Buzzy skincare ingredients can take off overnight on social media, but the trending acid of the moment doesn’t always come with an instruction manual. Wondering how to apply glycolic acid on your face? TikTok will tell you all about its multitasking super powers, but we asked dermatologists exactly how to incorporate it into your routine.
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What is glycolic acid?
If you need a complete crash course on glycolic acid and how it works, we’ve got you covered, but for a quick refresher: “Glycolic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that gently dissolves the bonds holding dead skin cells together,” says Jeannette Graf, assistant clinical professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai School of Medicine. “Because of its small molecular size, it penetrates rapidly and deeply, helping resurface dull skin and boost cell turnover for a brighter, smoother complexion.”
So, what sets glycolic acid apart from other trendy chemical exfoliants, like azelaic acid or salicylic acid? “Of the AHAs, glycolic is the simplest in structure and the smallest; it has the lowest molecular weight,” says Kenneth Howe, MD, a dermatologist at UnionDerm in New York City.
Due to its small molecular weight, it’s able to penetrate the skin especially deeply, which helps boost skin elasticity and target acne in addition to breaking down dead skin cells on the surface.
How to apply glycolic acid to your face
A quick search for glycolic-acid products will turn up cleansers, peel pads, and concentrates—which doesn’t make it easy to figure out where to start.
With any new skin care active, you’ll want to tailor application technique to your skin type and concerns. If you’re brand-new to glycolic acid, Dr. Graf says that one rule is fairly universal: “Start by using it once or twice a week, and build up as your skin adjusts. Using it too often can cause dryness or sensitivity,” she says.
If your skin is prone to irritation, Dr. Graf advises looking for glycolic-acid formulas under 10% for at-home use. An easy way to test the waters is to opt for a face wash.
“A glycolic cleanser can get your skin used to it, rather than diving straight into a leave-on glycolic product if you are unsure whether your skin can tolerate it,” says Alix Shapiro, skin therapist at Heyday in New York City.
Dr. Graf also notes that for extremely sensitive, dry, or rosacea-prone skin, glycolic acid might be too harsh altogether. “Gentler exfoliants, such as lactic acid or polyhydroxy acids (PHAs), might be better options,” she says.
If your skin generally responds well to skincare acids (or if you’ve built up a tolerance), one of the most effective ways to administer glycolic acid is through a chemical peel.
You can opt for a medical-grade peel at your dermatologist’s office once a month—or, more conveniently, use glycolic-acid peel pads at home. Since these are less potent, they can be used two to three times a week.
Good options include No7 Glycolic Exfoliating Pads, which contain 10% glycolic acid to gently exfoliate, and Dr Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta Extra Strength Daily Peel, which harnesses the power of five AHAs (glycolic, lactic, malic, citric and salicylic) to resurface the top layer of skin.
Peel pads are particularly easy to use, since they’re already saturated with the formula: Simply grab a pad with clean hands, and swipe it all over your face and neck. Avoid the eye area, and make sure you’re not pressing down too hard or scrubbing.
If you’re using a bottled toner or glycolic-acid solution, Tracy Evans, a board-certified dermatologist and medical director of Pacific Skin and Cosmetic Dermatology, advises using a cotton pad to administer the product (using the same method) as a first layer after cleansing your skin.
Another option is to use a glycolic-acid mask, used once a week for about 10 minutes. Dr. Graf recommends the Charlotte Tilbury Super Radiance Resurfacing Facial for a glow boost in oily and combination skin types, “as it can help combat clogged pores and acne-prone skin.” Just make sure you’re washing it off thoroughly and following with barrier-repair products.
While it might take a little trial and error to find which application method works best with your skincare routine, remember that you should only be testing out one at a time. Using glycolic acid in multiple steps of your routine—or using concentrated products every day—“can result in dry, irritated skin,” Dr. Evans says.
If you’re adding an exfoliating acid to your lineup, it’s also important to balance it with hydrating, soothing counterparts. “Glycolic pairs well with hydrating and barrier-repair ingredients like hyaluronic acid, ceramides, and niacinamide,” Dr. Graf says.
On the other hand, if you already have a strong acid like retinol in your regimen, you generally shouldn’t mix it with a new glycolic-acid product. Using glycolic acid with other products that target cell turnover “can overwhelm your skin and lead to irritation,” according to Dr. Graf.
How long will it take to see results?
It’s not uncommon to experience some mild side effects when you first start using glycolic acid. “Mild tingling, dryness, or flakiness are common at first, especially if you’re new to exfoliating acids,” Dr. Graf says. If you’re noticing severe irritation or redness, it’s a signal to try a formula with a lower glycolic-acid concentration—or to cut back on your frequency of use.
“You’ll usually notice a smoother texture and glow within a week or two, with more visible improvements in tone and fine lines after about a month of consistent use,” Dr. Graf says. According to Dr. Evans, most people will see notable results after using glycolic acid a few times a week over three to six months.
BeautyTok might have you believe that a new acid will transform your skin overnight, but experts advise patience and moderation. While you’re tracking your own results, remember Dr. Graf’s glycolic-acid golden rule: “Consistency is key, but avoid overuse.”
A version of this article originally appeared on Glamour US.
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