Have you noticed that the people are yearning for headwear? Fun, weird shoes have ruled fashion for years now, but it seems that focus is increasingly shifting to the top of the silhouette.
Girly balaclavas came into style around three years ago and have been going strong every winter since. (Think more pearl-encrusted Simone Rocha knit than black ski mask.) Fluffy hats have also been on a steady rise for years, championed by independent designers like Emma Brewin and Benny Andallo – both of whom have dressed Rihanna in a fluffy hat, coincidentally.
Bonnets have also been on the scene, though in a more queer, expressive way than The Handmaid's Tale associations you might be making, as evidenced by milliners such as Genn Nomie, the brain behind Delights World. Then, last year, the roster of trendy headwear expanded to styles like sailor hats, pillbox hats and the baker boy cap. Clearly, hats are in vogue again.
Granted, it's not like we ever stopped seeing certain hat styles: “The beanie and baseball cap have been ever-present, but I really feel like we’re witnessing a resurgence of more feminine and innovative hat styles,” says Sideara St. Claire, a milliner based in New York who specialises in avant-garde styles. Up until the Second World War, hats were a vital part of one's dress. But over the second half of the 20th century, their popularity began to wane. “Hats used to be a social norm, if you weren’t wearing one it was improper,” continues Sideara.
“Wearing hats then was about respectability; an undressed head in public was scandalous,” agrees Jenny Beattie, a British milliner and a member of the British Hat Guild. “It’s too ‘Handmaid’s Tale’ to think that will ever happen [again], but I absolutely do think that hats are becoming a bigger part of the outfit for everyone.” Jenny collaborated with Central Saint Martins undergraduate Matthew David Andrews on his final collection last year, producing sculptural hats merged with umbrellas, one of which was worn by Lady Gaga.
“Hats in the past were purposeful, they were functional or defined a social status,” notes Robyn Salt, the Manchester-based milliner behind Salt Hats, who specialises in custom sailor hats using secondhand and repurposed materials. “Now, full creativity is taking over.”
But what exactly is behind this recent trend? With insight from 5 fashion designers and milliners, we identified 4 cultural elements that have fuelled the desire for hats.
Individuality
“I don't believe this 'hat moment' is a passing trend: it feels like hats are being reclaimed as a playful and essential part of personal style," says Robyn Salt. “I always notice a hat first and never feel fully dressed without one.”
“I think they sometimes exist as a cherry on top for an outfit, something unique to really take it there in an era where many people are dressing like they all studied the same Pinterest board,” weighs in Erik Charlotte, an LA-based fashion designer who specialises in corsetry and womenswear, but who often uses hats to top off her looks. The looks in question have been spotted on stars like Julia Fox and Rebecca Black. “I also believe that right now a lot of people are desperate for signifiers of coolness or uniqueness, and throwing a vintage or strange hat on with a pair of jeans and a t-shirt can instantly make you feel that much more interesting."
“There’s so much scope to communicate with headwear: whether you’re demonstrating your individuality or making a declaration about your politics, wearing a hat is a really powerful statement to make,” affirms Jenny Beattie.
Escapism
“At the end of the day, I think we all also really want to have escapist fun, and hats have such potential to be a beautiful stage for whimsical performance,” says Sideara St. Claire. Indeed, escapist fashion has been dominating trends, from nostalgia and regression into childhood, to mythical fantasy worlds.
“I think we’ll continue to see more unique hats, with bigger plumes of feathers and wider brims,” muses Erik Charlotte on this desire to play dress up, whereas Jenny Beattie notes the popularity of period dramas, in particular the influence of Peaky Blinders, on baker boy caps.
Customisation
“I think hats have been having a moment for ordinary but stylish people as part of an overall resurgence in interesting or novelty accessories,” notes Genn Nomie of Delights World, which specialises in quirky, expressive bonnets made in London and Hastings. Genn notes that, in certain contexts, hats never dropped out of style: think posh British weddings. “The masses have been resigned for a few decades to the flat peak cap or beanie, usually to hide their bed hair or balding head, but anything else was probably seen as showing off because it simply wasn't utilitarian.”
“I think the Zoom craze and the digital mirror have brought back a focus on adorning the head,” notes Sideara St. Claire, referencing how our hyper-digital lifestyle has created a greater scrutiny on our appearance.
“Also, it works well for the current trend of adorning your accessories with charms or collectables – at the end of the day, a hat can act as another surface you can add pins, ribbons, and charms to,” adds Erik Charlotte.
Practicality
“The trend cycle moves faster than ever, but I think people overall are craving a sense of privacy and security. Subconsciously, hats can provide that – the symbolism of something covering your head shouldn’t be overlooked,” notes Sideara St. Claire.
“I think people, especially women with long hair, are always looking for ways to distract from the fact that wash day is approaching. I see this most in the popularity of the slick-back pony or bun, and I think a hat could be seen as a creative way to get one last day out of your shampoo," adds Erik Charlotte.
And why pillbox hats, sailor hats and baker boy caps in particular? “What’s critical about the styles you mention is the wearability and affordability, and perhaps that’s why people are embracing them,” considers Jenny Beattie.
“Sailor hats, I think, will be massive because it’s kind of between casual and dressy,” adds Genn Nomie. “Straight people are terrified of dressing up!”
While hats never totally went away, what we're witnessing now is a rise in headwear as self-expression, particularly in regard to more feminine and avant-garde styles. Perhaps it was the natural next step, with the popularity of statement accessories and hyper-customisation. So, with all this in mind, how long do you think until the fedora starts trending again? From Reddit mods, to fashion girlies.
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