How to apply perfume may seem pretty straightforward—once you find a scent you love, you can spray it in a cloud above you and walk through it; you can mist the scent on your pulse points, or give your hair and clothes a spritz.
The trouble is, sometimes that zesty citrus or comforting vanilla scent can become a distant memory after just a few hours. Perfumers confirm that fragrance fade is a real thing, but if you want to start hearing more compliments on your perfume’s sillage (the scent trail that is left behind when you wear a perfume), then dousing your pulse points is definitely not the answer. Yes, the projection of your perfume will be strong – and will more than likely overwhelm everyone around you – but it doesn't mean that the smell will last all day.
Here are a few application methods to keep in mind for how to apply perfume correctly and ensure your fragrance takes you from desk to dance floor:
Pick your perfume strength
First things first, the strength of the perfume you choose is a factor. An Eau de Parfum has a higher percentage of perfume oils – typically between 15%-20% – than an Eau de Toilette, which is around 5%-15% and designed to be lighter, making it more prone to fading.
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Understand how perfume works
Perfumers talk about visualising your fragrance as a pyramid made up of three layers: a top, heart and base. Each layer comprises ingredients at different molecular weights, which means their staying power varies.
Citrus notes typically sit at the top as they are made up of small, light molecules that evaporate quickly and add energy to your scent. Notes such as woods, vanilla, and amber that are made up of heavier molecules sit at the base. “Dense notes reveal themselves slowly four to five hours after the perfume is initially sprayed,” explains Christophe Raynaud, the perfumer behind L’Artisan Parfumeur L’Orient fragrances. “Base notes are the ones that you still smell at the end of the day."
Apply to pulse points
Your pulse points refer to the spot behind your ears, your wrists, the nape of the neck, even behind your knees – basically, the warmest parts of your body, where the blood vessels are closest to the skin.
“Perfumes—whether alcohol, oil, et cetera—work through evaporation, so the heat of your body at the typical pulse points is always a safe bet for wear,” says Michael Nordstrand, owner and perfumer of Mythologist Studio, an independent atelier specialising in fragrance creation.
Another tip worth noting: try not to rub your wrists together after you apply, especially if you’re looking to make your scent last; this disrupts the perfume’s top notes and can make them fade faster, says Michael.
Add a personal touch
You can also take a more personalised approach to application. “I like to spray perfume in the places on my body where people are most likely to interact,” explains Emma.
A self-described “huge hand-talker,” Emma applies her fragrance on her wrists, forearms and elbows, in addition to her chest and the front and back of her neck—“great for a hugging encounter,” she says. “I have one client who often wears dresses and she swears by adding an extra bit behind the knees or at the skirt hem; it creates a lovely sillage when she walks,” Michael adds.
Apply to moisturised skin
In the same way that your foundation sits better when it's applied over primer, your perfume lasts longer when it can cling to moisturise on your skin's surface. “As long as your skin is well-moisturised, your fragrance should last decently,” says Emma Vernon, host of the Perfume Room podcast. This is because the oils and waxes in your moisturiser slow down the evaporation of the scent molecules inside perfume, adds Michael.
You can match the scent of a body lotion or oil with that of your perfume to boost its effect, or mix and match to create your own signature.
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Spray on hair and clothes
If you struggle to make your scent last throughout the day, try spraying it in your hair and on your clothes. “Fibres trap scent better and have the advantage of not being innately warm like the human body, so that is always the best bet to get more mileage out of a fragrance,” says Michael.
This is especially helpful if you live in a warm climate, he explains, as the heat of the atmosphere and your skin combined can quickly cause your scent to dissipate. Just make sure to test the fragrance in an inconspicuous area of your clothing, especially if you opt for a natural formula or a deep-coloured juice, such Byredo’s Rouge Chaotique, to avoid staining.
If you apply perfume to your hair, note that the alcohols can be drying. A water-based formula or mist that’s specifically formulated for the hair, like the Parfums de Marly Delina Hair Mist, is preferable.
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Try a fragrance enhancer
You can also try layering your signature scent with what Michael and other perfumers refer to as an “enhancer.” D.S. & Durga’s I Don’t Know What is a popular option, or try Dedcool Milk Layer + Enhancer. Both are sheer, lightweight musks that are made for layering and bringing out the aroma of other scents.
If longevity is a top concern and you don’t want to layer, Michael recommends making “a little decant” of your perfume. That, or you can pick up a separate travel-size option.
A version of this article originally appeared on Glamour US.
