I've just discovered the LOC method and it's the best way to care for my mixed-race afro hair
Now that summer is finally on the horizon, it's time for our curly hair to be let out into the big wide world – but if, like me, you have afro hair that's become quite dry and thirsty over lockdown, our extra delicate strands may need a little TLC beforehand.
But growing up as a biracial woman, I have struggled to find haircare tips or styling advice for my mixed-race afro hair; those curls that go beyond waves. Afro-curly hair has long been deemed too complicated or too difficult to look after, often lazily lumped together from loose curls to textured coils in the hair and beauty industry.
Thankfully, things are changing. Now we're entering a time in which you can find individual care for your own unique hair type.
What is the LOC method?
Enter the LOC method; something I've only recently discovered but that has totally transformed my hair game. LOC stands for ‘liquid/ leave-in, oil and cream,’ the main products which, when put together correctly, can give your curls all they need to stay moisturised.
"The LOC method is used to help hair that is particular kinky or afro in its texture to retain moisture whilst being particularly effective for those with low porosity hair," explains Florence Johnson, co-owner of SIMPLYGorgeous hair salon.
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How do I do it?
The LOC process is simple: you condition your hair first, then add your oil of choice to seal, before finishing with a cream or gel to define. You can adjust the products around to fit your hairs’ needs; others might need more gel or less oil, it's flexible to you.
"The method is best done immediately after you’ve washed and deep-conditioned your hair," says Florence, who breaks the method down as follows:
Apply your leave in conditioner which should have a liquid- or lotion-like texture, so that it penetrates the hair shaft more effectively.
Next, use a light oil such almond, jojoba or sweet almond oil. This will help seal the conditioner ingredients from the leave-in whilst also supplying additional nourishing benefits.
The last step – which can be optional – is to apply a cream or butter on top as an extra form of sealant. This is not essential however as too much product layering in one go can be detrimental to the health of your hair by weighing down and encouraging build-up.
What do I need?
First of all, before you can decide the best products for you, you need to work out your hair porosity – your hair's ability to absorb and hold on to water molecules. The rule of thumb is that the curlier your hair is, the more porous it tends to be. But you can also try the water trick: Leave a piece of hair in a glass of room temperature water, and if the hair floats it has low porosity, and if it sinks it has high porosity.
If your hair has a higher hair porosity, it will need products which are more moisturising and are heavier sealants. If your hair is wavy or your curls are looser, you'll want to opt for products that are the lightest weight possible.
Where can I find inspo?
There is such a strong community of people with curly hair that want to share their tips and tricks, guiding their audience on how to look after their natural hair – below are some of our favourite curly hair influencers...
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Here are some of our favourite LOC method products to keep curls defined, nourished and bouncy...
Wash Day Duo, £54, Bread Beauty Supply
Whatever your curl type, the guys at Bread have got you covered, and this kit has everything you need to boss the LOC method: hair wash that doesn't tangle; gloss-boosting oil; conditioning hair mask and a scrunchie that's gentle on hair.
Twisted Sista Amazing Dream Curl Gel,
£5.89£3.92, SuperdrugBeautiful curl definition and intensely hydrated hair, right this way. Coconut, avocado and almond oils lock in moisture while the liquid-gel formula holds style and shape for up to 48 hours. Plus, it smells divine.
Shea Moisture Raw Shea Butter Restorative Conditioner, £10.99, Boots
This reparative and deeply moisturising conditioner is perfect for your first step – to apply as a leave-in, simply work a dime-sized amount through the hair and continue to step 2.
Quench – Moisture Intensive Leave-In Conditioner, £8.06, Aunt Jackie's
Shea butter and olive oil quench hair's thirst without being heavy or bulky.
This product is constantly selling out so make sure to get your hands on it while it's in stock – it has a great hold on tighter curls without being too crunchy!
Treatment Duo, £32.85, Moroccanoil
Perfect for the second step in your routine, this deeply nourishing duo always leaves my hair brilliantly shiny.
Phytodefrisant Botanical Straightening Balm, £16.99, Phyto
I know many hairstylists that use this cream on set because it's amazing for curl definition, protects from heat and keeps hair manageable.
Moisturising Curly Hair Oil, £14.99, The Wild Curl
A cult classic that contains known moisturisers – like like coconut oil and avocado oil – to penetrate the hair shaft for healthier, bouncier curls.
Used as a conditioner, hair mask or leave-in conditioner, this rich cream leaves hair up to 4 times smoother after just one use, according to a Garnier survey.
