.
And a shout out to Amra Cerkezovic - the model in this picture. We have total hair envy and wish we could rock her cool cut.
Blumarine
In case you're thinking we've turned into a fashion blog, we're actually still talking about Blumarine hair.
"I'm using a needle and stretchy elastic to keep hair put when the girls are on the catwalk," says James. "I weave it over and under to stop the hair from having too much movement."
Genius!
Day 3 - Ermanno Scervino
From Moodboard to Model
"It's all in the eyes," says Jessica Nezda for MAC. "I'm doing a lot of shading and sculpting across the lids."
The Scervino shades:
Eyeshadows in Crystal Avalanche, Scene, Satin Taupe (all £12) - and no mascara.
Hepburn Hair
"We're channeling Audrey Hepburn today," says Franco Gobbi for Moroccan Oil. "But in a modern, contemporary way."
Franco used Moroccan Oil Curl Control Mousse (£14.25) to get rid of any volume as he wanted a sleek, small shape. He then rolled, and twisted the hair over the top of the head to create a faux fringe.
At least we know the girls are getting their 5-a-day at Scervino.
Day 3 - Roberto Cavalli
Moodboard to Model
And another statement eye look this morning... "It's a sexy, punk, smoky eye," says Lucia Pieroni for MAC.
"I'm keeping skin fresh and neutral, with a touch of shine; but today it's really about the eyes."
"I'm using MAC Graphblack Technakohl Liner (£14) along the waterline," says Lucia.
"The two key eyeshadows are Black Tie – sparkly (£12) – and Carbon – matte (£12). I'm blending them out into a cat eye. I'm layering on MAC False Lashes Mascara (£18) and using a new product called MAC Eye Gloss in Black Sea across the lids for a glossy, oily look."
Lucias’ top beauty tip: Pat the lid with a flat wide makeup brush to get a blended, lived in finish.
Trend Alert: The Wet Look
Redken’s Guido Palau described the girls at Prada as unfussy, chic ladies who got stuck in a rainstorm; and that same nonchalant, glossy girl is back at Cavalli.
"I'm mainly working with shine products today to create an ultra glossy (almost wet) finish," says Guido. "I want the girls to have their own individual look; while they all have middle partings, I haven't used any extensions, so they all have unique, different lengths."
Guido's Cavalli Kit:
Redken Shine Flash 02 (£13) all over the hair
Redken Diamond Oil (out in August) on ends
Day 3 - Emilio Pucci
"We're reinventing the Pucci girl this season," says make-up artist Lisa Butler for MAC. "We normally work with glossy textures but we've decided to go with a matte finish. The look is also supposed to be very neat and precise. We're trimming fake lashes to fit perfectly, drawing straight black flicks along the upper lashline, and to avoid a flat, mannequin effect; we're dotting on fake freckles. The lip is a beige, neutral shade and we're keeping skin completely matte.
Our thoughts? Pucci perfection...
Faux Fringe Fabulousness
"For hair, think Marianne Faithfull, Anita Pallenberg, late sixties, early seventies, Kate Moss and Jane Birkin," says the amazing Luigi Murenu. With this calibre of hair inspirations -the look can be nothing but effortlessly chic, loose waves; and that's exactly what today was all about.
"We've pre-made the perfect faux fringes for each girl. It's shorter in the front and longer layers at the side," adds Luigi. "We're then tonging mid-length to ends, and giving it an added glossy feel with Kerastase Oleo-Relax Serum (£13.79)."
We're loving the organisation of Luigi's team. Each models’ fringe is labelled and ready to be clipped in. And look! We've spied Joan Smalls’ and Lindsey Wixson’s fake bangs.
And here's Luigi himself perfecting model Hanne Gaby Odiele’s faux fringe.
Day 4 - Marni
It's fair to say that the Marni girl is unpredictable; two seasons ago hair and make-up channelled Tim Burton and Wednesday Addams; and last season they were nonchalant girls that didn't spend more than 2 minutes on their hair. For AW13? A completely new Marni madam.
Get the Look: Marni Lips
1.Smooth on MAC’s Lipmix in Crimson (available in the USA)
2. Add a slick of MAC lipstick in Hang-Up (£14).
3. Dip a cotton bud into MAC Pro Pigment in Basic Red and repeatedly sweep it across the lip line for a soft focus, blurred finish.
It really is as easy as 1,2,3.
Marni Make-Up
"Let me start by telling you the collection is insanely beautiful," says GLAMOUR's favourite Tom Pecheux. "So for make-up I've gone for a mood, a feeling; the key part of the look is the lips. We're erasing the lip line so that their statement pouts fade into the skin - I want it to look blurred on the catwalk. With the lip and skin both having matte textures, I've decided to go for a peachy taupe, glossy finish."
Moodboard to Model
Tom’s Marni inspiration comes to life.
And because we love Tom Pecheux so much, we couldn't go a whole show without a photo credit.
Here he is taking a step back from his work station to check he's happy with the make-up.
Beauty Break!
Amidst the Marni mayhem we noticed that all the girls who work for the designer were rocking the most amazing statement Marni necklaces.
Here are some of our favourites...
Hairstylist Paul Hanlon was working against the clock and sadly didn't have time to talk us through the look.
But...
Good things come to those who wait. And Mr. Hanlon himself was sitting in front of us on the plane back to London; even though his call time for Marni was before the sun had risen, he still turned around and talked us through the look.
So Paul Hanlon, thank you for being GLAMOUR's hair hero.
"The collection is really different this season," says Hanlon. "It's more masculine and tailored, and there's a definite military feel." He pointed out that the catwalk setting had a forest feel with tiny branches and trees, "so I wanted the roots to look straggly; as if she'd got caught in the outdoors. I soaked hair in Tigi Catwalk’s Curlesque Mousse (£9.95) to give that stiff, wet look; and braided the underneath of the hair to keep the shape small and flat. Before the girls went out, I clipped tissues across the nape of the neck; it left a strong kink as if they'd been wearing scarves in the outdoors."
And that my friends is a MFW wrap.
Rain, snow or shine; we promise to keep you in the beauty loop for AW13.Next stop... Paris Fashion Week.
