The denim trends we'll all be wearing according to LFW (including hipster silhouettes and cutaway)
After seasons, no, years when blue jeans were pretty much the main way we wore our jeans, London Fashion Week saw a host of fresh new denim trends on the catwalk. Our favourite designers went wild for bold textures, unusual washes, and quirky details that have moprhed this tough workwear fabric into everything more than ‘just’ jeans…
If you’ve taken a few turns around the sun, you might recognise some of the tropes of the season from Y2K’s major denim moments and this rebirth of denim - a dennaisance if you will - chimes with the type of denim that was in fashion back in the early Naughties.
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Jeans came washed with tobacco-shades at KNWLS that looked authentically dirty. Lightweight denim was cut on the bias to make slinky slip dresses. Tyre patterns were printed on corset-dresses (at Masha Popova) while we saw crystal-encrusted smart separates at Huishan Zhang. Washes ranged from dirty shades through indigo, encompassed every colour in between, and went far beyond.
As with all trends, the main message is you do you. If you’re quite happy with your washed blue boyfriend jeans, stick with them. We're keeping ours, too. But if you’re interested to know what’s coming next, brace yourself…
It’s been rumbling for a few seasons but it’s clear that the hipster silhouette is back. Lower waistlines were a key shape on the denim that appeared on the catwalk. At the same time, baggier widths and lengths that dragged the floor cemented a mood for denim that read like a memoir of a late 90s girl band… Washes were deliberately distressed and high contrast, like David Koma’s indigo jeans with their visible whispering, or crisply retro (as we saw with Chopova Lowena’s stiff indigo skirts.) And denim was used for far more than ‘just’ jeans.
At one of the most impactful shows from LFW, Masha Popova showed a collection almost entirely made from denim in every iteration you could imagine. Her denim dreams were bleached, ruched, quilted, shredded, corseted and cutaway. Each surprising new finish of the fabric provided a creative take that denim is normally excluded from. Denim divas rejoice, Spring 2023 looks set to be all about the blues… Read on to see our pick of the best denim trends from the LFW SS23 catwalks…
Read more from Glamour UK Fashion Director at large Alex Fullerton here or follow her on Instagram @alexandrafullerton
Victor VIRGILEMasha Popova - Creative Cuts
While some designers might take fabric and cut it into clothes, Masha Popova took denim to inspired heights. We saw the return of distressed and dirty denim - yellow washed to look authentically Y2K - and denim that had been printed to look like it had been run over with tyre tracks. There was pleated denim, bleach wash denim and severely frayed denim boots that all showed off the versatility of the fabric.
Victor VIRGILEHuishan Zhang - Crystallised
Usually know for elegant evening wear and chic separates adorned with flourishes of feathers and exquisite lace, Huishan Zhang dialled things down this season. The mood was more minimal and even included a sky blue denim co-ord. Although studded with crystals and gems, it still chimed with Spring’s mood for sparkle, shimmer and everything embellished.
Victor VIRGILEChopova Lowena - Indigo A-Go-Go
Crisp unwashed denim offered the flip side to the distressed denim trend and Chopova Lowena, who turned the fabric into kilt-style skirts, led the way. The pristine fabric was in contrast to the punky details in the rest of the collection.
Victor VIRGILENensi Dojaka - Double Denim
This whole collection was a stand-out in a rather serious season. We’ve got used to seeing Nensi’s sexy slip dresses and wisps of translucent silks and chiffon on Zendaya, Emma Watson, Dua Lipa and Sophie Turner… but the appearance of these clever spliced jeans showed that the Albanian designer had levelled up to a new era of creativity.
Tim Whitby/BFCRejina Pyo - Inside Out
Rejina Pyo turned the concept that office-appropriate denim has to be dark, inside out. Literally. Her show focused on the concepts of cool, easy workwear and of course denim can be part of an IRL office wardrobe (as well as being ideal WFH-ware.) The raw edge trim and paler interior of this denim make these catwalk jeans jsut as easy to wear as trousers and we’re here for them.
Lia Toby/BFCDilara Findikoglu - Divine Distress
Transforming tough workwear denim into something as light and lacy as a piece of filigree, Dilara Findikoglu proved why she’s was one of the most thrilling new talents on the LFW schedule. And of course these iconic jeans were worn low on the hip and sweeping the floor.
Stuart Wilson/BFCKNWLS - Denim Dressing
Showing that denim is more than just jeans (and reiterating the return of dirty denim) Charlotte Knowles showed a denim heavy collection that we’re into for Spring. This bias cut denim slip (meaning the denim is cut on an angle, to make it drape) in a grungy washed shade will be all over your feeds next year.
Victor VIRGILEMark Fast - Washed Denim
True blue denim is a fashion classic but Mark Fast took one of the colours of the season - lilac - and overwashed a denim co-ord with a lavender hue. It exemplifies the new mood of denim where absolutely anything goes (although if it's baggy and low-slung, all the better.)
Stuart Wilson/BFCMolly Goddard - Coming Up Roses
Floral printed denim was a concept we saw in Molly’s autumn / winter collection and it continues for next spring with cartoon sketches splattered over pale washed denim. Adding a hit of originality to the concept of jeans and a jumper, we’ll wear them with a floral blouse next spring.
David M. BenettDavid Koma - How Low Can You Go
It’s been bubbling for a few seasons, but the appearance of super low-cut jeans on the catwalk has confirmed the trend. Hipster jeans are back, baby. And at David Koma (and Masha Popova) they were teamed with that other Y2K detail, the cutaway, a visible thong or denim g-string.
Stuart Wilson/BFCEftychia - Power Denim
We’ve long been fans of the simplicity of the power combo of jeans and a blazer to elevate our outfits and these straight leg strides, with ironed in crease, bring back retro memories.
