The DM:
Dear derm,
I admit I haven’t worn SPF as much as I should have and now have sun damaged skin, what can I do to reverse it?
Sally B
The Derm:
Dr Derrick Phillips, Consultant Dermatologist at OneWelbeck.
The Diagnosis:
Dear Sally,
All skin types can be affected by sun damage, but the risk is higher in people with fair skin who are the most sensitive to sun exposure and have the greatest risk of sunburn and developing skin cancer later in life. Darker skin tones, especially brown and black skin are more resilient to UV exposure due to the abundance of melanin however, they are vulnerable to developing hyperpigmentation and uneven skin tone.
There are many symptoms of sun-damaged skin including sunburn, blistering, sunspots, rough patches, fine lines and wrinkles. Broken capillaries or spider veins can also be a sign on fair skin and typically appear as red or purple lines. Dull and lacklustre skin can also be another symptom. Prolonged or excessive sun exposure is also a major risk factor for different types of skin cancer such as basal cell carcinoma, squamous cell carcinoma and melanoma.
Lifestyle factors can also exacerbate sun damage. These include excessive sun exposure especially during peak hours without proper protection (e.g. SPF, hats, UPF clothing and sunglasses). Smoking, excessive alcohol consumption and exposure to environmental pollutants can also negatively impact the skin’s ability to repair itself making it more susceptible to sun damage.
How do you prevent sun damage?
Not applying enough sunscreen is a common problem and one that leaves the skin at risk of sun damage and burning. Sunscreen should be applied every two hours when outside in direct sunshine, and it’s important to cover all areas including ears and feet.
For your face and neck alone, you should use half a teaspoon of SPF which is equivalent to three finger lengths of product. Apply your sunscreen after your usual moisturiser and before your makeup. But then when you’re re-applying it’s fine to apply on top of make-up.
It’s important to check the date on your SPF to make sure it hasn’t expired, as this can also impact its efficacy. And even if sunscreen says it’s waterproof, it still needs to be reapplied after swimming. Sun protection is still important in skin of colour, even though the risk of sunburn is much lower. Formulation is really important as some mineral sunscreens can leave a white cast on dark skin.
In addition to regular and liberal application of a broad-spectrum SPF50, I would also recommend protective clothing and accessories to shield your skin from the harmful effects of the sun. This includes wide-brimmed hats, UPF clothing, and sunglasses. It is also important to stay in the shade between 11am and 3pm on sunny days, or when the UV index is high.
Regular mole checks are also important to allow early detection of abnormal moles and skin growths that may require treatment.
Ingredients to consider
Vitamin C can reverse some of the signs of sun damage such as hyperpigmentation, fine lines and wrinkles by blocking the production of melanin, increasing skin turnover and boosting collagen production.
In addition, vitamin C and E are effective antioxidants and protect the skin from oxidative stress generated from UV rays and environmental pollution.
Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) such as glycolic acid and lactic acid exfoliate the skin, promoting a brighter complexion and reducing the appearance of sunspots.
Niacinamide and azelaic acid can also help to lighten dark spots and even out skin tone.
Derm-recommended treatments
SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic Vitamin C Serum is an excellent choice to reverse the signs of skin ageing. It combines vitamin C, vitamin E and ferulic acid to protect against environmental damage, brighten the complexion and improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
SkinCeuticals Phloretin CF Antioxidant Serum offers similar protective benefits to CE Ferulic but is better suited for oily skin, to reduce pigmentation, even out skin tone and refine skin texture.
Medik8 Crystal Retinal 3 Serum delivers a stabilised form of Retinaldehyde to stimulate collagen production, smooth fine lines and improve the clarity and firmness of the skin over time.
Got a skin question for our derms? Drop us a DM at @glamouruk.
