Beauty Trends

We decipher whether stem cells in skincare is scientific brilliance or just beauty bullsh*t

Scientific genius or total beauty gimmick?

19 June 2018

Let's not beat around the bush. When it comes to skincare ingredients, there are hardworking heroes (hyaluronic acid, retinol and salicylic acid, to name a few...) and then there are hyped-up fads.

So when it comes to stem cells in skincare, is it scientific brilliance or bullsh*t?

Plant stem cells vs skin stem cells

Before we get stuck in, it's important to understand that the stem cells used in skincare come from plants, not from humans.

Dr Philip Levy, Founder of Dr Levy Switzerland, says plant-derived stem cells are used because they have the extraordinary ability to self-renew.

He believes that because they are derived from plants, the stem cells used in his products can powerfully stimulate our own stem cells, like those in the dermis, safely.

"The issue with using animal or human-derived stem cells as ingredients is that they can, even in tiny numbers, over-stimulate our cells, and transmit diseases."

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Why are stem cells used in skincare?

Anti-ageing is, in general, the main aim of products that contain plant stem cells.

Dr Levy says they are included in skincare products to 'energise' and 're-boost' the dermal skin cells. They help to kickstart rejuvenation by "activating the original source of our own powerful defence against skin ageing; the dermal stem cells."

And therefore, "they can function again as they used to when our skin's quantity and quality of collagen was at its best."

Dr Levy says as we get older, our dermal stem cells don't change in quantity, their activity does. Therefore it's not about stimulating dermal cell production, but dermal cell activity.

On the flip side, Paula's Choice published an article citing that while stem cells can help skin look younger and defend against environmental aggressors, this is purely due to the antioxidant properties they possess - not because they stimulate the dermis.

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So are stem cells just antioxidants?

According to Paula's Choice, in order for stem cells to work as stem cells, they need to be alive. And by the time they're processed and put into skincare, these 'stimulation' claims are long gone.

HOWEVER! Dr Levy says his ArganCellActiv formula is now patented internationally because it is the first product proven to stimulate essential dermal stem cells.

We say? Watch this space.

The research of using plant cells in skincare is still quite minimal, but it's looking promising. And even if it doesn't turn out to be a miracle ingredient, your skin will still benefit from the plant's antioxidant properties.