Hyaluronic acid is great for skin, but should we be using it on our hair, too?
Over the past few years, hyaluronic acid has cemented its place as a staple ingredient within our skincare routines for its unparalleled plumping and hydrating benefits. Recently, however, the star ingredient has been popping up in haircare formulas as well, but does our hair really need it?
First up, let's acknowledge that the ‘skinification’ of haircare is nothing new. High tech active ingredients that were traditionally used in skincare have been increasingly used in haircare over the past five years. We've seen shampoos with salicylic acid to tackle dandruff and flaky scalps, antioxidants to safeguard against pollution and damage and glycerin for an intense moisture boost. It was just a matter of time before hyaluronic acid was called up.
But can hyaluronic acid really hydrate our hair as well as it can do our skin, or is it simply a marketing fad to jazz up new formulas? We've asked the experts to weigh in on the matter…
For the uninitiated, hyaluronic acid is a carbohydrate molecule that has a unique ability to bind to and retain water molecules meaning it is a great hydrator as well as natural lubricant. As well as being made synthetically, it's also naturally found in the skin as well as ligaments and tissues but it can deplete due to the natural ageing process as well as exposure to environmental aggressors like UV rays and pollution.
While hyaluronic acid has proven benefits for the skin, experts at the DECIEM Lab Team are not convinced of its benefit to hair itself. “Hyaluronic acid is a highly humectant molecule, meaning that it holds onto water and while the water content of hair fibres may have a positive impact on hair strength, this content is heavily dependent on the condition of the fibre (relating to the amount of damage it has experienced), alongside the relative humidity of the environment."
Plus, an excessive amount of water in the hair fibre may lead to increased tangling, swelling of the fibres (making them more susceptible to combing damage) and a loss of shape in hairstyles (just like when humidity changes the results of a blow dry). “With water content of hair being such a difficult variable to control, there are no known benefits to using humectant ingredients like hyaluronic acid on hair lengths.”
Trichologist Anabel Kingsley adds, “there is less data on hyaluronic acid's impact on hair fibre as opposed to the skin, but it will depend on the molecular weight of the hyaluronic acid used and how it is formulated into the product.”
Other experts, however, note that the ingredient can help in the short term. "Hyaluronic acid is useful if the hair is quite weathered. It will temporarily fill in the gaps on the hair strands to seal in moisture, which will help revitalise hair and improve texture, as well as keep the hair hydrated,” explains Stephanie Sey, expert trichologist at Nizoral.
While the jury is still out on whether hyaluronic acid has a positive effect on hair, the benefits on the scalp are undeniable. “It can definitely benefit from the topical application of humectant components that can bind onto water such as hyaluronic acid,” explains the DECIEM Lab Team. “This can improve scalp hydration and offers skin barrier protection.”
Stephanie agrees: “Hyaluronic acid acts as a humectant by holding water molecules onto the surface of your scalp to keep it nice and hydrated. It can also help to moisturise flaky, dry scalps and is great when used alongside a shampoo containing Ketoconazole.”
There's a wide variety of hair and scalp products containing hyaluronic acid, including in salon treatments like Kérastase Fusio Dose, as well as at-home shampoos, conditioners and serums. Keep scrolling to discover our pick of the best…
The Inkey List
The Inkey List Hyaluronic Acid Hydrating Hair Treatment, £9.99, Boots
Apply this lightweight serum post wash to help to hydrate, reduce frizz and brittleness to improve shine, whilst helping to protect hair from damage caused by environmental pollution.
Save when you shop with these Boots discount codes.
Davines
Davines Replumping Hair Filler Superactive Leave-In Treatment, £22.25, Beauty Bay
Apply a generous amount to towel dried hair and comb through for long lasting anti-humidity benefits.
Save when you shop with these Beauty Bay discount codes.
Coco & Eve
Coco & Eve Miracle Hair Elixir, £28.90, Cult Beauty
Alongside hyaluronic acid, this hair serum also contains prickly pear, mangosteen, papaya and raw and virgin coconut oil for hydration and nourishment.
Save when you shop with these Cult Beauty discount codes.
The Ordinary
The Ordinary Hair Care Natural Moisturising Factor And HA, £10.90, Cult Beauty
This clever formula brings all the benefits of a hydrating and balancing skincare serum to the scalp, offering hyaluronic acid, multiple amino acids, fatty acids and ceramides.
Save when you shop with these Cult Beauty discount codes.
Dr Barbara Sturm
Dr Barbara Sturm Balancing Scalp Serum, £80, Cult Beauty
Alongside hyaluronic acid, this treatment combines brown and green algae, hyaluronic acid, purslane extract, Japanese camellia and lavender to ease irritation and reduce redness making it the perfect solution for itchy scalps.
Save when you shop with these Cult Beauty discount codes.
Briogeo
Briogeo Scalp Revival Scalp Mask, £30, Cult Beauty
This cooling and invigorating mask will detox the scalp while simultaneously reducing itching and soothing irritation.
Save when you shop with these Cult Beauty discount codes.
