If you’re looking for a low-maintenance way to lighten your hair, you might be deciding between balayage and highlights. If so, know that “balayage vs highlights” is a common debate for those looking to switch up their look.
First, let’s answer the most pressing and common FAQ when it comes to balayage vs highlights: Yes, there really is a difference between the two hair lightening techniques. That doesn’t mean that one is necessarily better than the other, though — it simply comes down to each individual’s preferences and hair goals, as well as hair type and honestly, patience. There’s a lot to consider.
Still, that doesn’t mean it has to be hard to choose your preferred style. Ahead, see everything you need to know about balayage vs highlights, including how they differ and which is best for your hair. Now, you can head to the salon with confidence and leave with the colour you love.
What is balayage?
Despite chatter online that balayage is “out,” this couldn’t be further from the truth: Countless celebrities and style icons still swear by the style. As for what it actually is? “Balayage is a freehand hair colouring technique in which the product is applied directly to the surface of the hair without using foils or caps,” Min Kim, celebrity colourist and L’Oréal Professionnel global ambassador, tells GLAMOUR. “It creates a natural, sun-kissed look that’s less uniform than traditional highlights.”
The word “balayage” is actually French for “sweeping,” Min adds, which is essentially how the colour is applied: “By sweeping it onto the hair in a way that results in soft, blended transitions between the lighter and darker pieces.” Thus, “it’s great for clients looking for low-maintenance, natural-looking hair colour.”
What are highlights?
While the word “highlights” might call to mind the super-chunky hair pieces of the early 2000s, the style has come a long way. “Highlights are a hair colouring technique where sections of hair are lightened to create contrast with the base colour,” says Chase Kusero, co-founder of IGK Hair Care. “This is typically done using foils or caps to isolate small strands of hair, which are then treated with a lightening agent.”
Highlights also can and often do vary in thickness, placement, and tone, ranging from subtle and natural to bold and dramatic (think: early 2000s). “They add dimension and depth to the hair, enhancing texture and creating the appearance of more volume,” Chase adds.
For what it’s worth, despite what many may think, colourists are definitely still fans of the look. “I personally enjoy the resurgence of classic highlighted styles,” says Renée Valerie, director of R+COLOR Education and R+COLOR Collective member. “With balayage having dominated for so long, it’s refreshing to see a growing interest in the detailed results that can be achieved with traditional highlighting techniques.”
Balayage vs Highlights: The Key Differences
According to Renée, the key distinction between highlights and balayage lies in the application method: “Highlights typically use foils to isolate sections of hair, while balayage is applied in an open-air technique."
Because of how they’re applied, the results vary, too: “Balayage is relatively low maintenance while highlights require much more maintenance and upkeep, as regrowth at the roots can be more noticeable, requiring more frequent touch-ups,” Chase explains, adding that balayage tends to look “soft, blended, and more subtle with a gradual lightening effect” while highlights are “more structured and defined, with distinct lighter sections that start from the roots.”
There are also variations in how each style grows out: “Balayage has a more graceful grow out as it lives in a vertical spaces versus highlights which grows out horizontally,” says Min, who notes that because of this, balayage is generally ideal for someone looking for a lived-in, low-maintenance look, whereas highlights might be more suited for clients who want more pronounced lightness.
Balayage Vs Highlights: Which is right for me?
When it comes to choosing which technique to pursue, Lorena M. Valdes, a colourist at Maxine Salon, suggests considering your hair goals as well as your hair’s texture and density. “If your density gets thinner towards the ends, it may be a candidate for balayage or a combination, since highlights can result in a brighter overall look quicker but may need a few sessions to get the ends fully saturated,” she explains.
On the other hand, Renée’s choice between the two typically depends on the level of lightness and the desired final look. Just remember, the lighter you go, the more upkeep required, which can potentially be more damaging on hair. Min thinks the best way to decide is to think about how much maintenance you want to commit to, the overall look you’re going for, and your existing colour history. (This is especially important if you box dye your hair.)
“If you want something that grows out more naturally and requires fewer touch-ups, balayage is ideal, but if you prefer a brighter, more uniform colour, or if you like a noticeable change between your base colour and the lighter pieces, highlights are a great choice,” Min says, adding that sometimes a combination of both works really well, especially if you want dimension but with pops of brightness.
“Balayage works well for almost all hair types, but it’s especially great for those with medium to long hair, as the technique really shines when there’s length to work with,” says Min. “It’s also ideal for people who want low-maintenance colour since the softer transitions in balayage mean you don’t need to touch up as often as with traditional highlights. It’s perfect for someone looking for a natural, sun-kissed effect.”
“Highlights are fantastic for anyone looking to add dimension and brightness to their hair. This technique works well on all hair types, but it’s especially beneficial for those with shorter hair or those who prefer a more structured, uniform lightness throughout,” says Min.
“If you like your colour to be noticeable, or if you’re aiming for a high-contrast look, highlights are a great option. It’s also a great option if someone has previous all over (dark) colour as the foils will help to break through some of the built-up colour better in some cases than with balayage (depends on the overall desired result).”
Experts universally advise consulting with a hair care professional. “To determine which technique is most flattering, it’s essential to have a detailed consultation with your colourist,” Renée asserts. “They can help assess what aligns with your goals and is best suited for your lifestyle and maintenance commitment.”
Maintaining balayage and highlights
While the application techniques may differ, balayage and highlights maintenance is pretty much the same. “For any lightening service, proper home care is crucial to maintaining your colour and protecting your investment,” says Renée, whose colour care products of choice include R+Co Sunset Blvd Daily Blonde Shampoo and Conditioner and Gemstone Color Shampoo and Conditioner.
“For maintaining both balayage and highlights, I always recommend a sulphate-free shampoo and conditioner that is colour-safe,” Min says. “One of my go-to products is the L’Oréal Professionnel Metal Detox – it neutralises metals in the hair (which we all have thanks to water), resulting in stronger hair that’s less dull and more manageable.” For clients with blonde or lighter highlights however, Kim suggests a purple shampoo like the L’Oréal Professionnel Serie Expert Silver Shampoo to neutralise any unwanted brassiness.
“Additionally, a good hair mask like the L’Oréal Professionnel Absolut Repair Mask is essential to keep hair nourished and hydrated between salon visits,” she adds.
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Danielle Sinay is associate beauty editor at GLAMOUR. Follow her on Instagram @daniellesinay.
This feature originally appeared on GLAMOUR US.
