Depending on the amount and length of your hair, washing it can feel like a chore. But if you lean on dry shampoo a lot, you may miss the signs that you don't wash your hair enough – all of which risks scalp problems that could, in extreme cases, even lead to hair loss.
How often should I wash my hair?
Ah, the million dollar question. It's actually difficult to generalise about how often you should wash your hair as this routine depends on a few factors. If your scalp is dry or your hair is very thick and you don't use many styling products, you may be able to get away with washing your hair just once a week.
But this isn't a universal rule.
If you think of your scalp as an extension of the skin on your face, it's worth thinking about your hair wash in the same way as cleansing. Do you style your hair a lot? Do you live in a city? Do you use a lot of dry shampoo? Do you already have dandruff? Is your scalp oily? These are all factors that might mean you should be washing your hair more often – i.e. every two to three days – to give your scalp and roots a thorough cleanse.
Five signs that you aren't washing your hair enough
From obvious signs such as greasy hair to scalp problems and even hair loss, here are five signs that mean you might need to wash your hair more regularly:
The most obvious signs that you're washing your hair too infrequently are greasy roots and a lack of volume. If you don't regularly wash the excess sebum from your scalp, your hair will become stringy and heavy. For some people, this happens one or two days after washing; for others, it takes longer.
If you wear a hat for extended periods, it can also “trap heat and moisture close to your scalp, potentially leading to sweat and a buildup of moisture,” says consultant trichologist Samantha Stewart, who has partnered with LloydsPharmacy Online Doctor. “This can create a humid environment that may contribute to scalp issues like dandruff for individuals who are susceptible to scalp conditions.” It can also mean your hair gets greasier faster.
Our scalp continuously produces sebum, an oily secretion that protects and moisturises the skin and hair. If you don't regularly wash your hair, sebum can accumulate on the scalp.
At the same time, skin cells die and are constantly renewed. If you're not washing your hair enough, these dead cells remain on the scalp for longer, leading to a build-up of dirt, oil and dead skin particles. This accumulation creates an ideal environment for the proliferation of microorganisms, such as the yeast fungus Malassezia, which lives naturally on the scalp and is the cause of dandruff.
So while dandruff is not necessarily a sign of infrequent hair washing, increased sebum production and a lack of cleansing can cause the fungus to multiply. This is because Malassezia feeds on the fats in the sebum and, when it multiplies, by-products are released that can irritate the scalp. This irritation then leads to increased cell production, which becomes visible as dandruff.
An itchy scalp is not only a sign of a dry scalp due to too frequent washing, but also an indication that you aren't washing your hair enough. Conditioning and styling products, dirt, sweat and dead skin cells can accumulate on the scalp.
This build-up provides an ideal breeding ground for microorganisms such as the aforementioned Malassezia yeast. The lack of cleansing of the scalp also promotes skin conditions such as seborrhoeic dermatitis, which are accompanied by itching.
And if you rely heavily on dry shampoo, take note: according to trichologist Anabel Kingsley, a day or two of using a dry shampoo is fine, but any longer without actually washing your hair with shampoo can irritate the scalp and cause itching.
Is your hair dull? This could be due to build-up from styling and care products, which makes the hair surface less smooth and therefore less able to reflect light.
This is especially true if you use a lot of dry shampoo in between washes because the powder particles it contains can make the hair look dull. A clarifying shampoo ensures a clean restart, especially in combination with a shine-enhancing conditioner.
Increased hair loss could also indicate that you aren't washing your hair enough. The main reason for this, according to Harklinikken founder Lars Skjoth, is that a buildup of excess oil, dead skin cells and product residue clogs hair follicles and creates an unhealthy environment for hair growth on the scalp.
It can also lead to inflammation, such as folliculitis, which may result in thinning hair.
From someone who's tested every product under the sun.
If you experience one or more of these signs that you don't wash your hair enough, you might like to try upping the frequency and weening yourself off dry shampoo to see if that makes a difference. Or, if doubt, consult a professional dermatologist or trichologist.
A version of this article originally appeared on Vogue Germany.
