If you’ve watched The Gilded Age, Downton Abbey, or just about any period drama based in the 19th or early-20th century, you’ve seen the white tie dress code. Known as the most formal type of Western dress, the stiff-collared, starched-white suits seem like the epitome of traditional, upper-class stuffiness — like the character we hated in 1997’s Titanic.
Despite these modern connotations, the white tie dress code was initially a simpler, less ostentatious version of evening attire. Until around the end of the 1700s, formal dress for upper-class men was far more decorative, with frilly shirts and adorned coats. Then, around the turn of the century, the Regency-era aristocracy began to adopt a more sombre style which included dark colours and simpler cuts.
This was the result of a few factors, including cultural and political developments such as The Enlightenment and the French Revolution, which brought with them changing mindsets towards class, masculinity and utilitarianism. This evolution in men’s clothing was coined “The Great Male Renunciation” by psychologist John Flügel in 1930. A particularly important figure in England’s stylistic shift was Beau Brummell, father of dandyism and original fashion influencer.
When we think of white tie, we think of: a black tailcoat and trousers, a white or black waistcoat, and a white shirt and bowtie. This look as we know it didn’t fully emerge until the Victorian era, when the black-and-white colour palette became standard and the bowtie replaced the cravat. By the 1920s and 30s, though, the tailcoat was increasingly being replaced by the shorter dinner jacket and the black tie began to replace the white tie, save for the most formal occasions. (Which is why we have a black tie dress code, which is below white tie in formality.) By the time of the flower power revolution of the 1960s, white tie had almost completely fallen out of fashion.
But that’s enough of the history: it’s 2025, so chances are you won’t be needing to dress in white tie. However, just in case you’ve been invited to the Met Gala or a particularly fancy wedding, we’ve got you covered.
How to wear white tie for men
You will need a black evening tailcoat jacket with peaked silk lapels and matching black trousers with silk gallon trim. Peaked lapels are more formal than the typical notched lapel, while the gallon trim consists of two silk strips that runs up the side of the leg to cover the seams. The trousers should also be high-waisted.
As the name suggests, you’ll need a white bowtie. It’s preferable to hand-tie it, but if you must buy a ready-tied one, that’s fine. The white shirt should have a winged collar (sometimes detachable) and single folded cuffs. Definitely avoid the standard turn-down collar that you would wear with a business suit – it will simply look wrong with a bowtie!
A single-breasted waistcoat will show off the shirt and buttons. (They often come backless, like a fancy bib.) When looking for the right tie, shirt and waistcoat, aim for similar textures and fabrics. Pique cotton is the typical choice. Cufflinks are the finishing touch: go for elegant, clean styles, like pearl or silver. You can also add a white silk pocket square.
For the shoes, black patent lace shoes are acceptable, though black opera pumps are more traditional. The black socks should be long to avoid showing any skin.
If you want to go all the way, you can also wear a black top hat and white silk scarf, though you must take them off on arriving indoors. Another detail of white tie dress that will make you look like a true pro is going without a wristwatch. If you must wear one, make sure it’s not visible: or go for a pocket watch if you’re feeling fancy.
How to wear white tie for women
The white tie dress code for women is much less defined, which could make it easier or harder, depending on how you look at it. A floor-length gown is a must, of course. Rich fabrics like silk and luxe details like embroidery are also a good bet. If the event doesn’t have a colour scheme, opt for season-appropriate hues. (Brighter or paler colours in the summer, deeper tones in the winter.)
For jewellery, luxurious diamonds or pearls are the obvious choice. Long gloves will make you look like you know what you’re doing. They’re not essential, but if you do want that extra touch, opt for silk or satin.
The bag should be a small clutch purse, because you shouldn’t have too much to carry, anyway! (Or, at least, it should seem that way.) Shoes are quite flexible, but don’t go too daring: the point of the white tie dress code is to look sophisticated but not extremely fashion forward.
This translates to the hair and make-up too: words like classic and elegant are key. You can’t really go wrong with an updo, but you can wear your hair down if it’s neat. Perhaps go for half-up, half-down, secured with jewelled pins or even a tiara. Make-up is open to interpretation but should not be too intense. For instance, big, bold eyeliner or atypical lipstick colours would look out of place.
What’s the difference between white tie and black tie?
Earlier, we mentioned that black tie developed as a more casual but still smart alternative to white tie. It's a much more common dress code nowadays, so it's important to know the rules for black tie too. The most obvious difference is the colour of the tie: as implied, black tie calls for a black bowtie. Along with that, black tie also forgoes the tailcoat and replaces it with the shorter black dinner jacket or tuxedo. You can also opt for a white jacket instead of black. If you want to wear a cummerbund, black tie is the time to wear it. If you want to get it really right, your suit should also include satin details, such as a satin shawl lapel.
For women, black tie means that dresses don't necessarily have to be floor-length. There is more flexibility with what is appropriate: for instance, white tie for women tends to call for more conservative, not-too-revealing silhouettes. Black tie, on the other hand, leaves a little more room to experiment. (As long as you still look smart, of course!) Jewellery should be not quite as opulent as for white tie.
In conclusion: while there is a lot to remember and it might seem daunting, at the end of the day, for both men and women, the white tie look is about being polished. The small details matter, but whether you specifically opt for mother of pearl cufflinks or not, it's not the end of the world. Don't stress if you can't find the perfect cotton pique shirt: as long as your fabrics are harmonious and work together, you'll be fine.
