Most of us know that sunscreen in summer is non-negotiable if you want to lower your risk of sunburn and skin cancer. But should you wear SPF in winter, too, when the skies are grey, and there's little sun to speak of?
It's a divisive subject. On the one hand, we're told to wear SPF year-round, even in winter, to prevent wrinkles. On the other hand, we're warned not to apply sunscreen on cloudy winter days as it puts us at risk of vitamin D deficiency. So who's right?
We asked dermatologists and nutritionists to break down the common myths around facial sunscreen in winter and how to incorporate it into your routine at this time of year for the best results.
The best sunscreens for winter
Should you still wear SPF in winter?
It's true that UVB rays – ones that cause sunburn and increase the risk of skin cancer – aren't as strong between October and March. “The lowest risk of sunburn is in the winter months because less energy from UVB reaches us from the sun,” says Dr Mary Sommerlad, a consultant dermatologist who is also part of Elizabeth Arden's ‘Derm Collective’. “The sun is lower on the horizon, and thicker cloud coverage can also reduce how much UVB energy hits the skin.”
UVA rays, on the other hand, are present all year-round. “UVA rays remain constant year-round,” says dermatologist Dr Ophelia Veraitch. “UVA penetrates deeply into the skin, driving premature ageing, pigmentation and collagen breakdown—and crucially, UVA penetrates through clouds and windows."
For this reason, both Dr Sommerlad and Dr Veraitch recommend wearing sunscreen even when it’s cold and gloomy outside. “You will also need to use a broad-spectrum sunscreen in winter if you're using retinol or exfoliators or you have laser treatments,” adds Dr Sommerlad.
Does wearing SPF in winter block vitamin D production?
It's true that 90% of absorbable vitamin D comes from the sun's UVB rays. But here's the thing: in the UK, we don't often get the level of sunlight the body needs to make its own vitamin D, even during the height of summer, says Rhian Stephenson, nutritionist and founder of Artah.
A study in the British Journal of Dermatology, supported by the British Association of Dermatologists, plus a review of 75 papers on sunscreen and vitamin D, also found that sunscreen does not prevent vitamin D production.
One explanation is that no matter how much sunscreen you use, or how high the SPF number, some UV rays will still reach your skin. To break it down, an SPF 15 guards against 93% of UVB rays, SPF 30 protects against 97% and SPF 50 blocks out about 98%. Besides, people who don’t wear SPF year-round are often deficient in vitamin D, too.
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The consensus among many experts is that supplementing vitamin D is just as good as sun exposure. "The recommended daily intake of vitamin D as per the National Institutes of Health (NIH) is between 400-800 IU (international units) daily, or 10-20 micrograms daily," says Claire Shortt, nutritionist and lead scientist at FoodMarble. Good options include Artah Essential D3/K2 and Wild Nutrition Food-Grown Vitamin D, or BetterYou D1000 Vitamin D Daily Oral Spray if you prefer a spray over a tablet.
You can further boost your levels by including egg yolks, oily fish such as salmon and mackerel, as well as dairy that is fortified with vitamin D, in your diet.
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Is SPF30 better than SPF50 in winter?
The answer to this depends on several factors, including your skin type and concerns, if you've had skin cancer, are on medication or travelling abroad.
SPF is a measure of protection from UVB rays. "For UK winters, SPF30 is sufficient for most people as long as the filters are good,” says Dr Veraitch.
According to Dr Sommerlad, on a normal wintery day, the focus should be on choosing a facial sunscreen with a high UVA rating (typically marked by the letters “UVA” within a circle or a PA++++ rating) to protect against hyperpigmentation (clover-shaped brown splotches on the skin) and damage to your skin's DNA, elastin and collagen (the springs and stuffing of your skin).
A skincare staple you might have not known you needed.
Asked whether a moisturiser with added SPF would suffice, Dr Veraitch told Glamour: “Most standalone SPFs are formulated much like moisturisers, but they offer more reliable protection than moisturisers with added SPF."
If you're going skiing, however, you will need up your sunscreen game and regularly reapply an SPF50+ as snow reflects up to 80% of the sun's light. “These rays are more likely to be directed at exposed skin,” says dermatologist Dr Alexis Granite. “UV exposure is even stronger at higher altitudes because the atmosphere is thinner, providing less protection.”
On the slopes, Dr Granite recommends being as diligent when slathering on a high factor sunscreen as when you're on the beach in the height of summer. “Apply sunscreen early in the morning but, when out skiing all day, it's important to reapply sunscreen every 2-3 hours,” she says.
Likewise, “if you have a history of skin cancers, or are taking medications that make you prone to burning, stick with an SPF50 in the winter months regardless of the fact that UVB is less intense,” adds Dr Sommerlad.
How to apply sunscreen in winter?
Step 1: Cleanse as normal.
Step 2: Apply a serum of your choice, whether that's an antioxidant-rich formula or a more targeted approach using tranexamic acid for pigmentation and niacinamide or azelaic acid if you're prone to congestion.
Step 3: Apply an SPF30 or SPF50 sunscreen.
Step 4: Apply moisturiser. “Some sunscreens function like moisturisers so you may not need an extra layer of hydration,” says Dr Veraitch. But if you do, “and because skin can feel drier in winter, using a moisturiser over your SPF can be helpful.”
The key difference between a winter sunscreen routine and a summer one is that you don't need to reapply your SPF30 or SPF50 as often. “If you're mostly indoors, a morning application is enough,” says Dr Veraitch. “Reapply only if you're outdoors for prolonged periods or sitting next to large windows all day.”
Best SPF for winter
Yo-yoing between bracing temperatures outside and blasts of hot air indoors can leave skin parched and more prone to redness. “Winter SPFs with added skincare benefits can be helpful,” says Dr Veraitch, who recommends scanning the ingredients label for hydrating hyaluronic acid and niacinamide, which calms inflammation and strengthens the barrier. Both can be found in Tatcha The Silk Sunscreen SPF50 and Beauty of Joseon Rice + Probiotics SPF50.
For that suncare-meets-skincare buttery consistency, look no further than Augustinus Bader The Sunscreen SPF50, which additionally contains a moisturising algae extract. Squalane is another big hitter when it comes to hydration. Typically sourced from olives, it mimics the skin's natural oils – you'll find it in both Medik8 Advanced Day Ultimate Protect and The Inkey List Polyglutamic Acid Dewy Sunscreen SPF30.
Meanwhile, Elizabeth Arden's Prevage City Smart SPF50 is packed full of antioxidants to protect and support the skin's natural repair process while La Roche-Posay Anthelios UVMune 400 Hydrating Cream SPF50+ leans on probiotic water and glycerin.
Personally, I'm a fan of stick versions such as Shiseido's Expert Sun Protector Clear Stick SPF50+ and Elf Skin Suntouchable Invisi-Stick SPF50 as the waxy formula offers additional protection against windburn.
For more from Fiona Embleton, GLAMOUR's Associate Beauty Director, follow her on @fiembleton.
