I first arrived in Istanbul by accident – on my own, after a missed connection and a night with nowhere to stay – and a city I never meant to linger in ended up pulling me in more deeply than I expected. Part ancient, part fiercely modern, stretched across two continents and threaded with water, it has a way of pulling you back. Each return has revealed a different mood – a shift in the food scene, a new wave of design-led hotels, entire neighbourhoods changing tempo. What hasn’t changed is the magnetism: the call to prayer drifting across the Bosphorus, the way the light shifts over the water, the feeling that life here moves at its own pulse.
For a city that spans millennia, Istanbul manages to feel startlingly current. The new waterfront development at Galataport has turned the Karaköy shoreline into something quietly elegant: a sweep of contemporary architecture, open-air restaurants, galleries and boutiques that have made this stretch one of the most stylish places in the world to shop. From here you can drift up to the Galata Tower, cross to the Asian side by ferry, or walk into the criss-cross of old streets that give Istanbul its texture.
It only takes 10 pieces.
Where to stay
Istanbul’s hotel scene has transformed in the past few years, and the city now has a cluster of genuinely exceptional places to sleep.
The city’s new grande dame, set directly on the water at Galataport. It feels immaculate without being ostentatious — acres of marble, a world-class spa and a truffle burger to die for — and is one of the best-positioned hotels for exploring on foot, whether you’re heading into Karaköy, over to Beşiktaş or into the Old City.
A confident base above Beşiktaş, with sweeping Bosphorus views and Nobu downstairs for Black Cod and lychee martinis. It’s the kind of place where everything simply works — polished, warm, and brilliantly located for window-shopping in Nişantaşı (Istanbul’s answer to Bond Street) and the waterfront.
Sleek comfort right on the shoreline. The rooms look straight over the ferries as they cross the strait, and the hotel’s traditional hammam is one of its best-kept secrets. You’re within an easy walk of Beşiktaş’s meyhanes and the fish market, but can retreat instantly to calm.
Old-world elegance on a sublimely-positioned waterfront estate. Exceptional food, superlative service, and a grand piano in the lobby that sets the tone. It’s classical Istanbul — calm, generous, beautifully run. Order a perfectly made martini in the Assouline Bar and settle in with a copy of The Grand Bazaar — a small ritual that deepens the hotel’s sense of place.
What to see
If it’s your first time, the Old City is non-negotiable: the Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, Basilica Cistern and the Grand Bazaar still carry the architectural and emotional weight of centuries. But the magic of Istanbul lies in wandering beyond the obvious.
Walk the Bosphorus waterfront from Beşiktaş towards Dolmabahçe and watch the ferries trace diagonal paths across the water. Cross to the Asian side at sunset and step into Kadıköy’s bookshops and coffee bars. Or head to Balat for its steep, colourful streets and old Armenian and Greek houses. Every neighbourhood feels like a different city.
If you’re looking for a restorative moment, book the beautifully restored Kılıç Ali Paşa Hamamı in Karaköy — a serene architectural masterpiece designed by Sinan in the 16th century and now one of the most stylish traditional hammams in Istanbul.
Where to shop
Istanbul’s shopping is one of its subtle pleasures — a mix of heritage craft, modern Turkish design and global fashion.
Start at Galataport, where international brands sit alongside local boutiques in a clean, airy setting that feels more Mediterranean than Middle Eastern. From there, wander up into Karaköy for independent jewellery studios and design shops, then take a taxi to Nişantaşı for the city’s most elegant boutiques and cafés.
One place I return to every time is Atelier Rebul, Istanbul’s heritage fragrance house. Their scent Pera is my favourite — warm, golden, named after the Pera Palace Hotel where Agatha Christie famously drank martinis while writing Murder on the Orient Express. The whole brand feels distinctly Istanbul: nostalgic and modern at the same time.
For ceramics and glassware, head to Iznik Works in Çukurcuma for modern pieces inspired by Ottoman patterns, or Feyzan Keramik in Balat for hand-painted bowls and vases that make beautiful, packable souvenirs.
For jewellery, look to the independent designers around Karaköy — particularly Kısmet by Milka, known for delicate gold pieces that mix Turkish heritage with a contemporary edge, or Zeynep Erol, whose sculptural designs are exquisite.
For rugs, visit the more curated dealers in Arnavutköy, where the selection feels considered rather than overwhelming.
Neighbourhoods to wander
Beşiktaş — Lived-in, youthful, full of cafés and local markets.
Karaköy — Industrial edges softened by design studios and restaurants.
Bebek — Waterfront walks, polished brunch spots, discreet glamour.
Nişantaşı — Fashion, art galleries, and some of the city’s best people-watching.
Balat — Steep streets, colourful houses, and a growing creative scene.
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How to do Istanbul well
Take the ferry — always. It’s the most beautiful way to see the city and costs next to nothing. Book museums early. Eat late. Carry cash for markets and street food. Don’t rush: Istanbul works best when you move at its pace.
What keeps me coming back is the layering of everything — history, modernity, chaos, calm — all stitched together by the water. The city doesn’t ask you to choose between sides; it asks you to drift between them.
