3D Your Make-Up
Lips, lashes and liner like you've never seen them before
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<p class="BodyBembo">By Alessandra Steinherr
Photographs by David Oldham
<p class="BodyBembo">Model: Hanna Verhees at Viva
Hair: Ben Jones at Jed Root
Nails: Adam Slee at Streeters
Make-up: Kelly Cornwell at Premier
David OldhamSometimes make-up whispers and sometimes it shouts – right now it’s definitely in a yelling mood. It might be bold and expressive, but that doesn’t mean it’s loud all over – this is about focusing on one feature and really enhancing it. Think the prettily pouty mouth at Prada, the multiple layered lashes at Gucci and the super-bold brows at Marc Jacobs. Forget about playing it safe.
David OldhamMEGA lips
It was hard not to notice the prominent pouts parading down the runway this season; we loved the matte effect at Dries Van Noten and Rochas, and the supersize finish at Prada. Whichever way you choose to go, what they all have in common is an otherwise bare face, except for perfectly polished skin. For the satiny finish here (previous page and left), make-up artist Kelly Cornwell lined lips just under the lower lip and defined the Cupid’s bow. “It looks more natural than drawing around the whole lip.”
Then she painted on Rouge Dior in Red Premiere £25 Dior with Brush in 231 £16 maccosmetics.co.uk. “It has a squared, not pointed, tip which allows for a softer, more diffused colour.” To make the lips ‘pout’ more, she highlighted the Cupid’s bow with The Multiple in Copacabana £29 narscosmetics.co.uk, for a ready-to-wear version of the Prada look.
David OldhamPOW! liner
Yes, black is chic and will always be a staple, but a single stroke of graphic eyeliner looks awesome in a colour like emerald green, turquoise blue or vibrant purple. And you don’t have to place it at the lash roots like traditional liner, either – make-up artists got creative at Michael Kors with a single stroke of ‘floating liner’ in the crease, or lining just the underneath at Moschino Cheap And Chic and Stella McCartney. Here Kelly created a more wearable version of the former by bringing the liner lower on the lid. She started with a thin stroke of liquid liner to define upper lashes (Limitless Liquid Liner Pen in Jet Black £14 Smashbox), then she left a little gap and drew a slash of Dessin du Regard Eye Pencil in 3 £19 Yves Saint Laurent from the inside of the lid out. “Rather than ending the line in a ’60s flick, square it off with a cotton bud,” she says. She set the pencil with powder to stop it from moving around the eyelid and added a teeny bit of highlighter in the gap between the line and the lashes for a 3D effect. She finished by curling the lashes and adding lots of mascara.
David OldhamSUPER lashes
False lashes have for a while now been a Saturday night make-up staple and are no longer just reserved for showgirls. To pull off spring’s wide-eyed lashes, à la Gucci, it’s about mastering the art of layering different-shaped falsies. “It’s easiest to glue the separate lash strips together before putting them onto your eyes,” advises Kelly.
STEP 1 Start with the fullest lashes underneath – try Naturalites Natural Texture £5.06 Eylure. “And always wiggle lashes when you take them out of their packaging,” says Kelly. “They tend to be too straight and as eyes are curved, you need to bend the false lashes a bit.”
STEP 2 In the middle, layer a more spread-out lash to give definition. We like Big Spender £11.50 benefitcosmetics.co.uk. “Depending on your eye shape, you might need to cut lashes to fit perfectly. Always trim them on the inside, as that is the shortest length.”
STEP 3 On top, add a feathered style, like Prima Donna £11.50 benefitcosmetics.co.uk.
“Line inside the eyes with a black liner, glue on the lashes and add lots of black mascara to bottom lashes,” says Kelly.
David OldhamJUMBO brows
Here’s the thing about the ongoing bold brow trend… it’s great if you actually have sizeable brows, but it’s pretty tough to make small ones look big in a natural way. Enter the Edie Sedgwick-inspired make-up at Marc Jacobs, with its lust-worthy voluminous brows. Even though the look was edgy (well, it is a runway show), we love the approach of using powder to beef up brows rather than pencil – it looks less drawn-on and lighter, yet gives them more dimension. “The trick to natural-looking, lush eyebrows is to follow the top of your natural shape, but not underneath,” says Kelly. “And feather your strokes, rather than trying to draw in the shape.” Try Brow Duo £20 maccosmetics.co.uk. Team with a super-blushed cheek – tap on a cream or gel formula in a plum shade for an athletic flush.
