Palm Springs has its own kind of calm. Not silence, exactly, but space. The heat is dry rather than oppressive, and even in spring, the air feels clean. It does not take long to see that the desert works to its own rhythm.
The mythology of Palm Springs is well established. Hollywood turned it into a winter refuge, mid-century architects gave it its look, and Slim Aarons fixed it in the imagination: white houses, long pools and sunlight falling across still water. His famous photograph ‘Poolside Gossip’, taken at Richard Neutra’s Kaufmann House in 1970, still captures the mood perfectly — people who appear to have nowhere urgent to be.
What stayed with me was something simpler. The desert clears the air and widens the horizon; the sky feels larger here, and the small, persistent worries we all carry begin to loosen their hold.
I arrived late, after the long drive from Los Angeles, much of it along an unlit highway cutting through open desert. The last stretch felt almost entirely without reference — just road and darkness — until, finally, the hotel came into view. Outside, the terrace was lit, the night still and cool. Someone handed me a cold glass of wine and, standing there looking out over the dark sweep of the Coachella Valley, the journey settled into place.
The hotel sits high above the valley, overlooking Palm Springs and the San Jacinto range. By day the view stretches across pale desert and distant ridges; by night the perspective shifts completely. The pool terrace looks directly out across that landscape and it is the sort of view that makes conversation stop for a moment.
Days fall into an easy rhythm. Lunch by the pool might be shrimp tacos and a frozen margarita, watching the mountains on the horizon.
In the evening, I ate at Edge, the hotel’s well-known steak restaurant. Dinner began with Spanish octopus before moving on to wagyu beef — the sort of steak that really only needs salt, heat and good timing. With it, a glass of Russian River Pinot Noir felt exactly right- desert nights are surprisingly cool after the heat of the day.
The hottest part of the afternoon is best spent inside the spa. I had a deep-tissue massage and came out feeling looser, the tension I’d been carrying without noticing having finally lifted.
Jet lag has its advantages here. I woke at four in the morning, wrapped a blanket around my shoulders and stepped outside. The fire pits were fading but still warm, and the air had turned cool enough to make the blanket necessary.
With so little humidity, the stars appear unusually sharp. In spring, you can clearly make out Orion and Gemini above the mountains, and the small cluster of the Pleiades once your eyes adjust. The moon lights the valley floor in a pale silver wash.
There is walking, too. This is real desert country and the signs on local trails occasionally remind you to be aware of rattlesnakes. They are part of the landscape here and tend to be most active at dawn and dusk when temperatures are cooler. Encounters are rare, but the reminder is useful: this is still wild terrain. Early morning is the best time to walk anyway, before the sun gathers strength and whilst the desert still holds the night’s cool.
One of my favourite hikes was Tahquitz Canyon, a short drive from downtown Palm Springs. The trail winds through rock-walled canyon and desert vegetation before arriving at a waterfall that feels unexpectedly lush in this landscape.
Palm Springs has its crazy moments. The Indian Wells tennis tournament each spring brings one kind of crowd; Coachella another. But the deeper appeal lies elsewhere.
On my last evening, I sat beside the pool watching the mountains change colour as the sun dropped behind them — pale gold first, then pink, then the deep blue of desert dusk. The air cooled quickly, the fire pits were lit again, and the valley lights began to appear far below.
It struck me then that Palm Springs has always understood something simple: glamour here was never really about the scene. It was about space, light, good food and the luxury of time.
Where to stay in Palm Springs
High above the Coachella Valley with sweeping views across the desert and mountains. Ideal for pool days and easy access to hiking.
A cheerful mid-century boutique hotel in PalmSprings itself, close to downtown and the airport.
Where to eat
A long-standing local institution for brunch — generous breakfasts, pancakes and classic American comfort food.
Dinner and cocktails in a room inspired by Cecil Beaton’s theatrical glamour.
A classic Palm Springs stop for frozen custard, milkshakes and something sweet after dinner.
Where to walk
A beautiful canyon hike leading to a seasonal waterfall and an important cultural site of the Agua Caliente Band of Cahuilla Indians.
