Roksanda has always known how to create a head-turning colour combo and stand-out silhouette. But for Roksanda autumn / winter 2022, the Serbian-born designer turned the volume up to eleven, presenting ever more experimental colour clashes and super-sized shapes that felt buzzy and bold yet were ultimately, brilliantly, wearable.
Thinking hard on the practical elements that we need in our post-pandemic life, this might have been the most prosaic Roksanda collection, ever. The looks were full of solution-led styling that would easily fit into our wardrobes (we wish…) while still bringing those statement silhouettes and contemporary edge she is known for. With fans including Michelle Obama, Blake Lively and Kate Middleton and a coterie of art world mavens, Roksanda’s mix-matched palette echoed the bright wooden sculptures by Eva Rothschild, which dominated the catwalk space at Tate Britain.
This is why we can’t wait to cosy up 🍂
And about those colour combinations. It seemed that Gen Z’s favourite dopamine dressing got a reboot with mixes of grown-up tones like navy, sand and burgundy highlighted, literally, with sharp brights. Most looks focused on four key shades that balanced each other impeccably, rather than the basic formula of using two main shades and one accent.
A particularly useful sandy-shade trench-poncho hybrid was edged with black and came with a useful rain and wind-proof high neckline, complete with drawstrings to keep out the elements. Fuchsia boots seemed a simple way to bring the four colours together, but these perfectly teamed neutrals and brights were no accident. Even if you’re not in the market for a full Roksanda look, these colour lessons can be echoed in your own outfits now.
For evening, a category Roksanda shines at, a slinky navy gown with panniered hips seems like a straight-forward proposition. But the jolt of highlighter lime worn underneath the dress makes it cool and a bright idea to try for day. Try layering a neon tee under a navy knit or blazer.
A crushed raspberry faille dress fell in tiers while giant bishop sleeves enveloped the models arms… A black belt and pumpkin spiced hooded jerkin added structure and edge (while a strap and trainers in white felt fresh.) Another outerwear option - a burgundy trench coat - is trimmed with orange and has sandy coloured sleeves. Slouchy leather boots in a dusty shade of old rose make it unexpected but these wide array of colours work because they are both strong and warm.
In Roksanda’s hand, brights and lights worn for autumn feel truly ground-breaking. In a season that is usually dedicated to chocolate, taupe and black, a chartreuse poncho is practical and punchy but the panel of watercolour-style tones of jade, emerald and lime and the malachite coloured boots it’s worn with, elevate the whole and will refresh any winter-weary commute. That same style print, a fissure between planes of bold colour, comes in merlot, lilac and baby pink tones splicing through a cape-sleeved dress in pale coral, too.
Likewise, pastels - a spring cert - are reimagined for autumn. They take the guise of a dove grey wool and caramel silk panelled coat, worn over a cowl-neck blouse in that same caramel silk and billowing trousers in palest sky blue, washed out ochre and chestnut shades. It looks like a misty autumn sunrise come to life.
The colour-clashing rulebook is being ripped up.
Putting away your clothes because they are ‘summer’ coloured seems as outdated as dial-up and at Roksanda autumn winter 2022, the witty use of a rainbow of shades, year round, was a joy. Not least because we now know how to wear our summer brights all year long. That is something way more than groundbreaking.
Read more from Glamour UK Fashion Director at large Alex Fullerton here or follow her on Instagram @alexandrafullerton
