As a lifelong skier who looks forward each year to crisp mountain air and the adrenaline rush of launching off the top of a perfectly groomed run, I wasn’t entirely sure how I would feel staying in the iconic ski town of St. Moritz without actually hitting the slopes. It didn’t take long to realise, however, that you don’t have to clip into skis to fall head over heels for this glamorous alpine destination. Yes, St. Moritz is famed for champagne-soaked après-ski and Olympic-level slopes, but look a little closer and you’ll discover a winter (and summer) wonderland just as magical for non-skiers. Think glamour, slow luxury, and nature at its most cinematic.
St. Moritz sits high in the Engadin valley, around 3 hours from Zurich via scenic mountain train. As we ascended through snowy countryside along the UNESCO World Heritage route, clinging to the mountainside, I was left in awe of the picture-perfect views. Then there is St. Moritz itself, wrapped in frozen lakes, pine forests and sunlit peaks glowing pink as we pulled into the station just in time for golden hour. Collected by a smartly dressed bellman, I made the short journey up the hotel’s private winding driveway to my luxurious home for the next few days: Carlton Hotel St. Moritz.
Perched above Lake St. Moritz with panoramic views of snow-tipped peaks and frozen white waters, this five-star sanctuary blends old-world elegance with contemporary comfort. The Carlton feels like an exclusive secret — an intimate hideaway with just 60 individually designed suites that truly feel like home (albeit a very chic one). Every room is south-facing to capture those sun-kissed views, and many, including my own, feature balconies where I sipped morning coffee while breathing in crisp mountain air and gazing across the Engadin Valley below.
After freshening up and settling into my stylish suite I made my way down to the bar to explore the hotel a little more. An evening in the Carlton Bar was the perfect way to unwind after a long day of travelling. With its velvet banquettes, soft golden lighting and roaring fireplaces, the space strikes that perfect balance between classic alpine glamour and intimate hideaway. The cocktail menu is thoughtful and beautifully executed — from impeccably mixed martinis to creative signatures that nod to the mountains with herbal infusions and seasonal flavours. There’s a sense of theatre to it all: the gentle clink of ice in crystal glasses, bartenders who know exactly when to offer a recommendation, and that first sip as live piano music hums softly in the background. A glass of bubbles in front of the imposing stone fireplace was the perfect pre dinner aperitif.
Dinner was served in the aptly named Grand Restaurant. The menu combines classic alpine comfort and contemporary creativity. Seasonal ingredients are the stars here, treated with respect and elevated with thoughtful technique. I began with a delicate amuse-bouche — a tiny, artful bite that hinted at the culinary treats to come. This was followed by a delicious vegetarian five course tasting menu, filled with tender seasonal vegetables paired with rich, velvety sauces full of freshness and depth. The butternut squash and hazelnut tartlet main was a particular highlight. Delightfully full and longing to rest my head on the crisp squishy pillows awaiting a few floors above, I retired to my room to rest up ahead of a long day of enticing exploration.
With so much to discover and limited time, The Carlton offers the perfect solution: its in-house outdoor butler, Aleksandra. Acting as planner, guide and host, she enthusiastically curates bespoke outdoor experiences tailored entirely to you. From snowshoe hikes into untouched wilderness to secluded alpine picnics or adrenaline-fuelled adventures, Aleksandra designs it all. For my first experience, she took me well outside my comfort zone, ice bathing.
Tucked into a sunlit corner of the frozen lake, Aleksandra carved a hole in the thick ice, guided my breathing, and held my hand as I entered the icy water. Surprisingly exhilarating, I managed a full minute and a half before retreating to a warm robe and hot tea by the lake’s edge. Feeling invigorated, I returned to the hotel for lunch on the exclusive Carlton Sun Terrace, enjoying sea bass in beurre blanc and a couple of glasses of champagne as the lake glittered below.
The jingle of bells soon signalled my next adventure. Waiting outside were two handsome horses and a cosy carriage piled high with faux-fur blankets. Wrapped up and waving to passersby, we trundled through snowy paths and into the woods beyond the lake. As late afternoon sunlight filtered through the trees, it was a peaceful, breathtaking moment, a much needed reminder to slow down and simply take it all in.
Once we had made our way around the lake we headed up the hill towards the main town for our third activity of the day. As we pulled up to the entrance of the St Moritz Skating Club, a smiling Aleksandra was once again waiting to guide us through our afternoon pursuit. As a very inexperienced ice skater the nerves were building as I laced up my boots and tottered towards the ice but thankfully Alexsandra was there with a steady hand as I took to the ice. After a shaky start and essential reliance on the skating aid I finally started to get the hang of it and completed several laps of the rink with some grace. I even managed to make my way over to the bright pink, instagram ready carousel positioned in the centre of the rink for a few pics snapped by Alexsandra, just as the sun was beginning to set. She then surprised us with hot chocolate and homemade cookies before safely returning to less slippy ground.
After such an active day, the Carlton Spa beckoned. Spread across three floors with spectacular views throughout, it’s the ultimate place to unwind. From sauna and steam rooms to indoor and heated outdoor pools with massage jets, every detail is designed for post-adventure bliss. After a couple of hours, feeling cosy and relaxed, I headed back up to my room to get ready for a highly anticipated dinner.
Over the past few years, St Moritz has become a must-visit destination for foodies, in part down to the success of Da Vittorio. The newly renovated Da Vittorio, housed within the Carlton is a two-Michelin-starred restaurant from the renowned Cerea brothers that serves elevated Italian cuisine you’ll be dreaming about long after dessert. Think artistic pasta dishes, seasonal ingredients and a wine list to match. We were treated to a six course tasting menu featuring warm feather-light focaccia, succulent fresh fish, and an Il Pacchero finished at the table which was as delicious as it was entertaining. You know it’s been an unforgettable meal when you choose to walk up the six flights of stairs to your room instead of taking the elevator, just to walk off some of the incredible food you just couldn’t bear to leave behind.
The next morning after one of the most comfortable nights I have ever had it was time for breakfast back in the Grand Restaurant. A delectable buffet awaits, filled with fresh pastries, fruits, yoghurts, meats and cheeses and even a glass of bubbles if you so wish. But if even that isn't enough there is also an extensive à la carte menu filled with sweet and savoury delights. I had just enough time to grab one final pain aux raisin before heading back down to the spa for a relaxed morning by the pool and a much needed full body massage.
No trip to St Moritz would be complete without exploring more of the town itself, and where better to start than another delicious meal. Nestled in the charming Chesa Chantarella with a terrace that overlooks the snowy peaks and slopes of Corviglia, you will hear Langosteria before you see it. A live band, performing a variety of Italian and classic crowd pleasers, are roaming around the terrace as we arrive and settle into the faux fur lined outdoor bar area for a pre lunch glass of bubbles. The atmosphere feels vibrant yet refined with a mixture of skiers straight off the slopes and those of us who have come by foot, with everyone here to sample some of the best seafood in the alps. We began with a sharing platter overflowing with the freshest seafood of all shapes and sizes alongside yet another basket of traditional Italian breads and perfectly salted butter. To follow, after the delicious Paccheri last night I couldn't resist another plate but this time with the welcome addition of fresh sea bass mixed through the rich creamy tomato sauce.
Feeling delightfully full and a little sleepy, a walk around the town centre was in order to awaken the senses. St. Moritz is proof that a town can be small and still feel impossibly glamorous. Compact, walkable, and framed by dramatic alpine scenery, it’s the kind of destination where wandering without a plan is not only acceptable, it’s encouraged. We start on Via Serlas, St. Moritz’s most famous street and a catwalk of luxury. This is where high-end fashion houses sit shoulder to shoulder with traditional jewellers and watchmakers, their windows sparkling against the snow. From there, we wander toward the older area of the village, where the vibe softens and becomes more local. You’ll find charming boutiques selling cashmere, Swiss chocolates, and beautifully designed homewares — the kind of souvenirs you actually want to take home. These quieter streets feel more intimate, especially in the evening when the light glows warmly against the alpine architecture.
Before leaving the luxurious mountain haven I have been calling home there is one final iconic alpine delight that must be experienced, a cheese fondue. What could be better than a classic Swiss fondue, bubbling, gooey and delicious? A classic Swiss fondue served not in a cosy chalet, but inside a private repurposed ski gondola positioned right outside the hotel, with views over the lake during the day and surrounded by hundreds of tiny sparkling lights in the evening. The concept is as delightful as it sounds. These gondolas seat two to four people, and are available for lunch or dinner throughout the winter season. Each one is snug and heated, so you’re toasty even when it’s chilly outside. The menu leans into beloved Swiss classics with an elevated twist. The star of the show is the moitié-moitié fondue, a rich blend of Gruyère and Vacherin cheeses served with bread, potatoes, cornichons, and pickled onions, plus an option to upgrade to a truffle fondue for a luxe, earthy flair, which we of course did. There were also sharable starters like a Swiss Nüsslisalat and dried meat platters, and a ‘light’ double-cream meringue dessert with berries to finish. A deliciously unique experience all round.
The following morning, after one final breakfast and as the train pulled out of the station into the snowy countryside, I reflected on the many adventures of the past couple of days. Although this was the first time I had ever visited a ski town without actually skiing, my schedule was jam packed everyday with new and exciting experiences I would never even have considered and will never forget. But the best part? There’s zero pressure. No early alarms, no aching legs, no freezing your butt off in the queue for the chairlift. St. Moritz without skiing is about indulgence, beauty, and moving at your own pace. It’s proof that winter travel can be fun, stylish, and deeply satisfying, even when your skis stay firmly at home.
Carlton Hotel St. Moritz is available from CHF 1'710 per room per night based on two adults sharing a deluxe room on a B&B basis. This includes a 100 CHF food and beverage voucher per adult per day, butler service, minibar, service, VAT and complimentary access to the hotel’s spa carlton-stmoritz.ch
