No matter what your styling goals are, tailoring your product selection, tools, and techniques to your hair’s density is key. Figuring out how to style thin hair? The voluminous blowout of your dreams might just be one product swap or hot-tool hack away.
Whether you’ve always had thin hair or you’re noticing a change in density as you get older, there are plenty of ways to embrace your natural texture. Hair that’s naturally less heavy can hold more shape and bounce when styling, but maintaining a full-bodied look might take some extra coaxing. “The most common area of complaint in fine hair consultations is the hair appearing limp and lifeless,” says Bed Head creative director Philip Downing.
The good news? Philip says that there are plenty of pro tips and products that can help add volume, smoothness and definition to thin hair.
While you should be wary of miracle thickening claims (“It’s important to remember that our maximum hair thickness is fundamentally dictated by our genetics,” says Eleanore Richardson, a trichologist at Fulham Scalp & Hair Clinic), we’ve gathered all the expert tips to maximise your styling routine for thin hair.
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How to prep thin hair for styling
A few simple washday considerations can make all the difference when styling thin hair. If you have thin or fine hair (and especially if it’s straight) you may notice that it feels dirty or weighed-down sooner. “We typically say most thin or fine hair consumers will wash daily or every 48 hours,” Philip says. “The scalp oil that’s created—called sebum—can travel through the hair shaft a lot more efficiently on finer, smoother hair. And that’s what we perceive to the eye as oil or ‘grease.’”
If you’re struggling with flatness with thin hair, Vanessa Ocando, a celebrity hairstylist in New York City, recommends trying the double shampoo technique. “The first [shampoo] helps break up buildup and oils, while the second truly cleanses the scalp and hair. You’ll see more volume, bounce, and shine immediately,” she says.
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Strategising your conditioner application can also help with common thin hair complaints. “I always recommend applying conditioner from the mid-shaft down, or just on the ends, depending on your hair’s length and texture,” says Vanessa.
How to protect thin hair from heat
Heat damage leads to breakage that can exacerbate the appearance of limpness or loss of body in thin hair. “Heat protection is nonnegotiable no matter what the hair type,” Philip says, but the products that you reach for may vary based on your density. “When it comes to thin hair, we’ll typically veer away from oil, but if the hair warrants it, a little half pump in wet hair can go a long way as well,” he says.
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It’s especially important to tailor your protectant to your styling method for maximum efficacy. A lightweight spray is generally a good choice for thin hair, but Philip says to pay attention to whether yours is intended for wet styling (like Bed Head’s Some Like It Hot) or dry styling (like No Fry Zone).
How to style thin hair, according to pros
If your thin hair looks limp or stringy after air-drying, try mixing things up. Flip your head upside down and dry with a traditional hair dryer to create more root volume and body. For an extra boost, “Style your hair in the opposite direction of how you typically style it,” says Suzette Boozer, celebrity hairstylist and Dippity-Do curly hair expert. “For example, if you part your hair on the left, blow-dry or air-dry it going to the right. Once it’s completely dry, flip it back to your preferred part, and you’ll instantly notice more lift and body.”
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Adding volume is the easiest way to make thin hair look fuller. Look for volumising shampoos, conditioners, and root lifters to create a light, bounce-friendly base. If you’re styling a blowout or loose waves—both great options to add body—finish with a dry texture spray. It’ll add instant fullness and can easily be reactivated with a tousle throughout the day.
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For thin hair, dry shampoo can also do more than just refresh oily roots. “Typically dry shampoos contain silica, aluminum starch, and they are essentially absorbents,” Philip says. “But the great byproduct of those absorbents is that they give volume to the hair. So they actually become a great styling tool for fine hair consumers because it’s an easy cheat code on dry hair to achieve instant volume.”
Prefer a lower-volume look? There’s no better way to embrace your natural density—and skip the knots. If you’re going for sleek and swishy, add a smoothing blow-dry primer for an extra-smooth finish. If you like a little more texture, mermaid waves are a great choice for thin hair: You can apply a styling cream to add weight for that salty surfer finish.
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“We want to stay away from heavy products like oils or heavy dose serums,” Philip says. He notes that any creams used on thin hair (especially curls) should be lightweight. For thin curls, skip the heavy conditioning leave-ins for everyday wear, and opt for an airy mousse or hydrating styling spray instead.
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“Mousses can scare the general public because they can be quite intense,” Philip says. To start, he recommends Bed Head's Small Talk Thickening Cream: “It’s heat activated and volumising and it can be more approachable to beginners. We put this through wet hair and when you blow dry it, it just gives the most soft, organic swell to the hair.”
Your hair density shouldn’t dissuade you from trying out any haircut. But as a general rule of thumb, Philip says creating heavier lines can make thin hair easier to style.
“If the hair is really fine, we often work with a blunt cut. A blunt cut is the heaviest line you can do or can create, so that brings the feeling and the illusion of weight to the hair,” he says. If you’re considering adding layers or bangs, start gingerly: “I wouldn’t want to over layer fine hair, just because you’re going to reduce the overall mass,” Philip says.
This article originally appeared on Glamour US.
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