Colour Works For Work
Yes, really. Natural might be nice, but brights are way more fun, says Alessandra Steinherr.
Brightly coloured make-up in the office? NO WAY. Maybe a vibrant lip with a bare face, but blue eye make-up? Of course, every work environment is different and it's about adapting the look to yours - but while dress codes have certainly evolved from the power-suit era, day make-up has remained resolutely in a murky palette of nude lips and brown eyeliner. But you can break out of Blandsville without looking insane - start with a subtle navy liner along the upper lashline, or an ocean blue nail, and soon you'll want to take the plunge into full-on deep blue.
Photographs by Chris Craymer
Chris CraymerBaby Blue
With such a pretty colour on eyes, go for “a bare-ish face, concealer and very light powder,” says make-up artist Fiona Stiles, who created the looks on these pages. “Blend Colour Tattoo in Turquoise Forever [£4.99 Maybelline] all over the lid, then layer Eye Shadow in Poppy [£12 stila.co.uk] on top. Using a smaller brush, sweep Sheer Satin Eyeshadow in Caribbean [£10.25 Daniel Sandler] in the crease. I curled lashes and applied a coat of black mascara to the top lashes only.” For a really fresh look, add a baby-pink cream blush. “You can use your finger on a small domed brush.” A mauve-y pink lip is a fun contrast to the turquoise eye and keeps the look low key. We used Velvet Matte Lip Pencil in Sex Machine £17.50 narscosmetics.co.uk
DIAL IT DOWN Groom brows and keep colour off browbones for a subtle look.
DIAL IT UP Blend the shadow all around the eyes and add black liquid liner for definition.
Chris CraymerSmoky Navy
“The great thing about a navy eye is that it’s strong but still has a lot of life, and I love the way the product reflects light,” says Fiona. “This look calls for flawless skin, so I went for more coverage. It plays well with the strong eye, nude lip and contoured cheek.” Apply foundation with a brush and blend with a Beauty Blender Pure Sponge £16 cultbeauty.co.uk. “After powdering lightly, I contoured the cheeks with Diorskin Nude Tan 02 [£37 dior.com].”
For the eyes, use a cream base first to help the shadow adhere to the lid. Press Caviar Stick Eye Colour in Sapphire £20.50 Laura Mercier onto lids with your finger, then sweep on the powder colour (try Pro Longwear Eye Shadow in Thru The Night £16.50 maccosmetics.co.uk.) “I took the colour into the inner corner so it circles the entire eye.” Lots of mascara on top and bottom gives a sexy rock ‘n’ roll vibe, then brush brows up for a sporty look. The cool-toned lip (Lipmix in Mid-tone Nude £13 MAC Pro) complements rather than competes, and drives the focus to the eyes.
DIAL IT DOWNSoften the eyes by using just the powder shadow as a sheer wash, and mascara on top lashes only.
DIAL IT UP Add silvery shadow to the inner corners to make eyes pop. TryTrio Smokey Eye in Bleu Nuit £7.99 Bourjois.
Chris CraymerMake It Glitter
“Clean, luminous skin and finished brows paired with a very bronzed cheek are the perfect setting for a sparkly blue eye,” says Fiona. Use a matte pencil to draw on the shape - we used Chromographic Pencil in Hi-Def Cyan £14 maccosmetics.co.uk. When you have the shape you want, use a small flat brush to apply the glitter ( we like Reflects Glitter in Reflects Aquatic £16.50 maccosmetics.co.uk). “In order to prevent getting glitter all over your face, use a fluffy powder brush to deposit a healthy amount of loose powder under the eyes. This will collect the excess glitter as it falls. Then whisk it away with the brush when you’re done,” advises Fiona.
DIAL IT DOWN Scale back on the bronzer and team with sheer pink nails.
DIAL IT UP Channel the cute look from the Anna Sui catwalk show and draw a blue dot just under the middle of your lower lashline.
Chris CraymerPimped-Up Lashes
“This is a modern approach to colour, where the blue mascara acts as an accent or partner in crime with the red lip,” says Fiona. Keep the lids bare and the brows strong, as a counterpoint to the lip. “Curl your lashes really well, because lots of mascara can weigh down lashes and you want to keep the eyes open-looking.” For a statement lash, take a cerulean blue mascara such as Luxurious Mascara For A False Lash Effect in Extreme Blue £23 yslbeauty.co.uk and do at least three coats, top and bottom. “I went with a bold matte red lip [Lipmix in Red £13 MAC Pro] and painted it on with a brush, sans liner. Don’t be afraid to go the edge of the lip!” And if you make any mistakes use concealer to clean up the edges.
DIAL IT DOWN Copy the Stella McCartney show and team with glowy skin and no lips.
DIAL IT UP Add gloss over lips for a high-wattage pout.
Chris CraymerLine Interrupted
“This is a twist on the smokey eye. Leaving the space under the iris bare creates the illusion of a bigger eye,” explains Fiona. It’s still impactful but has less drama. Take a pencil (try Scandaleyes in Bright Blue £3.99 Rimmel) and draw two Vs, one on the inner corner of the eye and one on the outer corner of the eye, being sure to stop short about a third of the way in on both sides. “I didn’t use mascara as I wanted to really exaggerate the space, but if you do use mascara the look will be the same, just more wearable,” says Fiona. Pat a semi-matte peach on lips - we like Lip Tar in Kava Kava£11.50 Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics. “Peach and blue look wonderful together - the peach warms up your skin.”
DIAL IT DOWN Don’t darken the brows - a softer hue will look tamer.
DIAL IT UPTeam with a magenta lip or nail for full-on glamour.
Styled by: Alessandra Steinherr
Hair: Ted Gibson at Jed Root
Make-up: Fiona Stiles at The Wall Group
Manicure: Jackie Saulsbery at Kramer+Kramer
Model: Iulia Cirstea at Elite
Still lifes: Benoit Audureau
