‘It’ bags come and go, but the most iconic luxury handbags are (and should last) forever. More than fleeting fads, they're investments that stand the test of time. To enter the pantheon of iconic handbags, they possess three key attributes: An easily-recognisable silhouette, a pop culture or celebrity association, and a staying power lasting years or decades. Below, a walk down fashion's memory lane, as we list the five most iconic luxury handbags we still covet today — and why.
The Chanel Flap Bag
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Today, the most popular Chanel handbag might be the 11.12 style, most commonly referred to as the Chanel Flap Bag, but few might know that the style actually comes from the original 2.55 bag, named after the month and year (February 1955) of its creation. Radically different from the small purses of the time, Coco Chanel's addition of the shoulder strap – inspired by those found on soldiers' bags – allowed the wearer the freedom to use their hands (or tuck them into their pockets as per Coco's signature pose).
Today, the diamond quilting and double-C turnlock closure have become as iconic as the French brand itself. It is said that earlier renditions of the bag features a secret pocket under the flap to store clandestine love letters from admirers (of which there were many calling after Mademoiselle Chanel). Over the nearly 20 years Karl Lagerfeld was at the helm, the flap bag enjoyed dozens of iterations, from being splattered in bandana prints to being encrusted in pearls – but the classic black lambskin bag continues to be the perennial favourite.
The Hermès Birkin 35
When you think about Hermès, most likely the next word that comes to mind is ‘Birkin’. Such is the legacy and enduring appeal of the iconic handbag, first created for English model Jane Birkin in 1984. Most likely even those who have little interest in fashion could recount the origin story of the bag, involving Jane Birkin and a serendipitous meeting with Louis Dama (an executive of Hermès at the time) on a flight, whereby Jane knocked over the bag she was carrying, the contents spilling out… as she lamented that there were no bags on the market big enough to store her belongings.
After Jane described her ideal bag to Louis, the Birkin bag was born. With waitlists of up to five years or more and whole host of celebrities and socialites wearing theirs as status symbols, the bag itself soon became a bigger cultural icon than what Jane could have ever imagined. Today, the Birkin's eye-watering price points have also made them treasured heirlooms and wise investments, in addition to being a piece of fashion history.
The Louis Vuitton Nano Speedy
A historic French house best known for its luggage pieces, Louis Vuitton has been creating lust-worthy bags since its founding in 1854. Over the years, many instantly-recognisable styles have found favour, from the Neverfull to the Capuccines, but perhaps one of the most beloved – and certainly still popular – styles is the Speedy bag. Legend has it, Coco Chanel first commissioned a custom version of LV's Steamer bag in 1925, requesting a smaller size that's more user-friendly for everyday use – and the more compact style, originally called the Alma, soon found commercial success and encouraged the French brand to produce even smaller goods.
The Speedy first made its debut in 1930, but was soon reimagined again in several sizes thanks to stars like Audrey Hepburn who requested an even more petite size, spawning the Speedy 25 that's still found on the arms of all our favourite It girls today. With the help of daring creative directors from Marc Jacobs to Pharrell Williams, the bag has been refreshed again and again, making it an enduring modern staple.
The Fendi Baguette
The Fendi Baguette (so named for the way it's meant to be worn tucked under the arm the way Parisians carry their baguettes), was first sold in 1998 under the creative direction of Silvia Venturini Fendi and Karl Lagerfeld. The diminutive size, a contrast to the boho totes of the time, was met with more skepticism than excitement at first, but one fateful appearance on the hit Noughties show Sex and the City changed everything.
The Fendi Baguette, worn by Sarah Jessica Parker, played a major role in the show, and just like that, it was immortalised in pop culture history. Now, given the resurgence of '90s style, the iconic silhouette – with its interlocked FF ‘Zucca’ insignia invented by Lagerfeld in 1965 – is more sought-after than ever, with fashion lovers seeking out the most outrageous versions from psychedelic hues to intricate sequinned Baguettes.
The Gucci Jackie
We all know that Gucci's iconic crescent bag is named the Jackie after former American First Lady and style icon Jackie Kennedy, but few may know that the bag was originally called the Constance. The story goes that Jackie wandered into a Gucci boutique in 1964 and, immediately smitten with the bag, left the store with six of them in hand.
Ever since then, she was rarely seen without it, featuring in plenty of street style photos with the handbag hanging on her wrist. The hobo bag, of course, was later the defining bag of the ‘70s, and with the bohemian aesthetic making a fully-fledged comeback, this structured version of the half-moon silhouette is still very much topping everyone’s wish list today.
The Lady Dior
The house of Christian Dior has enjoyed the success of many popular handbags from the Dior Saddle to the Book Tote, but the public's unending love story with the Lady Dior bag is thanks to its relationship with Princess Diana, for which the bag was named.
The prim and petite handbag was first spotted on the arm of Lady Di, the former Princess of Wales, during her trip to Paris and was since dubbed the Lady Dior bag. Its distinguishing features include the Cannage motif, inspired by the Napoleon III seats Christian Dior used at his fashion shows, and the gold charm dangling off the handle – reflective of the lucky charms the superstitious couturier always kept with him.
The Balenciaga City
Given its ubiquitous presence on the arms of celebs and It girls today, you'd never have guessed that the Balenciaga City bag was almost never produced at all. First released in 2001 and originally designed by Nicolas Ghesquière, its grungy, logo-less style with motorcycle details was a far cry from the most coveted bags of the day like the Fendi Baguette and Lady Dior. However, after it received supermodel Kate Moss' seal of approval, a slew of ‘00 icons like Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen and Paris Hilton began following suit, and the rest was history.
The City bag’s enduring appeal has led the brand to re-release the style this year, with Kate Moss and Nicole Kidman fronting the campaign. And with the rise of Y2K fashion and bag charms taking over street style, we wouldn't be surprised to see this bag top the charts for years to come.
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