As someone who has the type of soft, skinny strands that won't hold a clip, “how to get volume in fine hair” is probably one of my most Googled search terms. There's no denying that fine hair has a tendency to lie flat against your head but there's also a lot to love about this hair type: wash day is a breeze; it responds well to heat styling; it conveniently air dries in under 30 minutes and it feels less cumbersome in hot weather situations.
But I also know that fine hair can be frustratingly difficult to style if you're not using the right volumising techniques. The good news is, there are plenty of insider secrets to give fine hair a boost and help it to reach its full potential. The important thing to remember is that “there’s no single magic formula for thicker hair," says Rob Scott, a senior stylist at Larry King’s London salon who specialises in fine hair. "It’s a mix of consistent care, a great haircut, smart styling, and targeted treatments,” he adds.
Keep scrolling to demystify what fine hair is, how to inject bounce into limp strands and cheat your way to a fuller-looking head of hair.
5 facts about fine hair
- Fine hair is not the same as thinning hair: According to Lars Skjøth, founder of Hårklinikken hair health clinics and products, genetics determine if you're born with fine hair, while thinning refers to hair that becomes weaker over time and cannot grow for as long, often as a result of hormonal fluctuations.
- Fine hair is genetic: Hair type – including the thickness, colour and texture (curly, straight, wavy)— is determined by genetics inherited from both parents. So it's time to embrace what you were born with!
- Hair thickness (or thinness) and hair volume are two different things: “Hair thickness and hair volume are two different things," says Rob. "Hair thickness (or fineness) refers to the diameter of the individual hair strands. Hair volume relates to the fullness and body of the hair, which can be influenced by products and styling. So it's also possible to have fine voluminous hair.”
- Not cutting fine hair will make it appear thinner: “Split ends and breakage create a wispy, uneven look, making hair appear thinner over time,” says Rob. “Regular trims help to maintain fullness.”
- Hair can shrink in size over time: Even if you weren't born with fine hair, strands can become skinnier over time in a process called ‘miniaturisation’, says Lars. “This is when hair follicles gradually shrink in size, which means the life cycle of the hair also decreases. Once the strand falls out, the hair that regrows in its place is not of the same quality and grows back thinner and weaker.” Key culprits include stress, poor scalp health, nutrient deficiencies and certain medical conditions and medication.
How fine hair differs from other hair types
Physically, fine hair is smaller in diameter than medium or thick hair, which makes the strands narrower and more prone to damage.
You may also find that your hair gets greasier faster. “Every hair follicle on your head has an oil gland that produces sebum," explains Anabel Kingsley, brand president and consultant trichologist at Philip Kingsley. “Those with fine hair, tend to have more hairs per cm on their head than those with thicker, coarser or coiled hair textures and therefore more oil glands producing more sebum," she continues. “This is the reason those with fine hair often feel their hair gets greasy quickly.”
All the greasy hair hacks you could ever need.
How to add volume to fine hair
“In the short term, styling can create the illusion of thicker hair by enhancing lift,” says Rob. “Coupled with the best volumising products, this can add structure and texture. The effects will clearly vary from person to person in terms of how long the style will last – for some it may be a couple of days, for others it may only be a couple of hours.”
One way to extend the amount of time fine hair looks full and bouncy is with a lightweight mousse (Rob recommends Larry King’s My Nanna’s Mousse - it's a product I use a lot too as it plumps up hair without weighing it down). Another is with volume sprays. Just be sure to avoid products laced with heavy silicones or waxes.
We even have the photos to prove it.
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The key to injecting lift into fine hair is to spray a non-sticky volumiser onto damp hair. “Volumising sprays should be added mainly to the root area and dried into the roots whilst they are lifted,” Rob advises. "Once dry, the hair can have more oomf added by using texture sprays and root lifting powders."
Then blow-dry by lifting your roots up and away from your scalp using a brush. If you're going for a full-glam look you can also wrap your hair in rollers and pin them until your strands feel cool to the touch.
Take large sections and choose a lower heat and slower speed setting on your hairdryer to avoid tangling the hair and, in turn, causing damage. Too much heat also encourages your scalp to produce more sebum, which leads to greasy roots, undoing all your hard work.
If styling products are a short-term solution for how to get volume in fine hair, then massaging your scalp is the long-term strategy. Healthy hair follicles with good circulation create the optimal condition for hair growth and a more permanent solution to limp hair.
“A healthy scalp is imperative to healthy hair," says Rob. “Scalp scrubs can be used regularly alongside a scalp massager to help prevent blocked follicles, inflammation and poor circulation, all of which can lead to thinning. In cases of severe hair loss, try micro-needling or red light therapy once a week.” You could also try one of our editor-recommended hair growth serums.
When you always wear your parting in the same place, hair typically lies flat in that direction. Flipping your parting so it falls in the opposite direction - especially with a deep side part – is an instant way to lift your roots.
The best hair cut for injecting volume into fine hair
A blunt cut like a bob works well on fine or thin hair, especially if you're looking for a shorter crop. “A well-cut bob gives structure, shape and weight exactly where you need it, which makes it one of the best haircuts for creating the illusion of density on finer hair,” says Izzy Warren, a top hairstylist at Hershesons London salon. “Shorter lengths instantly make the ends look fuller and healthier," too.
For those with longer fine hair, Rob has created a specific cut to beef up stringey strands. While it's tailored to your hair's individual needs, "it can incorporate fringes, curtain bangs and shorter layers around the front and sides, as well as delicate invisible layers to give the illusion of fullness around the face,” says Rob. “This also adds width to a hairstyle, which is vitally important to those with finer hair.”
The 5-step volumising hair routine for fine hair
Step 1: Use a lightweight volumising shampoo
“Start with a shampoo designed specifically for volume as these formulas are lighter and help remove oils that weigh fine hair down,” Rob explains. Avoid anything with silicone and conditioning agents as they have the opposite effect. “Focus the shampoo on the scalp, where oil builds up most,” he adds.
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Step 2: Only condition the mid-lengths and ends
“Conditioner is essential, but it should never be applied directly to the roots of fine hair,” says Rob. If you want to create the best foundation for volume, “apply it from the mid-lengths downward, using only a small amount.”
Step 3: Gently towel dry
“Fine hair is fragile when wet," says Rob. "Instead of rubbing your hair with a towel, gently squeeze out excess water as helps to prevent breakage.”
Step 4: Apply a volumising styling product
“Use a mousse or root-lift spray before blow-drying,” says Rob. “Distribute the product evenly through the roots using your fingers or a wide-tooth comb.”
Step 5: Blow-dry for lift
“The best way to do this is to flip your head upside down or lift sections with a round brush,” says Rob. “You want to focus on creating lift at the crown and front hairline, where volume is most noticeable. Finish with a light mist of flexible hairspray to hold the shape without stiffness."
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