Devon is somewhere I've always felt most at peace. I could wax lyrical about the beautiful coastline scenery, rolling green fields and craggy cliffs – and don't get me started on those turquoise waters – but really, it's the unspoiled, unfussy vibes I keep going back for. Give this highly-strung, anxiety-prone editor a couple of days swapping her daily commute for daily beach walks down South, and you might just find she returns home a new woman.
Another thing Devon does exceedingly well? Charming boutique hotels – and my latest find, the Cary Arms & Spa at pretty Babbacombe Bay, near Torquay, is a certified gem.
Sea views don't come much better than this. It's not very often that a UK staycation comes with its very own secluded cove and left-to-right ocean views, does it?! Turns out, the Cary Arms is home to a pretty exclusive spot on the Devon coastline. Found within one third of a trio of sun-trapped bays along the English riviera (which are something of a best-kept secret to savvy locals), the panoramic sea vistas are only the tip of the iceberg.
The Cary Arms Hotel & Spa at a glance:
- A historic inn dating back to the 1800s with boutique rooms
- Offers some of the best sea views in Devon, with panoramic blue ocean surrounding it
- There is a small spa pool and treatment rooms
- Accommodation includes chic bedrooms, suites and beach huts, all with the incredible aforementioned sea views
- All rooms include a king size bed or larger
- All stays include a delicious breakfast served in the traditional pub
- Within easy reach of coastal walks, as well as nearby Torquay
The Cary Arms – or the ‘Inn on the Beach’, as it's long been known – actually dates back hundreds of years. The centre of the hotel is the original pub, a classic building with quaint maritime features. Guests arrive via the entrance to said pub, which is surrounded by a sunny terrace and those panoramic views – while the hotel's various rooms and suites are found around the grounds. On arrival, I was instantly charmed by the dark wood details and cosy seating, which felt very on-brand for my very-quiet, very-British staycation plans.
The location
Since I was particularly craving a switched-off stay, the Cary Arms offered everything I was looking for. You'll find the hotel itself at the bottom of a winding road down to the coast, where it's surrounded by only a few houses (and, well, the sprawling ocean ahead). The town of Babbacombe, perched above, feels a world away – though it's still easily reachable via a short car ride (or the quaint Babbacombe Cliff Railway, which carries its passengers from neighbouring Oddicombe Beach up to the town above).
But as for me, I was perfectly happy spending a couple of days within the sunny corner of Babbacombe Bay, from where my husband and I spent some time boating around some of Devon's other nearby spots such as Dartmouth and Brixham. FYI, if you ever get the opportunity: you've got a pretty good chance of spotting dolphins along this patch of Devon coastline. We were joined by a playful pod within the stretch of sea near Berry Head – and to say it was special is an understatement. In fact, just sitting on the picturesque terrace at the Cary Arms might present you the opportunity to witness some of the local wildlife, from seals to dolphins.
The room
We stayed in one of the hotel's beach huts, which are found a short walk away from the main hotel and pub – and offer a slightly more modern vibe. With a kingsize bedroom above on a mezzanine floor (and a perfectly-placed porthole window overlooking the ocean), there's a roomy lounge area and a luxury bathroom with a rainfall walk-in shower, too.
But best of all was the accompanying private terrace in front of our hut, where those perfect sea views awaited. On sunny summer days, it's the ideal spot to set up on a sun lounger and keep an eye out for those dolphins – but even when temperatures were a little chillier during our stay, I happily wrapped up with a blanket and spent a treasured hour or so with my book and the lapping water ahead.
Of course, there are other options for accommodation at the Cary Arms – from more traditional bedrooms to family suites and even some nearby coastal cottages for bigger groups.
The spa
The beautiful spa area with sea views was one of the main draws of The Cary Arms for me when I arranged our stay. On sunny days in the spring and summer, guests can relax on sun loungers within the pretty terrace area, or go for a dip in the bubbling spa pool – there's also a steam room and sauna, and a spacious treatment room where you can choose from a plentiful selection of treatments using holistic spa brand Gaia. My zen was unmatched after my massage and facial.
But my one note? The spa area itself is a little tired. The small gym room could use an update; in fact the whole wellness side of the hotel could use some TLC in general. If you're someone who likes a full-service, modern gym and spa during your stay, this may not be for you.
Food & drink at the Cary Arms
After spending our first afternoon wandering along the local coastline and – to be honest – guzzling warm cups of tea and biscuits in our cosy beach hut, we booked into the Cary Arms' historic inn and restaurant for dinner.
We were craving fresh, hearty, local food – and that's exactly what we got. Unsurprisingly, seafood is the hero here; think sweet crab and scallops from nearby Brixham to start, and unsurprisingly, the fish and chips is top tier. Even better, you can spend the evening overlooking the sea views from a number of spots in the charming bar area, with its original stone walls and comfortingly low, beamed ceilings – or even outside on the terrace, where we were treated to a stunning Devon sunset and glowing pink skies.
I'd be remiss not to mention the Cary Arms' impressive breakfast offering, too, which we enjoyed in the very same bar area every morning of our stay. Room rates include a freshly-cooked breakfast menu – as well as all your continental classics – with choices including a full English (of course), fresh kippers, pancakes and eggs Benedict. Everything you could want to start your morning during a seaside staycation, essentially.
Whatever your honeymoon style, our comprehensive guide has got you covered.
What to do in Babbacombe
Since I have family in nearby Exmouth, I've spent some time exploring the coastline around Babbacombe, and can conclude that it's home to some of the most picturesque coves and scenery in Devon. If you're keen on watersports and the like, this is your moment – the nearby waters are popular with water skiers, and the area is known for its scuba diving opportunities, too.
If dry land's more your thing, you can equally enjoy the surrounding scenery on one of the many local walking routes; keen hikers will love the coastal trail to Torquay, taking in some more beautiful coves along the way. Plus, the pretty fishing port of Brixham is just about a half-hour drive away – while picturesque Dartmouth, with its antique shops and popular seafood restaurants, will take around an hour in the car.
The Cary Arms & Spa: my verdict
I'd definitely recommend the Cary Arms & Spa for anyone looking for a relaxed staycation in my beloved Devon. Yes, it's rustic in places – that's part of its charm – but those sea views will take your breath away every time.
And if the busy beaches of Salcombe and Exmouth don't take your fancy, Babbacombe's quaint coves are bound to call you. I left the Cary Arms feeling extra grateful – not only for the warm weather and blue skies we enjoyed during our stay, but for the opportunity to discover a lesser-known part of the coastline that I love.
Room rates start at £215 per night.
