As soon as the sun comes out, thoughts immediately turn to swapping a wan winter complexion for a sun-kissed one. What happens when you go for a spray tan can feel daunting to first timers. But here some of the UK's most renowned celebrity tanning pros demystify the whole process and fill you in on anything you need to bear in mind because “the secret to a beautiful, natural-looking spray tan isn’t just the application itself, it’s how you prepare your skin beforehand and care for it afterwards,” says Nicola Matthews, founder of Sienna X.
Before your appointment
- On the day of your appointment, arrive with clean, product-free skin. “Hydrated skin will always tan better, but avoid moisturiser on the day of your appointment so the tanning solution can absorb properly," says Nicola. "Ideally you should arrive without makeup and without deodorant. Both can react with the guide colour in the tanning solution and may cause uneven results, particularly around the hairline or underarms. If you’re coming straight from work, simply remove your makeup beforehand.”
- Bring loose, dark clothing to wear after your appointment. “Tight fabrics like leggings, skinny jeans or tight bras can rub the developing tan and leave marks before it’s fully developed,” Nicola notes. "Comfortable pieces like oversized shirts, joggers and slip-on shoes work best. If you’re tanning in the evening and sleeping in your tan overnight, loose cotton pyjamas help minimise friction while the colour develops. Wear cotton gloves (I use loose socks) or you may wake up with tanned palms.”
- Plan hair removal in advance “and time your tan accordingly, around 24 hours after shaving or two days after waxing,” says James Harknett, who is known for his bespoke airbrush tanning technique at London's Away Spa and whose clients include Daisy Edgar-Jones.
- Avoid using actives in your skincare routine three days before your tan. “Self-tan works by reacting with amino acids in the outermost layer of the skin, and anything that accelerates skin cell turnover or exfoliates the surface can affect how the colour develops or how long it lasts," says James. "So I would recommend stopping the use of any retinoids, AHAs like glycolic acid, BHAs [think salicylic acid] and any form of liquid exfoliators.”
- Exfoliate your whole body the night before a spray tan (at least 8 hours). Use an oil-free body scrub such as Bondi Sands Coconut and Sea Salt Body Scrub, especially if you still have traces of old self-tan. “Exfoliating immediately before a spray tan is not necessarily bad, but self-tans love skin with a little bit of natural moisture and a neutral PH level so that the tan can develop to its fullest,” says Michaella Bolder, celebrity tanner and facialist. “Plus, if the skin is too smooth you may see the spray tan run slightly on the body.”
What happens when you go for a spray tan
Step 1: First, there's a consultation where you're asked about the result you'd like to achieve and what the tan is for if it's a special event. “Your therapist will carry out a short consultation, asking about your natural skin tone, the depth of colour you’d like and whether you have an upcoming event,” says Nicola. For example, if you're jetting off on a two-week holiday, you may opt for a deeper tan so the tan lasts longer.
The consultation may take a little longer and be more in-depth if you're having a bespoke tan. “I have a wardrobe of colour – more than 30 different shades and formulas – and much like a makeup artist matching foundation, I select the formula that best suits each client’s skin tone and type, as different tanning solutions develop differently on different skin,” says James.
Step 2: You're left to get undressed in private while the therapist waits for you outside the room. “Whatever you wear will leave tan lines," says Michaella. “So, if you want tan lines – some people ask for them – bring a bikini. Small disposable black g-strings are always provided. You can always go commando, which is most popular so there are zero tan lines.” You may also be given a hair net and remember to remove any jewellery.
Step 3: Once prepped, you step into the tanning booth or tent. “You’ll be guided through a quick prep stage and a series of simple positions," Nicola explains. These include when to raise your arms, bend your knees or face your palms towards the floor.
Step 4: The tanning solution is dispersed onto the skin via a spray gun in light passes. Every therapist has their own tanning technique but, typically, they work from top to toe, and front to back, directing the nozzle towards the face first. This is nothing to worry about – simply take a deep breath and keep your eyes and mouth closed. The whole process only takes between 10-15 minutes. “Spray tans only last the longest if you have been sprayed with multiple light layers vs one or two heavy coats – think how your nails are painted at a nail salon, lots of light layers,” says Michaella.
Step 5: Your therapist checks that your skin is dry. This takes a few minutes but James says he will also gently dry the skin with a Dyson hair dryer. You're then free to get dressed. "A setting powder or spray can be used if it’s a hot day or you have any areas you know get sweaty,” says Michaella.
After your spray tan appointment
A spray tan typically lasts 5-7 days with the right aftercare but what you can expect immediately after your treatment depends on the formula – whether it's an express tan or regular developing tan formula.
“Immediately after your spray tan you’ll see a light glow from the guide colour, which helps your therapist ensure even coverage,” says Nicola. “The real tan develops underneath over the next few hours.” So don't panic if the guide colour looks darker than the tan shade you had opted for.
In general, it’s best to keep activity to a minimum during this time. “Try to stay cool and dry, and avoid anything that might get the skin wet until it’s time to rinse the tan off,” says James. Then after 8 hours you can shower (avoid hot baths). “Start by rinsing with lukewarm water only – avoid using shower gel during the first rinse – and gently pat the skin dry afterwards,” says Nicola. "Wait until the water runs clear of the guide colour, then pat dry.”
How to make your spray tan last longer
Press pause on exercising before a big occasion like a wedding. "Sweat and friction from tight workout gear can cause the tan to rub off and create patchiness,” says James, who also recommends avoiding saunas until after the event.
Moisturise daily but steer clear of oil-based products. “Oils break down the tan more quickly,” says James. "Instead, opt for water-based moisturisers and keep your skin well hydrated - moisturised skin will help your tan last longer and fade more evenly.”
Use a gradual tan after day 5 to top up your tan if you wish. Michaella is a fan of St Tropez’s Firming Gradual Tan Body Moisturizers for extending the life of your spray tan. "There are two colours: light/medium to make your tan one shade darker or medium/dark if you'd prefer to go two shades deeper."
Invest in a separate gradual tanning mist for the face. “Your face and hands tend to fade more quickly because we wash them more often, so using a light facial tanning mist can help keep your colour looking gorgeous,” says Nicola, who recommends the Sienna X Gradual Self Tan Rose Mist.
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