There's a laundry list of reasons why the best retinol serum should be in your daily skincare routine. It brings fresh cells to the skin's surface faster; it ramps up collagen production, dusts off pigmentation and softens the look of wrinkles, all while give you a baby-faced glow.
But should you really be using retinol, or indeed any retinoid (an umbrella term for all vitamin A derivatives), in summer?
As a beauty editor my knee-jerk reaction has always been ‘no’ because retinol can make skin more sun sensitive. So for the past few years I have retired my retinol from May to September, starting the ugly weeks of retinol irritation again every October.
But it seems that I've been missing a trick and it is possible to use retinol safely during the summer months. “One of retinol's main benefits is that it can promote collagen production, which is important in summer given the sun's rays can break down this essential protein in our skin,” says consultant dermatologist, Dr Angela Tewari.
Not only that, but if used correctly, retinol can help to counteract the pigmentation that sun exposure causes, as well as improving skin texture, tone and reducing fine lines, she says.
Another silver lining is that the humidity in the air means skin isn't as dry as it is in winter so there's less risk of redness and flaking.
There is a caveat, though. “Using retinol in summer can be beneficial, but it requires extra precautions,” Dr Tewari notes, including when you're applying it, how much and the amount of sun you're being exposed to.
Detailed below are the do's and don'ts of using retinol safely in summer so that you avoid sun damage:
1.Only apply retinol at night
There are two main reasons we're told to stay out of the sun when using retinol. Many retinols aren't photostable so they break down when exposed to UV rays, making them less potent. But, more importantly, retinol also makes your skin more prone to sun damage.
This is because retinol speeds up the rate at which skin sheds, so the new cells underneath are more sensitive to the sun. All reasons why Dr Tewari advises you should only ever apply retinol at night during the summer and any other time of year.
2.Religiously apply sunscreen the next morning
The most important advice to follow when using retinol in summer, however, is to “wear a facial sunscreen of at least SPF50 daily and reapply every two hours to protect your skin from potential sun-sensitivity and pigmentation,” says Dr Tewari.
3. Use a low concentration
Retinol can be nettlesome any time of year if you go in hard by using it too often, at too high a dose. But if your skin is already sensitive due to sun exposure, using high concentrations of retinol can make matters worse with patches of irritation.
“Flaking with retinol is a sign of irritation and makes your skin more vulnerable to sunlight and UV-induced hyperpigmentation,” explains consultant dermatologist Dr Magnus Lynch. So if you have sensitive or melanin-rich skin – or suffer from melasma – you need to be careful when exposed to strong sunlight.
And if you're a first time user, “it might be a better option to start retinol in the cooler months," he adds. "But if you decide to start in summer, be diligent with sun protection and start slow with lower concentrations every other day.”
0.01% is considered a low yet effective over-the-counter retinoid dose and allows you to err on the side of caution during summer. Medik8 Crystal Retinal 1 and Paula's Choice Resist Intensive Repair Cream with 0.01% Retinol are good options – you can then graduate to higher strengths in the winter months.
Medik8 Crystal Retinal
- Retinoid concentration: 0.01% to 0.2% retinal.
- Form of retinol: Retinaldehyde.
- Suitable for sensitive skin? Yes.
- ≈30ml.
Why we love it: Made with retinaldehyde – a next-generation retinoid that is much, much faster-acting than regular retinol – this innovative skincare product is available in 5 different strengths. In other words, this formulation is perfect for both beginners and more experienced retinol users alike.
"When it comes to Medik8 Crystal Retinal, I’ve been using it for about two years now - long enough to know it’s not not just a fad. I’ll admit, I made the classic mistake of diving straight in with strength 10 (not my finest moment), and quickly learned why Medik8 recommends starting low and working your way up.
After a short break to rebuild my barrier, I switched to strength 3 and gradually built up tolerance, using it a few nights a week before making it a nightly staple. Now, I’m on a higher strength (6 to be exact) and my skin has fully adapted to it. It’s helped smooth fine lines, even out texture, and gives me that subtle brightness that makes everything - even makeup - sit better. I’ve recommended it to pretty much everyone I know, and even my brother, who used to splash his face with water and call it a day, is now converted. It’s that good." - Shani Cohen, Glamour's Beauty Commerce Writer.
Tester: Denise Primbet, Glamour's Beauty Contributor & Shani Cohen, Glamour's Beauty Commerce Writer.
4. Don't use retinol if you have a sunburn
You'll want to keep your skin calm after a sunburn and give it time to heal. Retinol can cause mild irritation so it's definitely not wise to apply it on already angry, sore skin.
5. Press pause on retinol if you're holidaying somewhere hot
There are additional considerations for a beach holiday abroad or if you intend to spend longer periods in the sun. “Alongside sunscreen, wear protective clothing such as hats and sunglasses and seek shade during peak sun hours from 10am to 2pm,” says Dr Lynch.
It's also wise to temporarily pause your retinol use to minimise the risk of sun damage, especially if you're planning on getting a tan. “If you will be experiencing significant sun exposure – even with sunscreen – then I would advise discontinuing retinol for a week before travel and during your holiday,” Dr Lynch says. “You can then gradually reintroduce it when you return."
6. Stick to a gentle skincare routine
Combining retinol with UV rays is tough on the skin so it's important to stick to gentle cleaners and hydrating serums and moisturisers. Look for ingredients like ceramides and hyaluronic acid in all your products, including your sunscreen.
Vichy Minéral 89 Hyaluronic Acid Hydrating Serum
Vichy Minéral 89 Hyaluronic Acid Serum
- Best for: A lightweight gel texture.
- Skin type suitable for: All.
- Key ingredients: Hyaluronic acid and glycerin.
- Cruelty-free? No.
- Fragranced? No.
Why we love it: According to Dr. Lolis, Vichy’s Mineral 89 Hyaluronic Acid Face Serum works to improve the skin on two fronts: Hyaluronic acid plumps and smooths, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, while Vichy’s signature French volcanic water helps make skin more resilient to environmental stressors that contribute to visible signs of ageing. Over time, the complexion is visibly smoother and healthier-looking. The gel formula is lightweight without feeling sticky or looking too shiny — it simply absorbs into the skin within moments, providing both an immediate burst of hydration as well as long-lasting results.
The INKEY List Hyaluronic Acid Serum
The INKEY List Hyaluronic Acid Serum
- Best for: Intense hydration at a modest price.
- Skin type suitable for: All.
- Key ingredients: Hyaluronic acid and glycerin.
- Cruelty-free? Yes.
- Fragranced? No.
- Tester: Katie Leirey, Senior SEO Manager.
Why we love it: I used this consistently for a month and, while it didn’t completely transform my skin, it did exactly what I wanted it to do: tame dry patches and put some much-needed moisture back into my complexion. It has quite a watery, runny texture, so it comes out fast, and I do think a dropper would make the application a bit easier and less messy. I found it absorbed much better when my skin was slightly damp, so I tended to use it alongside a hydrating face mist, which helped it sink in nicely.
The bottle is definitely on the smaller side, but for the price, I still think it’s a great option if you want hydration without spending a fortune. It gave my skin a lovely subtle glow, helped it feel more comfortable and, importantly, I didn’t break out once while using it. It may not work wonders, but if your skin is feeling dry or dehydrated, it’s a reliable, affordable staple.
Skip other exfoliators like AHA’s & BHA’s as retinol does the same job – doubling up can compromise the skin barrier and cause irritation.
It's also worth noting that while a vitamin C serum helps to combat the effects of increased UV exposure, it doesn't play nicely with retinol. Mixing vitamin C and retinol together at the same time of day can burn your skin (when your skin can tolerate it, you could use vitamin C by day and retinol at night).
For more from Fiona Embleton, GLAMOUR's Associate Beauty Director, follow her on @fiembleton.
