Imagine this: you're going about your day, posting a 'pick a dress' reel on Instagram to engage your audience and connect more with your followers. Comments start rolling in, with people sharing their favourite dress and why they chose it. Then, you see a comment that reads, "Really disappointing seeing you promote fast fashion."
I don’t have to imagine this scenario, because it happened to me. Throughout my career as a model, I've received numerous unsolicited comments – mainly about my body – expressing "concerns" about my health and weight. These comments are based solely on people's perceptions of my body, without any access to my medical history or the input of my GP.
I'm sadly accustomed to these remarks. However, the comment about promoting fast fashion and the disappointment it conveyed hit me differently, triggering a wave of emotions.
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Initially, I felt shame, as I considered my choice to share fast fashion to my audience. Then came panic. I've been working on regulating my nervous system, but the anxiety surged – exacerbated by my concerns about how I'm perceived — an issue I'm addressing in therapy. The emotions were overwhelming.
At that point, I had to take a step back and refocus my energy on whether to respond or not, and what I wanted to say.
I, and those who strive to see the nuanced picture, understand that sustainable and slow fashion still largely caters to slim, wealthy white women. The notion, therefore, of attacking a plus-sized Black content creator is incredibly counterproductive.
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I decided that it would be best to respond directly to the comment with another video. I hoped this would encourage them to seek meaningful change by addressing the real issues at hand — patriarchy and capitalism— or by writing to brands and campaigning, rather than attacking Black, plus-sized content creators.
I said: “I would love a world where I could wear sustainable pieces – true sustainable pieces – every day. But for me as a plus-sized woman, it's not always affordable or accessible. For someone to comment and assume that I can afford sustainable pieces or a whole sustainable wardrobe when there aren't many sizes for plus sizes is not mindful at all.”
A comment by a follower of mine, @Theludensatlas, perfectly captured and broke down the dilemma we face with clothing.
- Clothing that fits and is fashionable
- Clothing that is sustainable
- Clothing that is affordable
Unless you have substantial wealth, achieving one or maybe two of these goals is possible, but rarely all three. For those who are plus-sized, this challenge is even more daunting.
Status: It’s complicated.
I have always loved shopping vintage or supporting slow fashion. As an ambassador for Crisis charity, whose mission is to end homelessness, I once worked for The Emperor's Old Clothes in Brighton, a small sustainable brand dedicated to slow production and remarkable size inclusivity. However, finding fashionable, plus-sized pieces in charity shops is almost impossible. It feels like both criteria cannot co-exist.
Very fortunately, my work allows me the privilege of being gifted beautiful, sustainable, and slow fashion pieces from brands I adore from time to time, such as Beyond Nine; an incredible brand that caters to the changing bodies of women.
Reformation is also a great slow brand that offers plus sizes, but I must reiterate that I am fortunate to have been gifted the pieces I own – otherwise, the high price tag would have been prohibitive. Without these gifts, I wouldn't have been able to afford them.
But disappointingly, many sustainable fashion brands only cater to sizes up to 18. I would love to wear other sustainable brands like Mother of Pearl, ELV Denim, or REN London – but these brands only carry sizes up to 16 and 18, with a maximum waist size of 34.
When I shop for clothes I always aim for a positive experience, especially when buying sustainably, and I find it truly upsetting that plus sizes are so often excluded and overlooked in the slow and sustainable fashion conversation.
To make matters worse, plus-sized content creators frequently face criticism and disappointment from others, who are usually straight-sized and have no trouble finding their size in charity shops or shopping sustainably. This disappointed energy is rarely directed at slim, white influencers and content creators who regularly post fast fashion hauls.
This leads me to ask: what steps can be taken to alter this narrative? It's a narrative that unfairly targets Black plus-sized content creators for simply sharing their discoveries.
It suggests that we possess the ability to make sustainable and slow brands notice and include us. What I believe needs to occur is for those who have the power to influence brand inclusion to act.
Act on behalf of the Black, plus-size content creators, whom you are so quick to share your disapproval of. That's the only way real and meaningful change can be achieved.
