If you’re one to daydream of the mountains no matter the season, then picture this: I spent five glorious days at Schlosshotel Fiss in the off-season (summer/fall), no skis, no snow, just crisp air, gold-tinged trees, and a hotel that feels like it was built for a cosy mountain retreat. It's an escape that blends alpine charm with spa decadence, and it’s the perfect stay for couples, families, or even singles like me!
Pulling up to Schlosshotel Fiss felt like stumbling onto a mountain retreat straight out of a postcard. At 1,438 metres above sea level, the property sits in the heart of the Serfaus–Fiss–Ladis region. This counts as high enough for gorgeous peak views, but low enough to keep things green and open in the warmer months. The hotel’s facade blends alpine-style wood and stone with big windows that hint at the luxury that awaits inside. Even without snow, the slopes and forests wrapped around you like a hug, the air was crisp, and the mountain views truly had green-screen energy; they were that picturesque.
Inside, the hotel is luxurious, yet cosy. Rooms feel homey yet refined, with warm woods, soft lighting, comfy seating, and are the perfect place to retreat to after a day of outdoor exploring. The decor strikes a balance: not too rustic, not too modern, just chic, clean comfort with alpine character. The overall energy whispers “relax and recharge” from the moment you step in.
In the months where there is no snow for skiing (the summer season runs roughly from July to October), the hotel and its surroundings reinvent themselves. Think hiking instead of skiing, renting a bike instead of a sled, and swimming in the lake, not skating on it. The region around Serfaus–Fiss–Ladis is dotted with hiking paths, alpine meadows, and forest-lined trails, ideal for long meandering walks, perfect for recharging.
We spent one afternoon gondola hopping (a fun activity on its own!) across the mountain to a nearby alpine lake. The water was crystal clear, and there were plenty of ways to enjoy it, from swim platforms to paddle boats. I wasn’t brave enough for a swim (though if I had thought to bring my suit, I just might have!), but there was still so much to enjoy. Surrounding the lake, there are activities and food for all ages, so dry fun is still very much a possibility. For an added thrill, there’s also a summer park nearby, including a zip-line experience over the slopes, and a summer mountain coaster, which was such a fun alternative to a gondola as a way to get back to the hotel. The views were second to none, and it was so fun to be transported through the hills on the way down.
Going to Austria in the warmer months, you get the best of both worlds: peaceful mountain calm and a generous dose of excitement when you choose it (bonus points for not needing a parka!).
If the outdoor activities bring the energy, the spa at Schlosshotel Fiss is the antidote for that, in the best way. I went from running at 100 MPH and full of adrenaline to no thoughts, just vibes — thanks to what might be one of the most indulgent wellness setups I’ve ever seen.
The 5,000 m² wellness and water-world complex at the hotel has zones for every kind of relaxation orientation: from light-and-loungy to serious spa sanctuary. The centrepiece is the indoor–outdoor pool: about 37 metres long, with floor-to-ceiling glass that separates indoor warmth from crisp mountain air. Floating there and staring out at the most unreal view as dusk settled and mountains turned bluish grey was one of those “pinch me” moments where you really don’t believe life is going to get any better…until you climb out of the pool and into the hot tub with an equally impressive view. Bliss.
Beyond the pool, there’s a dedicated “Splash Waterworld” for families with slides (also a blast for adults, can attest!), paddling zones, and teenage-friendly fun. I didn’t visit with kids, but could appreciate the joy from afar, safely contained with sliding, seemingly noise-proof doors, so it never disturbed the calm of the rest of the facility.
Then there’s the spa itself: adults-only, textile-free, quiet. Think panoramic saunas with mountain views, aroma steam rooms, salt baths, hammam vibes, liquor-latte-like herbal lounges, an infrared cabin, cold plunges, a Kneipp hydro circuit and indoor-outdoor jacuzzis, oh my! It felt a little like everything good for your body was conveniently put in front of you on a platter; it was glorious. There are also 14 treatment rooms for massages, body scrubs, alpine-herb rituals, and even a private couples’ spa suite if you want a full-on pamper. The vibe was less “tourist spa” and more, “your personal wellness hideaway.” It was the perfect place to come back to and relax after a full day of exploring. This hotel really values and understands holistic wellness, and the spa is just another example of that!
A quick note: the adults-only spa requires you to be textile-free, read: nude. For some, that’s part of the charm. For others, it might be a curveball. I found it added to the authenticity, but you’ll want to know that before booking. It is worth noting that the Family Spa allows textiles, which does include many of the same amenities, but at a smaller scale and lower temperatures (for the sauna) than the adults-only area.
Head to the slopes with a sporting legacy.
There’s truly no way to ever end up hungry at this hotel. Their “Luxury Board” option delivers with generous breakfasts (hello pastries, fresh fruit, coffee, and more), a substantial and hearty afternoon buffet (great after a long walk or bike ride), and dinner that was the true star of the show. After a morning hike or a spa day, dinners at Schlosshotel Fiss felt like the perfect way to send off the day. The restaurant menus lean into regional staples and seasonal produce with real care; nothing feels neglected or rushed, and it was always a highlight of the day.
Executive Chef Klaus Kneringer and Chef de Cuisine Michael Angerer transformed locally sourced ingredients into true works of art on a plate each night. Along with the Sommelier, Peter, who provided class recommendations to accompany each meal (a real lifesaver when the wine list was actually a book the size of a dictionary!). There was a rotating menu so that meant that I got to try new plates and palettes each night, which was such a great way to enjoy the local cuisine and a bonus, as every dish was delicious. Along with the seated meal and wine service, there was also a fully stocked buffet each night with a full spread, from cheese and a salad bar, to dessert selections. I never left hungry.
You could hike rugged alpine trails or ride e-bikes, then return to lounge in a steam-filled sauna or float in a glass-walled pool with mountain silhouettes as your horizon. For someone who loves a bit of excitement but also equally values restorative calm, this hotel especially hits the sweet spot in the off-season.
The wellness offering isn’t a side note; it’s a core tenet of the hotel and its values. The spa feels like a destination within itself. And pairing that with crisp mountain air, forest walks, and zip-lines gives you balance: hustle and hush, adventure and indulgence.
Rooms are warm and welcoming, not overly minimal or pretentious. They feel comfortable, tasteful, and cosy, like you’re visiting a friend’s mountain home and are immediately at ease.
Whether you’re travelling as a solo, couple, friends, or family, there’s space for everyone. Kids have their fun, adults have their peace, and everyone gets to pick their vibe.
If you want a getaway where you pedal through the trees by day, soak in a mountain-view spa by dusk, sip warm tea by firelight after dinner, and fall into bed in a comfy room that feels like home, Schlosshotel Fiss is your kind of retreat.
This is the place for people who don’t need snow to feel like they’re on holiday. It’s perfect for couples wanting scenic romance without ski-centre chaos, friends craving a balance of adventure and luxury, or solo travellers after a little “me-time + mountain air + spa serenity.”
If you’re after blistering slopes or après-ski, then maybe plan for winter. But if you want golden-hour leaves, warm air serenity, and a spa that actually feels like a sanctuary, then book the summer season slot.
An editor's guide to stepping away from the slopes and exploring the many other delights St. Moritz has to offer.
