How to get rid of blackheads correctly, according to the derms

PaulMaguire

Why do we get so many blackheads?

If you're more prone to blackheads or you find that you've suddenly had an influx, there could be a few reasons why.

As previously mentioned, “your skin naturally produces oil, known as sebum, which keeps it moisturised. However, overactive sebaceous glands can produce too much oil, increasing the likelihood of clogged pores,” says Dr Kemi.

Similarly, “your skin is constantly renewing itself, shedding old skin cells to make way for new ones. If these dead cells don't slough off properly, they can accumulate and contribute to clogged pores,” Dr Kemi explains.

There's a reason blackheads can take off in puberty or during certain times of the month. “Fluctuations in hormones, particularly androgens [sex hormones], can increase oil production," says Dr Kemi. "This is why teenagers and women are often more prone to blackheads, especially during menstruation, pregnancy, or when using certain types of birth control,” she adds.

Physical and mental factors can play into the state of our skin. For instance, “diet, stress, humidity, and pollution can all play a role. Sweat can also mix with the oils and skin cells, making the situation stickier, quite literally,” says Dr Kemi.

Then there's our own active role in the situation – particularly if we're experimenting with our skincare routine. “Using the wrong skincare products can exacerbate the problem. Heavy, comedogenic (pore-clogging) creams or not properly cleansing the skin can lead to more blackheads,” confirms Dr Kemi.

How do I remove my blackheads?

If you really want to beat the blackheads, have your dermatologist or medical professional use a comedone extractor (if you've ever spent hours transfixed by Dr Pimple Popper's videos, you'll know what we're talking about here). These extractors use small metal loops on the end of a stick to add pressure around the blackhead and push the debris out.

The difference between them and you, is they know the best techniques to lift the blackhead away without causing scarring or damage to the surrounding skin. Often they'll steam your skin first to loosen things up. And, if using their fingers, they use a rolling method with the pad of their fingers to ease the blackhead out gently. Nails should never be used for squeezing.

The pros are in consensus – they don't advocate you squeezing blackheads yourself, as you can actually risk pushing the blackhead deeper into the skin. “When trying to remove blackheads, it's crucial not to squeeze or pick at them aggressively as this can lead to scarring or infection,” warns Dr Kemi. “Instead, opt for a gentle approach and your GP or dermatologist for prescription strength treatments,” she says. Aesthetic medical practitioner, Dr Bhavjit Kaur, notes: "a consistent skincare routine [more on that below] and pore strips in moderation can remove them.”

How to prevent blackheads

The best way to prevent blackheads is to prevent the follicles from becoming blocked in the first place. For this, exfoliating is key as it removes dirt, grime, excess sebum and dead skin cells before they have a chance to settle in follicles. "Exfoliation removes that upper layer of dead skin cells. So effectively, you're preventing everything including old skin cells, dirt and makeup, from getting blocked inside that top layer of pores," says Dr Anjali.

Just be careful not to over exfoliate. “Don't be fooled into thinking that exfoliating your skin several times a week will make it better, quicker - you don't want to over stimulate your skin or over sensitise it as this will be counter productive,” says Tracey Smith, facialist and founder of Ashmira Botanica skincare. If your skin tends to be more sensitive, dry or reactive ease in by exfoliating just once a week, and increase frequency depending on how your skin responds.

“My favourite way to treat blackheads is with salicylic acid,” says Dr Bhavjit Kaur. “It's a BHA (beta hydroxy acid) and the only acid that is oil soluble. It works its way into the pores and breaks up the dead trapped cells and excess sebum – and when used consistently, it has fabulous results in less than two weeks.”

"AHAs (alpha-hydroxy-acids) are really good for treating blackheads – look for glycolic acids and lactic acids," says Dr Anjali. AHAs work to promote skin shedding and exfoliation (much like salicylic), polishing away dead skin on the surface level. Lactic acid, in particular, is one of the most gentle chemical exfoliators since it rehydrates as it goes. So if you're skin is ultra sensitive, it may be a better option. Or, find a cleanser that blends both salicylic acid and lactic acid, like the Sarah Chapman Skinesis Rapid Radiance Cleanse.

Neither an AHA or a BHA (just to confuse things), azelaic acid works in a similar way to AHAs by penetrating the skin and breaking up the contents of clogged pores but is more suitable for those with extremely sensitive skin says Dr Bhavjit. “It also kills the bacteria known as P.acnes which is responsible for inflammation and pus formation in acne,” she says.

If you thought retinol was only good on wrinkles, it's ability to speed up cell renewal makes it a hero ingredient for unclogging pores. It helps to un-stick skin cells so that they can lift away easily without becoming blocked. "Topical retinoids can increase skin cell turnover, preventing
clogged pores," confirms Dr Kemi. “They may also help to reduce oil production with long-term use,” she adds. Just be aware that retinol can take skin a minute to get used to, so introduce it slowly and it's best to use it on the evenings you've not also used an exfoliator to make sure you don't overdo it.

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La Roche-Posay Retinol B3 Serum

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Will blackheads go away naturally?

Some will if they're just surface level, but others are likely to be resolved on their own as they're so deeply entrenched in the skin. “Skincare practices can have a big impact on the duration of a blackhead. General cleanliness, decreasing the level of sebum on the skin, using effective comedolytic skincare products can minimise the chances of blackhead formation and aid in getting rid of existing blackheads,” explains Dr Bhavjit.

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Best skincare regime to follow for blackheads

"There are loads of ways you can get rid of blackheads, however the underlying problem is the excess oil that is being produced," says Dr Anjali. "So whatever treatments you do, blackheads will always naturally reform every 20 to 40 days." It means consistency is key to keeping on top of the problem and no single treatment can see them off forever. As mentioned, make exfoliating a part of your regular routine (everyone's skin is different, but once or twice a week is a good place to start, then build it up more regularly from there if your skin feels comfortable).

It's also a good idea to put your feet up and use a face mask once a week. Look for ingredients such as zinc oxide (which soothes), sulphur (which is antiseptic and kills bacteria) and charcoal (which draws out bacteria). “Using something like a clay mask once a week will draw out impurities from the skin and rid excess oil as well as brightening the skin and make it look much fresher. This is also a good idea if you have oily, sallow skin with blackheads as it can often look quite dull,” explains Tracey.

She also points out that the moisturising step shouldn't be skipped either. “It might seem counterintuitive but moisturising is very important - if you don't do it your skin will start to produce more oil to moisturise itself, starting a vicious circle.”

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The blackhead-busting foods to include in your diet

It's no secret that what's happening in your body can play out on your skin. Therefore it doesn't hurt to opt for anti-inflammatory foods which have a knock on effect on curbing excess oil, whiteheads and clogged pores.

Controlling your blood sugar and insulin levels can help, so try avoiding sugary, starchy foods that can trigger problem skin. And cold water fish-like wild salmon, sardines, herring and anchovies (which are all high in Omega-3 essential fatty acids), act as natural anti-inflammatories and offer great benefits to the health and appearance of your skin. They aid in the reduction of stress chemicals such as cortisol, which can worsen acne and its accompanying signs and symptoms.

Likewise, eating foods that are rich in Vitamin B2 will help to reduce stress – try spinach, almonds, eggs and mushrooms.

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