The AW13 Backstage Beauty Reporter – London
GLAMOUR's Junior Beauty Writer Sarah Jossel goes backstage at London Fashion Week AW13 to bring you all the latest hair and beauty trends, hot off the catwalk.
Rex Features#LFW Begins
From plum pouts and 3D cat-eyes to upside down fish-tail braids and flowing, undone hair; NYFW AW13 raised the beauty bar and now London, Milan and Paris have a lot to live up to.
What do we think? Perhaps we're biased as we have a whole lot of love for London and our home talents; but they never fail to disappoint and we can't wait for the fun to begin.
Stay tuned for all the LFW beauty buzz and everything you don't see on the catwalk.
Until then,
Your beauty reporter x
#beautyreporter
Follow Sarah on:
Twitter: @SarahJossel/@GlamourMagUK
Instagram: Sarahjossel/ GlamourUK
Welcome to LFW AW13. Let the (beauty) games begin.
Day 1 - DAKS
It's a forest green nail today at Daks.
"I wanted a chic, grown-up feel this season," says Jenny Longworth for Revlon.
"Green and other vivid autumnal colours run through the collection; plus, I love that the shade is so quintessentially British."
Well Miss Longworth, we love it so much we're green with envy.
New season idea...
Match your nail shades to your wardrobe!
What's this gorgeous green we're raving about? Revlon nail polish in Jungle (£6.49).
"She's letting her hair down this season," says hairstylist Luke Hersheson.
"Last season the Daks girl rocked blunt, healthy ponytails; she still has that clean-cut feel but this time her hair is down."
Luke went on to say that healthy hair is only achievable if you have haircuts every two months - and here's a model having her eight week trim.
And now swiftly onto make up; before Luke tells us off for our split ends!
"Her makeup should look like it's from the night before," says makeup artist Hiromi Ueda.
"While eyes and lips have that lived-in feel; skin is ultra fresh and dewy."
Top tip: Don't solely rely on makeup for glowing skin. As well as spritzing on Dermalogica Multi Active Toner (25.60), Hiromi used massage techniques to get the blood flowing in their cheeks.
Day 1 - Clements Ribeiro
Working the Frow.
If you're in the front row at fashion shows you're important; that goes without saying. You're so VIP, you even get a thank you for being present. At Clements it's a Stila makeup goody bag.
One day...
Punk Perfect
"There's a punk theme running through the collection - especially in the shoes," says Stila's Sarah Lucero.
"I'm using Stila Pure Metal Foil Finish in Vintage Black Gold (out Summer 2013) as a black liner and then randomly pressing Stila Pure Metal Foil Finish in Copper Shine onto the lids for a deconstructed, sheeny finish."
Get a grip at Clements...
"There are 17 girls and I'm using about 20 pins per girl," says hair guru Sam McKnight. "So that's 340 Kirby grips for one show." No. Big. Deal.
The good news is, it doesn't look like they'll be running out any time soon.
We saw her at endless shows in New York and now Dutch beauty Josephine Skriver has graced us with her presence at LFW. Welcome!
And may we just say you do the punk thing so well.
Day 1 - John Rocha
A Gothic Romance
"This is John’s type of girl," says makeup artist Sam Bryant.
"Taupe, pinks and lilac in the eye area; foundation on the lips and chiselled cheekbones."
"The collection is ultra feminine so I've gone for the opposite," says James Pecis for Bumble and Bumble.
"I'm adding extensions for some serious extra length and then tying lots of mini ponytails; and not to forget I am spraying a LOT of Bumble Surf Spray (£20.50).”
Not sure if we could do it ourselves but we love it!
We spotted Bumble and Bumble Styling Spray (£11) swimming in an array of never ending hair extensions.
Only in beauty!
I'm gonna let it shine...
"My top three products to shimmer, glisten and glow are Becca Shimmering Skin Perfector in Pearl (£33),
Fardel White Powder and Screenface Illuminating Stick (£14.95)" says Sam Bryant.
Top tip: To avoid looking like a glitter ball, always apply highlighter in daylight.
Day 1 - Julien Macdonald
"These are all the different nail looks we tried for the show," says L'Oreal Paris nail expert Liza Smith. "And guess what we ended up with? A L'Oreal Colour Riche Nail Top Coat called Diamond Lurex. (£4.99)"
Less is more, right?
The amazing Val Garland raving about the L'Oreal Paris Infallible Eyeliner in Grey Obsession (£5.19).
A brush with fate
According to Val Garland, you can never have too many brushes.
"It’s a ponytail with a grunge twist," says L'Oreal Paris hair expert Martin Cullen.
"Completely opposite to the ultra glam clothes; we're doing a simple, messy, lived-in style." In the line up, they're pulling out random strands of hair.
After today at LFW, it appears that this season you should go grunge or go home.
Day 1 - Moschino Cheap and Chic
Pink, punk, pretty - the 3 P's to sum up the show. "The hair today is punk couture," says hair guru Sam McKnight. "As in dressed up punks." (we like what you've done there Sam!)
"Hair is being tied up and we're using black pins even on the blondes" adds Sam.
Day 2 - Preen
LFW Trend alert: Punk and Grunge.
As seen at: Todd Lynn, Moschino Cheap and Chic, Clements Ribeiro and Julien MacDonald.
A 6 A.M alarm on a Sunday seems so wrong, but if it means seeing the amazing Val Garland we're there. That's what coffee's there for, right?
So, on the 33rd floor of Heron Tower Val is going for a punk vibe. "Are you a top or bottom girl," says Val for Sunday Riley. "We're drawing ultra thin diagonal lines either above or below their eyes. So think of the girls as delicate punks."
Can you tell we're a having a slight Val affair this season?
We highly recommend you follow her for all beauty Val-idations.
Twitter:@TheValGarland
Instagram:@thevalgarland
Day 2 - Holly Fulton
"This look is not effortless, but I want it to look like it took no effort," says MAC make-up artist Andrew Gallimore. "We've gone all-out 90's grunge; I'm using MAC Pro Longwear lip pencil in High Energy (limited edition), MAC lip pencil in Vino (£11.50) and then MAC Pro Pigment in Basic Red.”
You're not seeing things; Andrew really did create gaps in the models front teeth for a Georgia Jagger, ultra cool, edgy feel.
Day 2 - Vivienne Westwood Red Label
"A little bit wild, a little bit mad"
That's how Val Garland introduced the Westwood look. We're using primary colours and drawing on their faces like we would draw on a piece of paper; we want them to look like illustrations.
Hair was tonged and clipped up until right before the show. The Toni & Guy stylists then brushed locks out into voluminous blowdries.
Backstage buzz: the hair team had to find 2000 hair clips on the morning of the show. No pressure...
Nail art attack
Nude nails are huge; there's no denying it. But every time we need a dose of talon fun we know we can rely on the fabulous Marian Newman; and she definitely didn't disappoint at Westwood.
"Its a random colourful, playful collection, so that's what we've done with the nails."
Marian was using Nail Rock nails in 3 different shades. She then air brushed the fingers to look like the girls had stuck their hands in paint pots - we told you it’s an art attack.
I loved it so much I had a 'runway to real life' moment and tried out the look myself.
Day 2 - Mulberry
The Mulberry Girl...
"...Is way more polished this season," says Mathias van Hooff for L'Oreal Paris. “I'm sweeping on L’Oreal Paris Infallible Eye Liner in Chocolate Addict (£5.19) eye pencil chocolate addiction and then layering it with a L’Oreal Paris Colour Riche Quad in Marron Glacé (£7.99) for a smokey, seventies eye."
All the girls had a tiny bit of blush and then Mathias introduced us to a new lip gloss we think you may like...
Click to see!
New Product Alert!
L’Oreal Paris Glam Shine Stain Splash in Princess. (£7.99)
How amazing is this statement shade? Plus, we can't lie; we love that the shade is called Princess.
"Undone, great hair" says hair guru Sam McKnight about the look at Mulberry."Emma Hill, Creative Director always likes to have a hair element but this season she wanted something a bit different."
Sam was tucking all the girls’ hair into collars. "Even if they're wearing dresses, their hair is tucked in," he adds.
We spotted a Batiste Dry Shampoo (£4.99) backstage which is one of our must-have hair products - we're glad to see the pro's love it too!
Meet Max the Mulberry poodle. We snapped him while he was in hair and make-up and wished him good luck for his big catwalk appearance.
Click here to see Max on the catwalk!
Day 2 - Mark Fast
Birds Flying High
"There are beautiful feathers in Mark’s new collection which made me think of a graceful bird," says Shinobu for Shu Uemura. "I'm lining eyes with Shu Uemura's Drawing Pencil in Metallic Blue (£16). I thought about using black but this navy shade gives a softness to the look.”
Face Chart
Shinobu points out the shape of the liner. "We've winged it out to elongate the eyes and give a bird-like effect," she adds.
New Product Alert: Illuminating Light Bulb Foundation
... The only sample in the world is in a lab bottle so we can't show you just yet but it will be released in August 2013!
"It gives the most amazing coverage," says Shinobu. "But it's not heavy. The best way to describe it is a full coverage foundation in a light formula."
"For an all over polished finish I smoothed on Shu Uemura’s new UVUB PROEraser Mousse (released April 2013). It’s a must-have product for glossy skin," says Shinobu.
Day 2 -Temperley London
The Temperley London look from every angle; in other words 360 degrees of pure prettiness.
"Today’s Temperley look is inspired by Hitchcock" says Val. (Yes Val was wonder woman today and managed to speed around London to goodness knows how many shows!) "We're doing a liner on the eye, but we want it to look modern so we're drawing on a bold, strong line." Val goes on to say "we're adding lashings of mascara and patting on a beige lip with L’Oreal Paris Rouge Caresse Lipstick in 501 (£8.19) and L’Oreal Paris Contour Parfiat Lip Liner in Honey (£4.39).
Val’s top tip: Use an angled brush to apply eye liner. My favourite is the Benefit Hard Angle brush (£13.95).
Fake Model vs. Real Model
Meet hairstylist Malcolm Edwards’ doll. She always hangs out backstage and Malcolm’s team compare their model’s hair to the doll’s perfect style. Only the best is good enough if you're working for Malcolm.
Out Of the Blue
"Jourdan over here, Jourdan walk towards us," just your average backstage when model of the moment Jourdan Dunn is walking in the show.
But what caught our eye? The amazing azure blue eye makeup. "I chose blue as it’s a colour that runs through the collection," says Topshop’s makeup artist Hannah Murray.
She goes on to tell us that there was a bright red lip until this morning’s run through. Murray takes a huge deep breath and heads to her work station.
Keep calm and carry on; but I guess that's easy for us to say!
As for the uber bright shiny red polish? It’s Topshop Nails in Lacquered (£5).
Here's Miss Dunn dressed and ready for her run through.
Hannah Murray showing us the ultra soft texture of the Topshop eyeshadow
The gorgeous Lettie from Hannah Murray's team who we spy every season.
And me trying out the Topshop nail; another runway to real life moment!
Make-up Done, Hair Done, Jourdan Dunn
"The Topshop girl is quintessentially British" says Anthony Turner for L’Oreal Professionnel. "She's the same girl as last season but a bit more 'bed head'."
"At the end I’m brushing hair out with a Mason and Pearson brush (£86.75) for a fluffy texture," he adds. "I want it to look like it was once a beehive but she's slept on it.
We've spotted L’Oreal Professionnel Fresh Dust (£9.90) in Anthony’s hand every show this season, so no surprise he was sprinkling it on as the final step.
Day 2 - Matthew Williamson
Hey look, it's Lisa!
The Matthew Williamson backstage area is tiny. It’s over-crowded with hair, make-up and nail teams; but we managed to find the gorgeous Lisa Eldridge serenely working away on Cara Delevingne in her corner.
"There are endless colours in the clothes, so from the neck up I wanted the opposite," says Lisa. "We're simply shading their faces to get that no make-up natural beauty look."
The key Benefit products used at the Matthew Williamson show were:
Hello Flawless Oxygen Wow foundation (£25.50)
Fakeup concelar (£18.50)
Sun Beam highlighter (£19.50)
Peek-a-Bright-Eyes (£24.50)
Smokin’ Eyes Kit (£28.50)
For hair, Toni & Guy’s Cos Sakkas created a beachy texture with Toni & Guy Casual Sea Salt Texturising Spray (£7.19). He plaited the girls hair at the nape of the neck and "each girl has one silver Kirby grip in their hair where it suits them best," says Cos. Nice touch!
Day 2 - Richard Nicoll
"The girls are sporty punks today" says the amazing Sharon Dowsett for Maybelline. "We're smudging the girls’ eye make-up for that lived in, punk feel. Think Debbie Harry rock ‘n’ roll style."
Sharon’s key products:
Maybelline Master Smoky eye pencil in black (£5.99)
Maybelline Silk Glam Eye Studio Quad in Blue Drama (£7.99)
And for the hair, Shon from L’Oreal Paris is slicking hair back with L’Oreal Studio Architect Styling Wax (£3.61) "The product is a very hard texture though, so I'm melting it with a hairdryer and then smoothing through hair."
"The collection has two textures - matte and shiny, so I've gone for a wet and dry multi-texture in the hair," adds Shon.
Day 3 - Monday Fun Day
Pimp My Ride
Our job is to make sure we get to every show on time so that we can bring you all the beauty news from backstage. So when we were offered our very own taxi for the day; we won't lie... we basically did a victory dance out of excitement.
Thanks to Essie we got to every show on time, and in style. Who knew Mondays could be so fun.
Day 3 - Antonio Berardi
"This girl is super polished," explains Revlon’s Gucci Westman. "For a luminous finish I'm using Revlon Nearly Naked foundation (£8.99) and I’m massaging in Dr Hauschka oil (£24.25). I'm hugging the lashline with an eye pencil in white for an opening effect; brows are brushed up and the top lids are being coated in Revlon 3D Volume mascara (£10.99)."
And onto the perfect pout; "I'm mixing Revlon Super Lustrous lipstick in Revlon Red (£7.49) and Revlon Colourburst Lipstick in Coral (£7.99) together to create this vivid hue. I'm then layering Revlon Super Lustrous Lipgloss in Shine City (£6.99) onto the centre of the lips."
Gucci’s top tip: don't apply gloss all over the lip; it looks too vulgar - just dab it on the centre where the light hits.
Mix Masters
To match Gucci’s custom-made lip, nail star Jenny Longworth also had some fun mixing shades. "I've added Revlon Nail Enamel in Revlon Red (£6.49) to Revlon Brilliant Strength Nail Polish in Inflame (£7.99)” says Longworth. "The red is the base and then layer the orange on top."
Day 3 - Michael van der Ham
The Metal Effect
We squeeze into the backstage area, and like kids to candy, our eyes are transfixed to the table filled with shiny, shimmering nails.
After seasons of endless nude nails (not that we don't love a beige talon) we're over the moon to see Michael van der Ham and CND having some nail fun.
The look today is a tarnished, metal effect on an almond shape nail," says CND nail expert Amanda Fontanarossa. "We've designed two looks for the show. One is CND’s colour in Fedora (£14) with gold and copper embellishment. The other look is CND colour in Midnight Swim (£14.95) and Cityscape (£14.85) with silver leaf patterns."
Chic, shiny and easy to wear. We love!
Day 3 - Burberry
"I want you to be able to look at the girls and know they’re wearing make-up but not sure where," says Burberry's key make-up artist Wendy Rowe. "So I'm applying it intelligently."
Wendy worked with gold hues to match the metallic shades dotted through the collection.
The Burberry kit:
Eyes
Multi-Use Kajal Crayon in Poppy Black, Oxblood and Stone (coming Autumn 2013)
Effortless Mascara in Midnight Black (£21.50)
Sheer Eye Shadow in Midnight Black, Porcelain White, Pale Barley and Gold Trench (£22.50)
Lips
Lip Mist in Trench Kiss, Rosewood and Oxblood
Lip Glow in Oxblood and Trench Kiss
Lip Cover in Oxblood
All coming Autumn 2013.
Nails
Nail polish in Stone
Nail Polish in Poppy Black
Nail polish in Oxblood
All coming Autumn 2013.
Spotted: two major models have had two major haircuts.
Karlie’s gone for a cute bob with bangs. She said she loves her new style and finds it really easy to manage.
Edie Campbell (who you may recognise from her GLAMOUR shoot) has not only cut a statement crop; she's also dyed it as close to black as possible."Personally I love it", says Edie. "It's weird; I like to constantly shock myself when it comes to my looks."
The Burberry Dream Team
Meet Wendy, Neil and Trish.
While Wendy was transforming the models into Burberry women - (unlike last season when they were cool, young girls) Neil Moodie was blowdrying hair into smooth, sleek perfection, with a slight bend at the ends.
And as for Miss Trish Lomax? She was painting all the girls nails with Burberry’s Oxtail Nail Polish (coming Autumn 2013). A shade we can't wait to get our hands on!
Day 3 - Osman
Ethereal eyes
After all the punk and grunge we've witnessed backstage, these fairy-like, ethereal beings were just what we wanted to see.
Using Eyeko products, Lisa relied on two products to create this look:
Eyeko’s Metallic Liquid eyeliners (£15, coming July 2013) in Platinum and Rose Gold.
She lined the lashes in both shades and mixed them together to create the perfect shine on cheekbones - genius!
Moodboard to Model
Here's Lisa bringing her creation to life.
And may we just compliment Lisa and her team on their beautifully drawn moodboards!
Day 3 - Giles
Sleepy Hollow
Black Adder meets goth meets Tim Burton. You get what we're trying to say, right?
"We're shading with MAC’s Paint Pot in Constructivist (£14.50) and MAC’s Pro Longwear Paint Pot in Stormy Pink (£14.50)", says make-up artist Lucia Pieroni. "It’s a soft, blown out, gothic eye. I want skin to be ultra luminous and then I'm adding a tiny bit of concealer to the lips to take out any colour."
Great Lengths
And when we say lengths, we mean 24 inch hair to be precise. "But we're adding extensions to make hair longer, not for volume," says hairstylist Paul Hanlon. "We want to create medieval, skinny hair that sits close to the face."
Each girl had the exact same length extensions put in. Hair was then tied into two pigtail plaits; they applied heat to the hair and then when the plaits were pulled out, it had that natural, wispy, kink effect."
Day 4 - Ashish
Can you believe this is our final #LFW show for AW13? And what a season it's been!
The one thing we can say in conclusion? 'Tis the season to rock fabulous nails; and Ashish only proved us right.
"My inspiration is the sparkles in the collection," says Michelle Humphries for Maybelline. "I'm coating nails with 2 layers of Maybelline’s Colour Show Nail Polish in Peach (available in the USA); and then dotting random splodges of nail adhesive. I'm sticking on holographic foil, and pulling it off; which leaves a really cool iridescent effect."
We asked Michelle where she got the uber cool foil from. 'Just a nail shop' was the response we got - this nail queen doesn't kiss and tell.
