It's safe to say that 2024 was the year that my skin had a bit of a… meltdown. I've suffered with on-and-off acne and breakouts ever since I hit puberty – but this year, they became much harder to keep under control. At 33, my skin was the worst it had been since my teens and early twenties – I'm talking angry, under-the-skin spots that took weeks to heal up, leaving lasting scars in their wake.
Exasperated, I tried everything to get the breakouts under control – from light therapy to regular facials – but despite getting good results from retinol in the past, I wanted to avoid the ingredient at first.
Don't get me wrong, I've previously found retinol to be a great defence against acne – but there was always a catch. I'd say my skin is pretty hardy, having built up a tolerance to strong acids over my previous years as a beauty editor – but while I don't have rosacea, I am prone to redness, and retinoids would too often leave my skin raw and reactive. Yes, the blemishes were mostly gone, but my complexion underneath was completely unpredictable. Even a hot shower could leave my face irritated and sore, not to mention the perils of central heating or my beloved pilates classes.
So, I tried every other method to tackle my breakouts. I enlisted the help of a facialist, the brilliant Louise Matjaszek of Restore Skin, and started a course of Dermalux light therapy – and also overhauled the rest of my skincare routine. I endeavoured to change my bedding extra regularly and tried to kick my skin-picking habit into touch (which, admittedly, was a big part of the problem). All of these things decidedly helped, and I'll certainly be returning to light therapy to help with my residual scarring, but the dreaded zits kept coming back.
In the end, my big return to retinol was – I'll be honest – a spontaneous move. In fact, I had an unloved bottle of the Skinbetter Science Alpharet Clearing Serum in my skincare cupboard, cast aside in my bid to clear my acne via alternative methods. One evening, after cleansing, I instinctively grabbed it and smoothed a sparing pump on my face – not really knowing what to expect, but keen to try something different.
Those that know anything about retinol will know that it's often a slow process. It's best to build up your tolerance to it by using it sporadically at first, and gradually incorporating it more into your routine. Keen to avoid any reactive side effects, I spent two weeks using it just two evenings a week, before upping my dose to every other night, and eventually every night. The results crept up on me just like my newfound loyal usage.
Gradually, I noticed that my spots were clearing – shrinking, I guess – and my skin was generally looking less red and angry. But one thing I wasn't expecting? The glow. I had pretty much got used to the dull texture of my skin, and forgotten that it's possible to look, er, alive (I joke) – but in all seriousness, I never thought I'd be someone who looks in the mirror and sees fresh, glowing skin.
After around four weeks of use, my complexion looked, dare I say it… completely refreshed. Granted, my scarring is still there – and with prolonged use I hope I'll see even better results – but I can't deny that I'm seriously impressed. Best of all, I think, is the fact that I've had no reactions or sensitivity at all. Nada.
So what's the secret, I hear you ask? Have I stumbled across a magic serum?
I'd heard some hype about Skinbetter Science's range of ‘medical-grade’ retinoids via TikTok, where I was flooded with before-and-afters showing amazing skin-clearing results. But one of the brand's unique claims is that its retinol products are extra tolerable for sensitive skins – by combining cell renewing vitamin A with gentle AHA lactic acid in a patented formula.
I'm no scientist, so I enlist the help of aesthetic specialist Dr Sophie Shotter, who loves the product herself, to explain my miracle results. She tells me: “AlphaRet is a retinoid double – conjugated with an AHA. This ensures slow release of the active ingredients so that you are far less likely to get irritation. I find it a great option for almost all skins, even those that haven’t tolerated a retinoid in the past.”
Secretly 32, looking 25.
Skinbetter Science is a clinic-only brand, so my bottle was recommended via GetHarley, a professional skincare consultation platform. So reader, I must temper this review by saying that you should only try this product after consulting with a professional, and building up your usage as previously described. While it claims to be gentle, you should always be careful when incorporating a new retinoid into your routine. And it goes without saying that I always wear factor 50 SPF when using retinol (and even if I'm not, actually) – my ride-or-die for acne-prone skin is Heliocare's Oil-Free Gel, which has never done me dirty.
Another caveat: this stuff is pretty pricey. My first bottle was a press sample, but I've already repurchased another in fear of running out – or rather, my husband has, since it went straight on my Christmas list – and for me, the results are well worth the price. Thankfully, I reckon you can make the 30ml pump last a good few months, and a little goes a long way.
It's also worth noting that consistent use is key. I went on a trip to the Maldives last month, and never use retinol when I'm in hot climates, just in case (I'm very pale and prone to burning). I did notice that I started breaking out again – though the spots weren't as persistent or painful. Since I've been home, I've gradually started up my usage again, and have found that my breakouts are clearing once more.
I'm officially sold – the Skinbetter Science Alpharet Clearing Serum is never leaving my side. I'd be remiss without the other products in my acne-fighting toolkit, too, so here are my ride-or-die picks for clear, fresh skin…
Best blemish-fighting skincare to try
I've tried many cleansers over the years, and honestly, I'd recommend not overthinking it too much – though generally, my spot-prone skin prefers washes or lotions over oily balms. This easygoing cleanser feels lightweight and non-drying, but also leaves me feeling fresh and clean, with no leftover residue.
Most skin experts will recommend that you gently exfoliate your skin in some way while using a retinol, to avoid a build up of flaking skin (since retinoids encourage skin cell turnover). I haven't found this to be a problem with the Skinbetter Science Alpharet serum, though I have been using this glycolic and lactic acid combo from another of my favourite clinical brands, ZO Skin Health, to encourage glow. I apply in the morning, after cleansing. Remember, start gradually – if in doubt, consult a professional before adding a new acid to your routine.
Those prone to irritation will love Caudalie's brightening serum, which helps to lighten acne marks and scarring with a gentle formula. I use this as my moisturising step, too.
My aforementioned holy grail SPF, and the only brand I trust for top-tier sun protection. This oil-free formula is perfect for blemish-prone skins as it's completely non-greasy and non-comedogenic, with super-high protection to boot.
I'm never without pimple patches in my skincare stash these days, and Hero's ‘Invisible’ versions are hands-down my favourites – since they're super slim and hard to detect on the skin. While I do think they help with the healing process, I mainly use spot patches to stop me from premature squeezing and making my breakouts infinitely worse. These are just the ticket.
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