Paris Fashion Week: 11 talking points
Paris Fashion Week has come to an end, closing five weeks of catwalk shows in New York, London and Milan.
Paris is home to the industry's most legendary brands, from Chanel and Dior to Louis Vuitton and Celine. It's where trends are cemented and where the most influential looks of the season are created.
This season was more exciting than most. Demna Gvasalia - the mastermind behind cult label Vetements - made his dazzling debut at Balenciaga, bringing his wearable subversive cool to one of Paris' most legendary fashion houses.
Find out what the FROW were wearing, who threw the most raucous party and the biggest trends with our 12-point guide Paris Fashion Week autumn/winter 2016:
THE SHOW: Balenciaga
The hot ticket this season was unarguably Denma Gvasalia’s debut at Balenciaga. Expectation was high – how would the Vetements wunderkind mold his twisted utilitarian aesthetic to a hallowed historic French fashion house like Balenciaga? Well, he didn’t disappoint, turning the humble puffa jacket into an object of desire, twisting the trench coat with an innovative play on proportion and teaming patchwork floral dresses with swirling candy cane print tights.
IndigitalTHE FROW LOOK: Head-to-toe French designers
One of the most warming FROW trends we’ve noticed this season is how fashion editors have celebrated each city’s designers by wearing head-to-toe looks by talents who hail from that country. In Milan, everyone was wearing Gucci, while in Paris all the fashion girls were in either Vetements and Celine. A sweet supportive move.
IndigitalTHE TREND: Exaggerated flares
We’re not talking about the subtle kick-flares that are around now – next year’s trouser of choice will be loose and dramatically flared – see Celine’s louche, breezy shape.
IndigitalTHE MODEL LINE-UP: H&M
Round of applause to be H&M, whose catwalk line-up was wonderfully diverse – from 65-year-old icon Pat Cleveland and modeling veteran Amber Valletta to the tomboyish Freja Beha Erichsen and the smoking hot Jourdan Dunn.
IndigitalTHE SHOE: Chloe’s block heel ankle boot
The latest Chloe show was themed around biker girls, so it seems fitting that the footwear should be the star. It came by way of a practical ankle boot with a hardy block heel – these are boots meant for walking in.
Rex FeaturesTHE PARTY: Kenzo vs L’Oreal Red Obsession
Tuesday was fashion’s equivalent of Super Tuesday as two major parties took place in Paris. Kenzo celebrated the launch of its collaboration with upcoming adaptation of The Jungle Book, transforming a cabaret club into a leafy rave scene. Meanwhile, L’Oreal invited some of the world’s most desirable models to a private mansion for its Red Obsession party, attended by a brigade of red-clad beauties, from Karlie Kloss and Lara Stone to Barbara Palvin and Irina Shayk (who accessorised her mini dress with boyfriend Bradley Cooper).
IndigitalTHE TALKING POINT: Are the traditional fashion seasons still relevant?
This is a subject that keeps cropping up this season – whether or not we should still pay attention to fashion’s traditional spring/summer and autumn/winter seasons. Several designers certainly seem to be dismissing the idea, instead creating trans-seasonal collections – Celine featured sandals, Chloe’s catwalk was dominated by floaty sunshine dresses and slip dresses at Vuitton. As Philo says, it’s always sunny somewhere in the world.
IndigitalTHE LOOK: It’s all about juxtaposition
The easiest way to look cool next season? Juxtapose contrasts – whether it be silk with chunky knits a la Vuitton, sequins with chunky boots like Balenciaga and hoodies with trench coats as in Vetements. Opposites attract.
IndigitalTHE TREND: Quilting
Who could have predicted that puffa jackest would make a return? Vetements, Stella McCartney and Balenciaga all recreated the 90s classic this season, while Chanel offered more ladylike options.
IndigitalTHE STYLING NOTE: Celine belt bag
Phoebe Philo at Celine offered a new way of wearing our bag this season – round the waist like a souped up bumbag. We love.
Getty ImagesTHE SET: Chanel
Nothing is more indicative of your place in the fashion hierarchy than a catwalk seating plan – front row is ideal, second and third row are acceptable, fourth means you’re junior and standing means no one cares about you at all. Chanel came to the rescue this season by recreating Coco Chanel’s 60s Rude Cambon studio, in which all guests were given a FROW gold seat. Praise be to Karl Lagerfeld.
