Wait… Tory Burch, is that you?
Scrolling past the barrage of runway NYFW images yesterday, I was beginning to settle into the lull of beautiful, butter-yellow jackets and lace skirt photos from New York's mainstays: a flirty dress from Michael Kors, a cream suit from Ralph Lauren. But suddenly, a burgundy, sharp-shouldered pinstripe jacket appeared and I had to do a double-take. Was that… Phoebe Philo's Céline? My eyes darted to the brand: Tory Burch.
For a few seasons now, the American designer has been slowly but surely shifting her aesthetic. Once best known for her commercial hits like the preppy ballet flats and garden-party prints, the Tory Burch in its heyday was what every girl who shopped high street brands aspired to own as their first accessible designer piece. But if the brand once sat comfortably amongst similar American-boho brands like Coach or Ulla Johnson, what we witnessed yesterday feels much closer to the likes of Victoria Beckham on the sartorial spectrum.
Even Katie Holmes can't get enough.
Its spring-summer 2025 show, which took place in NYC's former Domino Sugar Factory, truly cemented her place amongst her minimalist contemporaries. Gone were the logos and the giant gold medallions on the sides of flap bags or the frilly blouses. Instead, hand-twisted sequinned tops and featherweight suede looks took centre stage. With crisp, sharp-shouldered suiting contrasted against sporty motifs, the collection is for the practical-but-sophisticated woman who wants to look as polished in the boardroom as she does on a school-run. They were unfussy, timeless and modern. In other words, what Phoebe Philo used to offer during her tenure at Céline.
The FROW, which included Elizabeth Olsen, Michelle Williams and Ella Emhoff – and a surprise runway appearance by Alexa Chung – also speaks to the new Tory Burch girl, who is a little more grown up, and definitely more self-assured.
Truth be told, I have not owned much Tory Burch I since my college years spent in the US (and I've never been one to covet the medallion ballet flats) – but the brand's new sheer patent pump with a horned heel and peekaboo toe is making me reconsider.
Since Phoebe Philo stepped down from Céline (and re-emerged with her own label marked at a highly inaccessible price point), few brands have been able to fill the gap in the market — and in our hearts — for those sculptural, modern heirlooms that can be restyled over and over. Perhaps, just perhaps, Tory Burch is ready to step in. We'll just have to wait and see what she does next.
London's fashion talents weigh in.
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