How to look after afro hair in the summer, because our kinks and curls deserve extra care at this time of year
With summer in full swing, and scorchingly high temperatures, it can be easy to take a more relaxed approach when it comes to taking care of afro hair and the health of our kinks and our curls.
But switching from chic cropped wigs and perfectly coiled twist outs, to heat-proof knotless braids and styles, means it’s important to remember to also protect our fro’s and scalps from some of the season's less curl-friendly elements.
Here are all the elements that can affect afro hair in the summer – from UV damage to dips in the pool – and some top tips from celebrity hairstylist Zateesha Barbour and award-winning trichologist Ebuni Ajiduah, for making sure your afro thrives throughout this summer.
UV damage and over-exposure to the sun
Our busy schedules can leave less time for afro TLC. It is therefor important to be mindful of the effects that summer fun has on your natural hair even whilst donning protective styles.
Dryness is a common concern for many people with afro hair due in part to misinformation about hair porosity and hair needs, however as the sun begins to shine, dryness can become less manageable and lead to breakage. According to Ajiduah: “UV rays from the sun can cause damage to the hair, due to the fact that sun exposure both lightens colour but aldo affects the protein bonds on the hair”.
Although research into the benefits and reduction of breakage when using products with UV protection on afro hair is still developing, Ajiduah advises that during the summer months, afro-haired people – specifically when wearing styles like cornrows and braids, “to use a SPF spray for hair and scalp or wear hats/head coverings when in prolonged exposure.”
Lightening of afro hair and scalp exposure to the sun is not the only form of damage to look out for during the summer explains, celebrity hairstylist Zateesha Barbour: "Like with all hair types, time spent in the sun can lighten afro hair, however, this is especially true for chemically treated afro hair, whether that be coloured or straightened, any damage from the sun can also be exasperated by using heat tools."
Barbour explains that “summer is a great time to opt for low/no heat when drying your natural hair but if your curls/coils are inadequately moisturised, even without added heat; the sun can leave you with dryness. So be mindful to keep on top of your deep conditioning routine and colour protecting products that also provide UV protection, to avoid colour fade”.
Chlorine and seawater
Quick dips in salty waves and chlorine-treated pools may be welcome breaks from the humid heat, but navigating post-swim haircare can sometimes feel like an unwelcome chore.
Trichologist Ebuni Ajiduah explains that along with the “drying effect on the hair and skin, chlorine exposure in the summer can also cause things like scalp irritation and in coloured hair, the copper in the water can affect the quality of the colour and alter it.” For best protection for your scalp and summer fro, Ajiduah suggests wearing your hair in “simple style like twists or plaits in order to prevent shrinkage, that easily allows for the hair to be washed or rinsed post swim to remove sea water and chemicals. The Soul Cap is a brilliant option for maximum protection – just be sure to use a small amount of leave-in conditioner or oil to lightly coat the hair before putting it on”
For the days when a swimming cap doesn’t make the summer essentials list, hairstylist Zateesha Barbour recommends “pre-pooing” with shea butter or oil products in order to create a protective barrier. She goes on to explain, that “applying heat to the hair without washing out chlorine can actually result in excessive dryness and breakage.” A cool dip in the seas, however, she continues, “isn't always a bad thing”; depending on your natural moisture levels in “healthy natural hair, sea water can add more texture and pattern in your hair – however people with sensitivities, should avoid full submersions in the sea.”
Increased humidity and sweat
Hot and humid days may be a welcome change from grey skies and rain, however for kinky, coily, and curled-haired people it can also become an endless battle with shrinkage and unwanted frizz. However, according to Barbour, sweat and moisture-filled air does not have to become your summer foe if you’re mindful of the overall health and hydration of your afro hair. “I always say hair only absorbs atmospheric moisture when it does not have enough of its own” explains the celebrity stylist, “so making sure your hair has enough moisture is vital for a frizz-free foundation before natural styling”. If the rise in temperature has made you long for silky straight strands, then Barbour suggests booking in “keratin smoothing treatments. They are perfect for anyone who wants to wear their hair straight/smooth without the worry of frizz.”
The good news is that humidity doesn’t cause any long-term damage, however summer sweat has a little less of a straightforward effect on afro hair. “In order to manage flaking, imbalances in moisture, and bacterial issues, I normally suggest scalp balancing shampoos alongside regular treatments every fortnight to replenish moisture which can be done at home or in the salon,” explains Barbour. For braids/weaves, the hairstylist recommends using “no shampoo foams that can be used to cleanse the scalp and neutralise odours.”
For the ultimate post-sweat hair trick trichologist, Ebuni Ajiduah advises that you try to “remove as much moisture from the scalp using a microfibre towel or cloth after a sweaty period and start washing your hair more frequently than every two weeks, in order to counteract possible scalp issues”
Despite the breadth of knowledge at our fingertips and through numerous auntie-fuelled hair phone trees, the best point of call to get specific advice for your afro hair concerns during the summer is from a professional trichologist or hairstylist who can help you to stave off dryness and chlorinated damage to your kinks.
Whether your hair coils tightly to your scalp or locs linger over your shoulder blade, summer doesn’t have to equal dry and brittle hair. We’ve rounded up 9 summer-proof products that can help to soothe your scalp and nourish your curly hair follicles, throughout humid evenings and midday sunny spells...
Shea Moisture Manuka Honey & Yogurt Hydrate Leave-In Conditioner, £10.99, LookFantastic
If multi-use product are more your summer haircare style, then Shea Moisture’s Manuka Honey & Yogurt Hydrate Leave In Conditioner is a one stop shop for hydration and detangling ease. Going for a dip? This leave in conditioner now becomes a nourishing barrier for waist length knotless braids and those voluminous curls.
Living Proof Curl Defining Gel, £27, LookFantastic
Finding the balance between great hold and lack of flake-a-blity in a gel can be a long process, however Living Proof’s lightweight Curl Defining gel - formulated for all curl patterns – has just enough balance for the bounce and bond your coils tyles need this summer. It’s silicone-free, paraben-free formulation is also humidity resistant making it ideal for long-lasting hold - summer twist outs and edge slicked braids wearers rejoice!
Soul Cap Large Swimming Cap, £14.99, Amazon
Although for many of the volume blessed, the now infamous Soul Cap came on to our radar due to a controversial and prejudiced ruling by Fina to ban the use of the afro-proof swimming cap – it still makes our list for summer swim essentials. The extensive size range means that avid swimmers – and cannonball enthusiasts- with afro hair can now enjoy the perks of the pool without the worry of fro frizz.
Aveda Foam Reset Rinseless Hydrating Cleanser, £24.95, John Lewis
Aveda has long been at the forefront of universal haircare, but their Foam Reset Rinseless Hydrating Cleanser is the haircare innovation cornrow lovers have been waiting for. The foamy yet lightweight formula is a soothing, scalp cleansing wonder – allowing for unfussy solution to mid style itchiness.
Charlotte Mensah Manketti Oil, £48, Space NK
Mask and restorative treatment systems not quite for you ? Then treat yourself to a overnight oil treatment courtesy of Charlotte Mensah’s beloved Manketti Oil, in order to double down on nourishment post braids or when humidity reads your fro for fizz.
Phillip Kingsley Swimcap, £19.50, LookFantastic
If a swimming cap doesn’t quite fit into your summer wardrobe plans, then Phillip Kingsley’s swimcap in a bottle is a must try. Applied to braids, or raked through natural coils, the formula - originally developed per request by the first US Olympic Synchronized Swimming Team – creates a barrier between your hair and water. UV protection and Castor Oil to help lock in moisture are an added bonus in this wunderkind product.
The Body Shop Detangling Comb, £5, The Body Shop
Having a sturdy detangling comb in your hair care arsenal that effortlessly undoes knots in both wet and dry hair is the ultimate holiday helping hand. Need help distributing some pre-poo before a summer swim? Then this handy birch wood comb from The Body Shop is the tool you’ve been waiting for.
Bouclème Scalp Exfoliating Shampoo, £26, Cult Beauty
Post swim washes should involve two key things, a great wash day playlist and a deep – to the- finger level shampoo in order to rid your hair of salt, sand and all of summers extras that can cause dryness in afro hair. Bouclème’s SCALP EXFOLIATING SHAMPOO is perfect for getting to the root, leaving room for hydration vibes only.
Oribe Imperméable Anti-Humidity Spray, £41, Amazon
Keeping coily and curl styles in tact during humid points summer sometimes feels like equal parts wishing and equal parts prayer. Although added volume thanks to moisture in the air is not something afro haired people should feel the need to hide or tame, on days where sleekness is of paramount Oribe’s Imperméable Anti-Humidity Spray, will be your best friend.
Coco and Eve Super Hydrating Shampoo and Conditioner, £22.90 each, Cult Beauty
Back in May, haircare favourite Coco & Eve answered all curly girls prayers, by releasing sulphate-free shampoo and conditioner range that promised to increase moisture by 51%, repair and reduce damage by 65% - huge claims, that were officially co-signed by the Glamour team, making it a perfect addition to your summer hydration tool kit.
Coola Classic SPF30 Organic Scalp & Hair Mist, £21, Skincity
Sunscreen, for your face – check, sunscreen for your body – check and sun mist for your hair – double check. Coola’s handy SPF 30 SCALP & HAIR MIST is perfect for spritzing over intricate partings on summer styles that leave your scalp most exposed. The water-resistant SPF’s misting means less product build up allowing for much needed moisture boosts via oils and sprays in-between washes.
Aquis Copper Sure Rapid Dry Hair Wrap, £30, Space NK
The recipe for low frizz curls is simple, hydration first and then lock it in second. The faster you dry you hair from root to tip wheather that be due to sweat, swimming or post wash can help to combat damage that occurs whilst hair remains wet. Aquis Copper Sure Rapid Dry Hair Wrap is a fast and utterly chic alternative to regular towel – or let be honest cotton t-shirts. As it’s designed with AQUITEX™ fabric combined with antimicrobial copper – which keeps the towel fresher for longer, it’s a welcomed more sustainable option for more frequent summer washdays.
BREAD Beauty Supply – Kit 1 Wash, £54, Cult Beauty
BREAD’s handy kit system makes for a perfect pop in your suitcase addition to your summer haircare roster. The kit includes everything you need from a multi-purpose, gloss-boosting hair-oil to an intensively conditioning hair-mask, the set is holiday wash day gamechanger sure to force any airport mini into second place.
Afrocenchix Sheen Natural Moisturing Spray, £10.65, Superdrug
In between washes and nourishing treatment, dryness can still occur due to the increased heat so it’s important to find ways to inject moisture back into your hair. Creams and oils can sometimes feel too thick and heavy during the summer months to Afrocenchix’s Sheen- Natural Moisturing Spray, is a welcomed alternative.
Olaplex's Bond Treatment System, £78, Olaplex
Trying out different braids and cornrow styles may be a summer rite of passage for many people with afros, however breakage and damage from the tension of some styles however is not. Olaplex's is best known for it’s transformative bond systems that are sure to bring back even the most limp of curls back to full bounce.
No Knot Co's Flexi Detangling Brush
No Knot Co's detangling brushes are known for their "Flex" technology, thanks to the flexible back panels of their brushes that move with your waves, curls, and coils. Afro hair flexibility means new hairstyles and options are always on the cards, so having an equally versatile brush to help detangle your coils during wash days is a no brainer.
Holy Curls Curl Mask, £28, Holy Curls
Increased frequency of washes and summer pool fun means that extra hydration for your is an essential summer maintenance addition. Holy Curls – a natural curly brand based in London- has a deep conditioning Curl Mask that is formulated to penetrate right down into the hair shaft in order to provide ultimate moisture, hydration and restoration.
Typology Purifying Scalp Treatment Zinc PCA 5% + Nettle Extract, £26.90, Typology
Scalp care is self care this summer so an at home purifying scalp treatment from Typology is exactly what you need to add to your summer haircare wishlist. Along with purifying and balancing zinc – which is known it’s antibacterial properties- the small but mighty tincture also continues nettle extract that aides in regulating sebum production, so your scalp can remain balanced all summer long.
