The AW13 Backstage Beauty Reporter – New York
GLAMOUR's Junior Beauty Writer Sarah Jossel goes backstage at New York Fashion Week AW13 to bring you all the latest hair and beauty trends, hot off the catwalk.
Rex FeaturesAnd we’re back! GLAMOUR’s Junior Beauty Writer Sarah Jossel is packing her bags and getting ready to bring you the beauty lowdown from New York, London, Milan and Paris fashion week. Check in for daily updates on hair, make up, nails, street style, new model alerts, the biggest beauty secrets and the latest product launches… Bring on AW13 and a whole new set of beauty rules. First Stop - The Big Apple. See you there!
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Rex Features#NYFW – Fail
Here's the situation. I'm packed, my schedule is written, GLAMOUR's backstage access has been confirmed and I'm ready to bring you live updates from New York.
There's just one problem... All flights to New York have been cancelled!!
But I guess most of you already know that as every fashionista has tweeted their disapproval that a blizzard would dare get in their way of making it to the 'frow.'
I mean how selfish can snow be right?
So, happy Friday and hopefully my next post will be from New York – we just need a beauty miracle!
WennDay 1 - Singing in the rain
Good morning from a very grey New York City! We've flown through a snow blizzard, trekked through the rain and are now battling it backstage. All in the name of beauty, right?
First stop... Carolina Herrera.
Day 1- Carolina Herrera
And we're in with a bang - Kisses from Karlie backstage at Carolina Herrera. Hair by Orlando Pita and make-up by Diane Kendal.
Model of the moment and our favourite! - here's Cara showcasing Carolina Herrera's 1940's inspired hair and the fresh faced beauty look.
Last season nude nails ruled the runway; will AW13 follow suit? "We're painting nails and toes in Essie's Ladylike polish (£9.95)," says lead Essie nail expert Gina Edwards. "Think chic, sophisticated and - well - ladylike."
And here is Dutch beauty Josephine Skriver showcasing the très chic nude nails.
Unsure if you recognise Josephine? That might be because she's dyed her blonde locks a gorgeous rich brown hue.
Day 1 - Donna Karan New York
Smokin' Hot...
... today at Donna Karan. "It's a smoky eye with a twist," says make-up artist Charlotte Tilbury. "It's all about the lids. I'm sweeping on MAC’s Blackground Paint Pot (£14.50) and then dabbing Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream (£25) on top for a sheeny finish.
And after all her hard work here's Charlotte Tilbury having her well deserved 11 o'clock Diet Coke break.
Inspection Time
There's no cutting corners if you're on Charlotte Tilbury’s make-up team. Here she is using a flashlight to inspect the girls’ final looks.
It's all in the detail ladies...
Some Familiar Faces
Look who we've spotted backstage in the Big Apple... Britain's nail queen Marian Newman and the one and only Adam Slee.
"I'm using MAC Nail Lacquer in Quiet Time (£10) today," says Newman. "This season it's about keeping it simple and chic; real nails for real people." Sounds good to us Marian.
Day 1 - 3.1 Phillip Lim
Are you ready?
From major eye action at Donna Karan to a wintry statement lip at 3.1 Phillip Lim.
"I've mixed NARS Kenya lip pencil (£15.50) with NARS Mambo eye pencil (£16) to create a brown toned lip," says make-up artist Francelle Daly. "She's an uptown girl with a downtown boyfriend."
Nails Galore
"Can you believe the girls have open-toe shoes for AW13?" exclaims Essie nail expert Michelle Saunders. "On the toes I'm painting a coat of Essie's No Place like Chrome (£7.99) and adding a shade Called Over the Top (£7.99). The two layers give a 3D, car-paint effect."
Day 1 - Marc by Marc Jacobs
"Dear all, we regret to inform you..." Is how the news was broken to most of us that Marc Jacobs was postponing his shows because of Blizzard Nemo. Can you imagine our excitement when we heard Marc by Marc Jacobs was rescheduled for when we were in town?
With Guido Palau from Redken on hair and Dick Page from Shiseido doing makeup... This was always going to be a treat.
"Think glamour," says make-up artist Dick Page. Our thoughts? Easy. That's all we think about! "This look is a neutral eye with a bold lip. I've mixed Shiseido’s new Lacquer Rouge lip glosses in Sanguine (coming September 2013) and Drama (£23) to create the ideal red pout," adds Page.
Curly Sue
Are you ready to hear about the manes at Marc by Marc Jacobs? "She's a classic woman who's a touch eccentric," says Guido Palau. I'm adding a lot of Redken Guts (£8) to make the curls hold, tonging sections and brushing them out. Result? A fun, retro hairdo!"
Behind the scenes
Want to know what models do while waiting for hair and make-up? Build card towers - of course!
Day 2 - Victoria, Victoria Beckham
Its 8am, the sun is shining and the coffee is flowing. We're finally in the swing of things; first up - Victoria Beckham's presentation.
"She's a kooky art student," says Anthony Turner (L'Oreal Professionnel) "Victoria was really involved and wanted natural, beautiful and intelligent looking girls. Each model is individual; we're working with what they've got rather than that uniform, robotic feel."
Smile! You're on GLAMOUR's camera.
Here's hair stylist Anthony Turner in action at VB's show.
Day 2 - Rodarte
Tis the season to rock a nail? It's sure looking that way.
"Today we're doing an ombre effect French manicure," says Sally Hansen’s nail team. "All the nails are being painted in a nude Sally Hansen nail polish. And then each nail will have different coloured metallic tips."
A classic French mani with an edgy twist - we like!
Princess Hair
"The hair today is ultra girly, with an undone, textured feel," says Odile Gilbert for John Frieda. "I'm tonging the hair and braiding each side. We're creating a rose where the hair meets and finishing with one more braid."
Odile’s advice: Think cool princess.
In true Rodarte style all the girls had crown accessories.
Key products to get the look :
Frizz-Ease Curl Reviver Styling Mousse (£5.29)
Frizz-Ease Moisture Barrier Hairspray (£5.59)
Frizz-Ease Hair Serum Thermal Protection Formula (£6.29)
360 Degrees of Gorgeous Hair
Can you tell how much we love the Rodarte hair?
Have a look at the barbed wire headband designed by the sisters themselves.
Beach Life
"I know it's Autumn/Winter but this look is totally beach inspired," says make-up genius James Kaliardos. "I want it to look like flecks of mascara have fallen underneath the eyes. For skin I'm creating a perfect finish with the new NARS Radiant Creamy Concealers, (coming in April 2013, £21) and NARS Luminous Moisture Cream (£42).”
Unusual for fall but we love it. And who says runway has to be real life?
Day 2 - Badgley Mischka
Iconic superstars... is how make-up maverick Tom Pecheux described the girls at Badgley Mischka. "Think Alfred Hitchcock glamour. I'm doing classic matte skin with taupe coloured contouring. On the eyes there's false lashes on the inner corners, baby blue liner along the lower lash line and white pencil for an opening effect."
At this point nail superstar Deborah Lippmann walks past. "Have you seen the nails?" Asks Pecheux. "Because they're the best I've ever seen."
And on to nails we go...
Spotted: New Nail Trend
Tom Pecheux had a point. The nails at Badgley Mischka really were something to see.
The look: Matte nails with a sheen. Who would have thought?
Try it yourself in late 2013 when Deborah Lippmann’s Red Silk Boxers nail polish will be released.
A special shout out to our mane man Peter Gray of Moroccan Oil. The round-the-clock Manhattan fashion week traffic meant we were late for our backstage call time; but when you know Mr. Gray - you're in with the crew. A couple of 'she's with me's' and the next thing we knew we were at the model line up (for models, hair and makeup only.) For the first time we saw backstage at its most exciting; 5 seconds before showtime.
So yes, he's officially our hero.
And here he is in action working his magic backstage.
Perhaps one of the more difficult looks to try at home?
The Badgley Mischka Highlights...
A new nail texture.
A snap with the one and only Tom Pecheux.
Watching the girls get psyched up for the runway.
A show we won't be forgetting for a while... but for now; on to the next.
Day 2 - Vera Wang
A dark but pretty and feminine pout was seen at 3.1 Phillip Lim. And today we've spotted a continuing theme. "I'm calling the lips a rosebud pout," says make-up genius Lucia Pieroni backstage at Vera Wang. "I've used Clé de Peau Extra Rich Lipstick in Mister Lincoln and Tuscany (only available in the USA.) I want the girls to look like they're wearing no makeup besides their statement mouth." Thoughts? Love, love and love.
The key products for the Vera Wang look.
Psst! Spot the skincare. Remember a flawless finish always starts with a good, thorough skincare regime.
The totally gorgeous Andreea Diaconu showcasing the pre and post Vera Wang make-up look.
Spotted: New Product Alert
Today we discovered a new nail brand called Jin Soon backstage at Vera Wang. The good news? They have a gorgeous array of shades and models like Karlie Kloss chose the names of the polishes. (How cool?)
Bad news? They're not in the UK yet. Sigh! But Jin herself said they're working on it.
In our total excitement we visited the Jin Soon nail spa in the West Village and asked for the AW13 Vera Wang nail look... 3 hours after the show we’re one step closer to being runway ready.
P.S. the metallic NARS shade wasn't in the Vera Wang look today. That was simply my inner love for bling coming out again.
Day 2 - Narciso Rodriguez
If it's not broken, don't fix it - hair guru Paul Hanlon’s wise words backstage. "Narciso loved the hair so much last season. He gave me creative license to do the same thing again."
Three words to sum up the hair? Delicate, whimsical, polished.
Two words to sum up our thoughts? Hair envy.
The simple steps to runway style;
Blowdry Frederic Fekkai Mousse (£20) into hair, tong mid lengths to ends, spray L’Oreal Paris Elnett (£4.99) into the roots for texture, and smooth Bumble and Bumble’s Brillianteen Creme (£17) into the tips.
Et voila you're a Narciso Rodriguez girl.
Day 3 - Michael Kors
So it's our last day reporting from #NYFW. (Thanks blizzard Nemo!) First up, the truly amazing Michael Kors.
In past seasons the Kors girl has rocked everything from vivid hues on the eyes to all-over uber tans. This season? An athletic, chic woman with a 3D blunt cat eye. Totally different and still totally amazing.
Shiseido’s Dick Page explains his guidelines to becoming the Michael Kors girl.
1. Sketch in eye shape with Shisedio’s Shimmering Eye Cream in Caviar (£21).
2. Follow with the black eye shadow from Shiseido’s Holiday Palette (limited edition).
3. Then do base make-up and proceed with the rest of the look.
We asked what his best tip is to creating the perfect straight line. "Using a soft eye makeup brush; dot, sweep and sketch rather than trying to draw one precise line." Thanks Mr. Page, for telling it to us straight.
Boys, Boys, Boys
Ok, there's not too much to say except there were incredibly dashing male models wondering around backstage. And we're not complaining.
Multi-tasking Models
It just so happened every time we tried to snap a model they were on their phones today. Here's Karlie Kloss using a beats headset and Cara Delevingne chatting away on her Blackberry.
The busiest girls in the biz!
Day 3 - Nanette Lepore
The slicked back theme continues from Kors; but this time James Pecis for Bumble and Bumble tells us the Lepore lady has taken a trip to Mars.
"There are 2 hair looks depending on what they're wearing," says Pecis.
Click to see the sci-fi hair creations...
Manes from Mars
The two key products for out-of-this-world hair are:
Bumble and Bumble Holding Spray (£17)
Bumble and Bumble Thickening Serum (£21.50)
From Moodboard to Model
"She's strong but feminine, punk but sexy," says MAC make-up artist Max Delorme. "I'm playing with textures and clashing ideas. I've used MAC’s Ebony Eye Pencil (£13.50) and MAC’s Kohl Power Eye Pencil in Feline (£14) for a strong defined eye but contrasted it by sweeping soft, neutral eyeshadow shades across the lids. The same with the skin; I've added a touch of blush in Fleur Power by MAC (£17.50) but then sculpted the cheekbones with Bone Beige and Sculpt from MAC Pro.
Day 3 - Philosophy by Alberta Ferretti
"There's a Tibetan, Mongolian theme running through the collection so I've created an outdoorsy, sunkissed look for the show," says makeup star Lucia Pieroni. "I'm blending MAC’s Rubywoo (£14) and Lady Danger (£14) lipsticks into the cheeks for a burnt finish; I'm brushing up the brows and to finish, I'm tapping the same rosy cheek colour onto the lips."
Note to self... lipsticks can totally double up as blush.
"This is not supposed to be a neat, romantic braid ladies," warns hair stylist Orlando Pita. "Think Grace Kelly visits Mongolia." Cue confused faces. "Ok let me break it down. We are doing two fish tail braids and then looping and pinning them."
Backstage scoop: "I'll tell you a secret," adds Pita. "My whole team are using a product called Lets Jam Hold and Shine Gel (£5.49). It has no water in it as it's meant for afro hair; and it gives the perfect hold without leaving your locks stiff and hard."
Take a moment to appreciate Orlando posing with his go-to hair product Lets Jam.
A Beauty Girl’s Pit Stop
3 days have passed, 15 backstage areas have been visited, and countless cappuccinos have been sipped. After lusting over Paul Hanlon’s effortless, undone hair creations at Narciso Rodriguez and Vera Wang, I decided it was my turn to have pretty hair. So what did I do? I booked myself in for the ultimate Bumble and Bumble experience in the Meatpacking District.
From oversized scissor decorations to personalized take away cups; this salon is a must if you ever take a trip to the Big Apple.
And here's the final look. A huge shout out to my hairstylist Nico for the perfect, sleek blow dry.
What's next? Reed Krakoff - the last show of New York Fashion Week. But I feel like we've only just got started? I guess time flies when you're having beauty fun!
Day 3 - Reed Krakoff
The last show of NYFW brought hair envy in every sense of the word. Redken’s Guido Palau was blowdrying hair into total mane perfection. To ensure all over sleekness, he washed some of the models hair with a new Redken shampoo and conditioner called Diamond Oil (coming May 2013). Next? All the girls sat back and had gorgeous, straight blowdries.
Oh, the life of a girl on the runway.
Make-up and nails followed the same minimalist theme. Nails are being buffed and filed and make up "is clean and fresh" says make-up artist Diane Kendal. "I'm using concealer where needed, and I'm simply tapping MAC lipstick in Au Natural onto the cheeks.”
Are you wondering who the lady is in the picture with me? Allow me to introduce you to Honey; the coolest nail lady ever. But you probably guessed that with a name like Honey!
