If you've not heard the name Ellie Misner, buckle up! You're about to hear—and see—a lot more of this East London-based designer.
Lena Dunham, SZA, Tems, these are just some of the names that have worn her demi-couture (or “accessible couture”) gowns in recent months, crediting Ellie's ability to design for their curves, rather than in spite of them.
“Women come in all sizes and couture isn’t just for one type of person,” Ellie tells GLAMOUR about her approach to size-inclusive designs for which she's now known. Her ready-to-wear pieces range from UK 6 to 30. “I’ve grown up around all body types and I think it’s important to be able to dress anyone. It might be controversial, but I don’t think you can design clothes if you can’t design for any size, and make them feel amazing.”
Ellie graduated in the height of the pandemic and has been slowly but meaningfully building her label since. Her big break was arguably the moment Katy Perry wore the "Boleyn Two Piece" dress to the 2024 Billboard Women in Music event, the risqué, bum-baring look causing a stir online.
Ellie's designs often incorporate modern corseting, strategic cutouts and dramatic details, with inspiration ranging from Cruella de Vil to lampshades according to the designer. There's a campy-cheekiness that underpins her glamorous gowns, which makes each one-of-one piece a joy to behold.
Especially in a time when body diversity on the runway has regressed, the ‘90s waif look is back in style and Ozempic is running rampant, it feels more important than ever to have designers who design for all bodies.
We chat to rising designer talent Ellie Misner about expanding the connotations of couture, and showing her next collection at London Fashion Week this September.
What does 'couture' mean to you?
I am a demi-couture womenswear brand, which means everything is made to order in house by myself. For me, demi-couture is the space in between Haute Couture and ready-to-wear, a more accessible couture with a bit more fun. I think that it’s important to keep couture exclusive, it’s a true craft and not everyone can do it. I would love to one day be at the level where I could show at Couture Fashion Week in Paris, but I know I’m quite a way off. There is so much to learn and improve on.
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Who are some designers you look up to?
I really admire Daniel Roseberry, and I love Jonathan Anderson (newly-appointed creative director of Dior). I think they both have done impeccable things at their houses. There are too many to mention, but Galliano’s drapery is the stuff of gods, McQueen tailoring is divine, and Marc Jacobs is just so good. I think there are so many unbelievable young designers out there, too.
Why are you drawn to the corset?
Using corsetry as a base for most pieces ensures a great base and support for most body types. If I know the client has a certain figure, the design will aim to enhance or create a fun silhouette to showcase them best, and corsetry is an incredible tool for that.
What are some unusual places you've taken inspiration from?
My main inspiration for my most recent collection “I love lamp” was the decor I grew up around in my late grandparents’ houses, in particular, the Erté sketches that were in my Nana’s house that I now have in my studio, and a bunch of lamps and lampshades from my other late grandma. I love that sort of whimsical interior design mixed with the modern starkness of my studio, and these were a huge part of my design process when I was first sketching. Also it reminds me of the women of my life; my family has always been integral to my concepts.
I tend to use a lot of found objects in general, or repurposed fabrics like upholstery cottons. The Hoop (chandelier) dress was made from a shell lampshade that I found at a car boot sale about four years ago. I’ve been carrying it from studio to studio until I found a use for it about 8 studios later! I am also a huge beads hoarder.
Who are some of the celebs you've enjoyed working with?
I think I’ve been quite lucky with my clientele. Everyone has been very different, and usually I am not in direct contact with the celebrity themselves as I am speaking with their styling team. However, working with Jorja (Smith) was a great experience, she DM’d me a dress from my DC25 collection and we planned the custom look together. It was really relaxed, and she was an absolute pleasure. I just worked on a fab look for someone who was a dream, their stylist was so lovely and trusted me to do whatever I wanted, which is such a privilege.
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What has been a challenge while building your brand?
As someone who has created a network on my own, it’s taken me a while to find my people and I am lucky that I have some amazing people supporting me now, but I was really struggling beforehand doing this alone. I think it’s all so competitive that it’s hard to know who to speak to or ask for advice. Being in London is tough as it’s super expensive to exist, but to be totally transparent I don’t know what the solution is, most of us are working flat out just to stay afloat.
What's next?
I have been mainly working on customs at the moment, so unfortunately I cannot share what they are until they are made public, but I am about to begin working on my next demi couture collection. I want it to remain a surprise, so I won’t reveal too much, but I am aiming to showcase during London Fashion Week this September for the first time, so stay tuned for that. It'll be a big birthday celebration for me too, as I am a September baby—there's a little easter egg on the collection!
