How to use glycerin for skin, according to dermatologists

Here’s everything you need to know about the hero ingredient…

“Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a naturally occurring hydrator found in lipid (fat) form,” explains Dr Ifeoma Ejikeme, CeraVe Consultant Doctor. Completely colourless and odourless, the thick liquid can be found in many of our go-to water-based skincare products – from cleansers and creams to serums and lotions.

Like hyaluronic acid, glycerin is a humectant – meaning “it’s able to take and hold moisture from the environment and draw it into the skin when applied,” says Dr Yannis Alexandrides, Founder Of 111SKIN and Head of Surgical Practice at 111 Harley St. “This works because the molecules of glycerin attract and form molecular bonds with the H2O (water) molecules.”

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Hailed by dermatologists as a hydrating hero, glycerin helps moisturise the skin for a plumper, healthier and more radiant complexion. “Glycerin very much acts as the natural moisturising factor of the skin,” agrees Dr Ejikeme, who adds that this ingredient has several other skin benefits, too.

"Glycerin is also an emollient," says Dr Alexandrides, “meaning it’s able to form a protective layer on the skin, retaining moisture that’s been drawn in, resulting in softer, smoother skin.”

Skincare products containing glycerin have been found to help defend against dryness caused by environmental aggressors like pollution. “These products help the skin retain moisture long after they’re applied,” adds Dr Alexandrides.

Glycerin is a skin-friendly ingredient that’s suitable for all skin types and, as Dr Alexandrides notes, can even help soothe inflammatory skin conditions like eczema and psoriasis.

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Both humectants, glycerin and hyaluronic acid work in a similar way – by attracting and holding water. However, they’re not exactly the same. “The biggest difference between the two is molecule size,” points out Dr Ejikeme. Glycerin’s low molecular weight means it can penetrate deeper into the skin and is more easily absorbed than hyaluronic acid.

“It also has the added benefit of being better at increasing skin’s overall hydration levels, something which – over time – decreases water loss,” adds Dr Ejikeme. So, while both ingredients can help hydrate skin, glycerin works at a deeper level.

Another differentiating factor is cost. As Dr Ejikeme muses, “glycerin is less expensive than hyaluronic acid, but we rarely hear about it because hyaluronic acid is a ‘trending’ ingredient.” Hyaluronic acid is also thinner in consistency and will often be combined with other occlusive ingredients to really lock in moisture.

While glycerin is non-irritating, there is some concern that this ingredient can exacerbate dryness when there isn’t enough humidity in the air. “When the air is very dry, humectants draw moisture from the deeper layers of the skin – leaving it more dehydrated,” explains Dr Alexandrides.

This is, thankfully, only a problem with pure glycerin (100%). Most over-the-counter skincare products containing glycerin will be formulated with concentrations of 5% or less and will be laced with other hydrating and skin-soothing ingredients, too.

Available in serums, cleansers, moisturisers and more – glycerin can be found in most skincare products. Where you won’t find it is in oil-based formulations (these typically use silicones instead).