Mad Men Masterclass
The show's Costume Designer, and Maidenform's Wardrobe Expert, talks exclusively to GLAMOUR.COM about how to add retro glamour to your wardrobe, shop for vintage fashion and change your silhouette using underwear trickery.
Season 5 of Mad Men signals the return of career-girl wardrobe Peggy Olsen, yummy mummy Betty Francis and sassy secretary Joan Harris. The fashion desk interviews Costume Designer Janie Bryant on the new look and how to copy the retro fabulousness of the hit show.
What is your favourite 'look' from the series?
I have many favorites, not just one!
1: Betty in season 2- long blue brocade and organza gown.
2: Betty in season 3- White and pink lace maternity dress for Derby Day party
3: Betty in season 2 ivory brocade 2 piece ensemble with mink fur trim.
4: Betty in season 3- Silk brocade butterfly gown with white leather opera length gloves
"My favorite character is always changing from episode to episode, depending on what is happening in the storyline." Surely, Jon Hamm is a rather dashing man to dress though, Janie?!
Janie is also very proud of the following looks:
1: Joan in season 4- Red Christmas dress.
2: Joan in season 3- Purple sailor collar dress.
3: Joan in season 4- Turquiose ruffle collared dress.
4: Jane in season 4- Chevron striped brocade dressing gown.
5: Jane in season 2- Black and white 2 piece ensemble with Givenchy hat.
Peggy Olsen, a.k.a Elisabeth Moss, gets a style update in Mad Men Season 5.
How have you updated the Mad Men costume design?
Every season I always approach the costume design with the integrity of the characters. With each season the costume design reflects the intention that change takes time and it takes time for people to change.
Mad Men's Costume Designer, Janie adds that "some characters are more modern than others, and some characters are stuck in an earlier period. Their costume reflects each of their stories."
Who is the most interesting character to dress in the new series?
People love to ask me this question! I think it is because the audience identifies with the characters and have their favorites.
Joan's gold pen pendant has stood the test of time and is still in the series. Phew!
New season, sharper suits, juicer plots. Ladies, the boys are back!
Do you have any rules for accessorising?
Janie says...Accessories can change an outfit in an instant: necklaces, cuffs, bracelets, earrings, chunky cocktail rings, scarves, purses, shoes, hair ornaments and belts. My rule is to experiment with accessories and discover what works best for you.
Frank Ockenfels/AMCWhat shopping commandments do you stick to when hunting for vintage
fashion?
Janie says...I always look at the condition of the garment. Are there any holes or tears? Are the seams strong? Is there any discoloration or fading? Is it a garment that I would want to redesign or keep as is? To find my vintage treasures for my personal life or inspiration to design my Janie Bryant Mod collection, I don't stick to one decade I just seek out what is special to me.
Original advert from the official Maidenform 1950s and 1960s archives.
Frank Ockenfels/AMCWhat are the three key wardrobe staples of the apple, pear, hourglass and ruler-shaped figure?
Janie says...Whatever your shape, it's really about wearing what makes you feel sexy, comfortable and confident. Finding a great little black dress is definitely a must for any woman since it's such a versatile piece. It's just about finding the style that best suits you. I love Flexees by Maidenform's "Fat Free Dressing Slip Dress" because it has built-in shapewear- so no one has to know you have some help.
Frank Ockenfels/AMCWhich dress shapes generate the look of the 50s and 60s?
Janie says...The 50s and 60s dress shapes were all about femininity and there is nothing more feminine than the hourglass silhouette that many dresses of that period accentuated.
How can a GLAMOUR.COM girl change her silhouette?
Janie says...Using the proper shape wear and undergarments is the easiest way to
create the silhouette you're going for. Waist-nippers can create that sexy hourglass shape while push-up bras like Maidenform's Ultimate Push-Up Bra can add up to 2 cup sizes for an even more voluptuous look.
Original advert from the official Maidenform 1950s and 1960s archives.
Rex FeaturesIf I wanted to channel Peggy, what should I wear?
Janie says...Checks, plaids, pleats polka dots, peter pan collars, big bows at the neck and kitten heels.
Carin Baer/AMCIf I wanted to channel Betty, what should I wear?
Janie says...Pearls, matching handbag and shoes especially lizard or crocodile, shirtwaist dress with a full skirt, gloves, and red lipstick.
Frank Ockenfels/AMCIf I wanted to channel Joan, what should I wear?
Janie says...Jewelled toned sheaths fitted to perfection, over sized handbag with a printed scarf tied on the handle with pumps to match, and a pin necklace.
Rex FeaturesHow much does underwear affect our wardrobe? Could you give examples of the right bra shapes for certain items of clothing?
Janie says...Intimate apparel is the foundation of every outfit and it affects how clothes fit and how they drape on the body. I always like to have a wardrobe of bras to pair with my outfits in the 3 basic colours- black, white & nude. It's definitely important to have options like a strapless bra, a push-up, a convertible bra and a T-shirt bra so you're prepared, whatever you wear. We can’t forget the power of shapewear. Shapewear shapes and smoothes the body making you look better in your clothes. Some great options come from Maidenform’s Custom Lift collection and Easy Up shapewear collection!
Original advert from the official Maidenform 1950s and 1960s archives.
What are your top three tips on adding a retro 60s edge to outfits?
Janie says...Layers of pearl necklaces worn with a dramatic brooch.
Matching handbag and shoes.
Wrist-length leather white gloves.
Original advert from the official Maidenform 1950s and 1960s archives.
Frank Ockenfels/AMCWhich outfits have you custom designed for Joan, Peggy and Betty that are your all-time favourites?
Janie says...Joan- Her red Christmas party dress in, Season 4.
Betty- Her bright aqua blue Chinese brocade gown with rhinestone and pearl trim, Season 2.
Peggy- Her red and cream dress with geometrical patterned blouse worn underneath with a matching red belt.
Frank Ockenfels/AMCBefore a Mad (Wo)Man leaves the house, how does she complete her outfit?
Janie says...One last look in the mirror and she gives herself a wink and a smile.
Shop the Mad Men trend now
Janie Bryant’s book The Fashion File: Advice, Tips, and Inspiration from the Costume Designer of Mad Men, is out now. Published by Grand Central Life & Style.
Enjoy the show. Swoon
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