From coral reef damage to potential health risks, we take a deep dive into the murky depths of suncare

SPF, UVA, UVB, UVC (yes it’s a thing), oxy-this, benzo-that... The world of sun care isn’t one that’s easy to navigate. But with concerns for both human health and the impact on the environment, it’s never been more pertinent to find our way through the maze. GLAMOUR Beauty Editor Lottie Winter calls upon the industry experts to clear up any confusion…

BACK TO BASICS

While the language that surrounds it may be off-putting and (sometimes deliberately?) confusing, suncare is actually very easy to understand once broken down.

There are two types of UV light that are relevant to us in terms of suncare (UVC doesn’t reach the Earth’s surface, so let’s just forget about it for now). There’s UVA, which is able to penetrate into the skin, reaching the deeper dermis and causes cellular damage and collagen loss.

Then there’s UVB, which is only able to reach the top layer of the skin known as the epidermis, and causes the skin to burn. It’s important that a sunscreen is able to protect you from both types of UV rays.

Then there are two types of UV filters, which are able to protect us from UVA and UVB. First up, there are mineral filters, including zinc oxide and titanium oxide, which sit on the surface of the skin and act as a physical barrier against UVB rays. Then there are chemical filters, which are able to protect against UVA.

WHAT’S THE DEAL WITH SPF?

Sun protection factor, or SPF, only refers to UVB protection. The higher the level of UVB protection (so, the higher the level of mineral filters), the higher the SPF.

So, which factor should you go for?

“Physical mineral filters are designed to provide a barrier on the skin surface. This means that they will ultimately be wiped and washed away or be sweated off within a few hours,” says skincare biochemist Nausheen Qureshi. “This means that no matter what the factor, you’ll still need to reapply every few hours.”

Wearing SPF50 can discourage people from reapplying as regularly as they assume they’re protected for longer, as well as often being more expensive to buy. “I think SPF30 is the optimum - it’s easier to blend and contains fewer actives than SPF50,” says Nausheen.

HOW DO YOU TELL IF IT’S GOT UVA PROTECTION?

The SPF won’t provide any indication if your sun cream provides UVA protection. To decipher that, you’ll need to look for a “UVA” label, which sometimes has a circle around it. “If it has a circle around it, it means that it meets the European standards of protection against cancer,” explains Jean-Christophe Samyn, managing director of Caudalie UK. “Mineral sun creams won’t have this because they do not provide adequate UVA protection.”

LET’S TALK ABOUT THE OCEAN

There’s been a huge focus on the ingredients used in sun creams that have caused damage to marine life. Hawaii famously banned the sale of sun creams that contain two of the biggest offenders, Oxybenzone and Octinoxate, and many brands have excluded the ingredients from their formulas.