Yes, I know a watch is technically not a piece of jewellery, but when it looks as chic as bracelet watches – it definitely feels like you're wearing something decorative.
I can already feel the eyes of timepiece purists rolling their eyes, the same ones who went crazy over the AP x Swatch collab that took the world by storm just the other week. But if you're like me and the classic watch world feels like something too complicated to get into, then consider their fun, frivolous relative that's made for the girls, the gays and those few ambiguous allies (I'm looking at you Bad Bunny & Harry Styles). Welcome to the world of granny-inspired bracelet watches.
What is a bracelet watch?
Before defining a bracelet watch is, it's important to revisit the history of the wrist watch – which originated in 16th century as a piece of jewellery worn exclusively by women. In fact, pocket watches were de rigeur for men up until the beginning of the 20th century, which justifies the idea of a timepiece also being a piece of jewellery. With decorative straps and a delicate structure but with a practical element of timekeeping, bracelet watches are the epitome of this hybrid approach.
What differentiates a bracelet watch from the rest of the pack is its ability to elevate an outfit while confusing its audience. Is it a bracelet? Is it a watch? Well, it's both! From chains to bangles, the watch strap can take any form of jewellery (specifically, and as the name suggests, a bracelet). Some of the key luxury pieces that have established their spot as the hero entities in this world are the Cartier Baignore and the Bvlgari Serpenti, both symbols of ultimate luxury in the jewellery watch department. Available mostly in precious metals and sometimes embellished with diamonds, their price point might feel intimidating.
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Other luxury brands, like Gucci and Chanel, also have their own horses in this race. In fact, Gucci's gold-plated Play watch was probably at the forefront of this trend. A truly iconic 1980s design, which came with a box full of interchangeable bezels, was officially relaunched late last year after original vintage pieces became desirable, causing a massive surge in second-hand prices. It's also the first ever bracelet watch I ever encountered. Aged 6 or 7, I was allowed to play with a set courtesy of my mum's best friend. Changing those colourful bezels and trying to close the clasp on the rigid bangle-like strap has since become one of my core fashion memories. That OG Gucci Play retailed for around £200, while the relaunched version goes for over £2200. Despite the continued growing popularity (eBay reports searches on this piece are up 19% from last year), you can still find a solid selection on resale sites, where I nabbed one piece for under £100. Yes, my Gucci Play watch might be slightly scratched and scuffed, but it's still just as fab.
However, a bracelet watch doesn't have to be an investment worthy of a small (or large) car. In fact, both the high-street (Swarovski, Sekonda, Rosefield) and the second-hand market are overflowing with pieces that carry the same essence of delicate luxury at a fraction of the price.
How to find a pre-loved bracelet watch?
The easiest way to find the perfect piece is to make note of brands that are popular on the second-hand market and search for them online On pre-loved sites like eBay and Vinted, look out for names like Citizen, Seiko and Rotary, who have a vast selection of pieces, including gold-plated and sterling silver pieces that won't break the bank.
When it comes to their provenance, bracelet watches had a definite peak in popularity during the 1970s and 80s, so that's when a lot of the pieces date to. Though most of these will be battery-operated (and therefore have more potential for being broken, often as a result of having an old battery leaking in storage), others have a wind-up system which tends to be more reliable. Older pieces, dating back to the 1920s and even the Victorian era, can be pricier, but will be made in higher quality materials and will include more decorative details.
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Always look out for the length of the strap in the listing, as vintage pieces tend to be produced for daintier arms. However, if you find a piece you absolutely love, you can usually find an appropriate extender – thanks to those, I've been able to slip into some pretty delicate pieces despite my chunky wrists. While shopping IRL at second-hand stores and vintage markets might come with a slight markup, it's also a great way to ensure you can inspect the piece up close.
Though it might seem obvious, a factor that can be instrumental in the price of the piece will be its working order. And maybe you don't care about whether the watch shows actual time? In that case, search for bracelet watches that are being sold for parts as you will easily nab a total steal.
Ready to get in on the trend? Scroll to find 18 of my absolute favourite granny-inspired bracelet watches at every price point, new to preloved:
