Erdem autumn / winter 2022 saw a bold change from the British-based, Canadian designer. In previous seasons, prim, elegant and obviously exquisite have been perfect adjectives to describe Erdem’s oeuvre. Erdem creates outfits ideal for garden parties or summer weddings, sprinkled with florals, lace trims and a femininity that is always backed up with nostalgic and accurate period inspiration (and beloved by the Duchess of Cambridge and Michelle Obama.)
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But Erdem autumn / winter 2022 saw a loucher and wilder mood take over the collection. A mainly monochrome palette of carbon black, charcoal grey and midnight blue was punctuated by moments of burnt orange, pale chartreuse and pastel-tones while pewter, silver and old gold sequin gowns looked as if they were unearthed from the dusty archives of a long forgotten 1930s vaudeville show… In fact, Erdem’s inspiration for the collection stemmed from some of that decade’s wildest spirits - a group of Berlin-based artists and dancers - and their imagined lives.
The looser silhouette dresses, which echoed the shape of that era, were made for after dark adventures while tweedy tailoring was daytime ready. Smart city coats, trouser suits and skirt suits were elevated with graduated metal beading that felt at once strong and sensual.
The dresses were stand-out catwalk moments, as well as being wishlist-worthy when they drop in stores from August… One of our most desired styles was made from merlot-toned jacquard with a full skirt, just perfect for swishing, and was layered with a black sequin bra top then styled with black opaque tights and burgundy patent double strap monk shoes. The practicality of the footwear literally grounded this dream of a dress.
Likewise, the cascades of silver sequins that were embroidered onto tulle in floral motifs over a floor skimming gown were breath-taking and deserve a truly epic location for it to be worn in.
Although, if sequins feel too much, a primrose silk V neck dress was subtly embroidered but as the model walked, panels of sequins were revealed under the pleated skirt...
Also of note was the presence of narrow silver sequin scarves that made every look so much more than ‘just’ a dress. Try adding one to your evening outfits right now to be ahead of the curve come autumn…
Read more from Glamour UK Fashion Director at large Alex Fullerton here or follow her on Instagram @alexandrafullerton
These dresses earn rave reviews from celebrities and fashion editors alike.
