HAIR TRENDS

Hourglass layers have taken face-shaping to our waists (yes, really)

The hair equivalent of spanx, just way more comfortable.

15 May 2024

Hourglass Layers Have Taken FaceShaping To Our Waists

We know a banging haircut can bring out our bone structure and frame our faces, but hourglass layers are taking things a step further. Coined by hair pro and trend forecaster, Tom Smith, the trend (which we've been spotting everywhere) looks at how extra hair length can create even more shaping – celebrating and highlighting not just the contours of our face, but our body, too.

What are hourglass layers?

Hourglass layers takes the idea of creating proportion through tactical shaping (which haircuts often do for our faces thanks to layers that cup the cheekbone, jaw or clavicle), but extends it with a hairstyle that's been gaining in popularity.

“Super long hair has been gradually getting more and more popular for a while,” explains Tom. With hourglass layers, “the length sits at the narrowest part of the waist, enhancing the feminine ‘hourglass’ shape. The ends should taper around the waist which is achieved with clever layering to ensure the correct balance of the bulk of the hair,” says Tom.

Why choose hourglass layers?

With “rich girl” and “expensive” hair dominating the last few seasons, courtesy of TikTok, this trend taps into similar same territory. “It's the ultimate in ‘health and wealth' signalling," says Tom. “Long hair needs to be healthy to look good and it takes care to keep it glossy," he adds.

“For many people, waist length hair is the longest their hair will ever be – very few people grow their hair longer than waist-length, but we're seeing a lot of references for this super, super long, glossy, healthy-looking hair,” says Tom. “Of course, this takes a long time to grow, but we can also utilise extensions for this. I think having extensions in your hair sends that message that you're taking care of yourself, that you take pride in your appearance and you're willing to invest in it,” he adds.

It's “ideal for those who love the look of long hair and are willing to look after the more fragile ends," Tom says.

How to style hourglass layers?

As for how to get hourglass layers, “ask your hairstylist to layer your hair carefully, keeping a balance of thickness, and taper the ends softly to hit the narrowest part of your waist,” Tom advises. You'll need long, fluid layers. “Fluid layers are cut on an angle so they flow really organically and encourage the hair to move, rather than looking like ledges or wedges,” explains Tom. “The point of them is to taper the ends so that the thickest part of the hair is in the middle [around your shoulders and chest] and it tapers down, narrowing in at the waist. The hair should be getting thinner as it reaches the longest part, at the waist, which is what gives it that silhouette,” says Tom.

It's a good idea to get into the routine of giving your hair regular maintenance, too. “Keeping long hair healthy is crucial, so be sure to incorporate a bond builder into your weekly hair regime and develop a healthy hair habit of applying a few drops of serum or your preferred oil to the ends of your hair every night before going to bed,” says Tom. “Avoid sleeping with your hair loose – instead secure with a large silk scrunchy at the nape of your neck or to one side and gently secure multiple scrunchies down the length to keep the hair in place and avoid friction during the night,” he adds.