The DM:
Dear derm,
I’m completely new to LED skincare. Where should I start and is it worth the
investment?
Lara S
The Derm:
Dr Maryam Zamani, Oculoplastic surgeon, facial aesthetics doctor and founder of MZ Skin.
The Diagnosis:
Dear Lara,
LED is an excellent way to elevate your home skincare routine. Light-therapy is beneficial to so many, as it can treat a plethora of skincare concerns from acne to premature ageing. LED has so many clinically proven benefits to help decrease inflammation and increase wound healing while rejuvenating the skin. All it takes is finding the best LED face mask for you and frequent and consistent use.
Here's what you need to know…
With decades of research behind LEDs (or Light Emitting Diodes), originally developed for astronauts to help with tissue healing and repair, their purpose is to help accelerate cell renewal and help improve a number of skin concerns. If you want to get science-y: LED uses photo biomodulation [a cellular response to a therapeutic stimulus] to trigger fibroblast proliferation [which helps form connective tissue], collagen synthesis, growth factors and extracellular matrix production, all of which help reduce visible signs of ageing.
The colour of LED you use depends on what your skin goals are. Different wavelengths of light can be used. For instance…
- Red light: strengthens and firms the skin to stimulate the production of collagen and elastin.
- Blue light: helps decongest and clarify skin.
- Green light: reduces the appearance of hyperpigmentation.
- Yellow light: soothes the skin from sensitivity and redness.
- White and Infrared light: is used for a complete skin rejuvenation to repair, soothe and calm the skin.
Clinical studies are strongest for the combination use of red with infrared light (to help with skin rejuvenation, collagen production and decreased inflammation) and red with blue light to treat acne.
I recommend using LED devices 3-5 times a week for the time recommended on cleansed skin as a pick me up or as a treatment depending on the skin concern. If you're using LED to treat a medical issue, the LED should be used four times a week for three to four weeks to see impactful long-term results. Results depend on the number of consecutive treatments done. For the treatment of acne the best results are seen after treating for four days a week, for six weeks. For the treatment of fine lines and wrinkles, the best results are seen after treating for four days a week, for a minimum of four weeks. Maintenance treatments should then be continued as required, according to lifestyle and skin condition.
LED is a bright source of light and should be avoided in those that suffer from seizures or epilepsy as bright lights can precipitate an episode. Similarly, bright light can trigger migraines and certain medications can be photo-sensitising with LED.
LED devices are a wonderful way to elevate skincare at home. I recommend using skincare after the LED treatment. It can be used on all skin types and can also be used to help wound healing after in office procedures (such as peels, lasers, micro-needling, PRP), post facial surgery or to help with a scar or wound healing.
After each use, the LED can be cleansed with an alcohol wipe or cleaned with a simple washcloth. As it is placed on cleansed skin, there should be no build-up of products.
I always recommend using an LED device with proper FDA and CE clearance as these are medical devices. There should be a target amount of energy delivered in a particular amount of time. The number of LEDs used are less important than the total dosage delivered [so it's important to use your LED device for the amount of time specified by that tool]. The LightMax LED 2.0 by MZ Skin is the only FDA cleared patented device to treat both acne and promote skin rejuvenation. The dose for this device is specific, so use the mask as directed 10 minutes daily on cleansed dry skin (without skincare).
For more of GLAMOUR's favourite LED face masks, check out our tried-and-tested review of the very best.
Got a skin question for our derms? Drop us a DM at @glamouruk.
