When it comes to creating a flawless makeup base, we’re often inclined to stick to the routine that works. But learning how to apply foundation to mature skin might make a world of difference—especially if your usual products and techniques aren’t delivering the same results they used to.
“Since our skin changes as we age, our makeup should too! Meet your skin where it is now,” says Laura Geller, whose namesake makeup brand Laura Geller Beauty caters to mature skin. If you're dealing with new or different concerns, especially with foundation on changing skin, you're certainly not alone.
“One of the biggest client frustrations with mature skin is that foundation often highlights what you’re trying to diffuse,” says celebrity makeup artist Christian Briceno. That can mean product settling into expression lines on the face, making them appear deeper, or draining the skin of moisture, which highlights dryness and texture. But for every new concern, there’s a simple solution.
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Whether it’s a technique adjustment, a new formula, or a little extra skin prep, small tweaks can help you get the most out of your favourite foundation on mature skin.
Ahead, you’ll find expert-backed insight on…
- How to choose a foundation for mature skin
- How to apply foundation to mature skin, step-by-step
- Which common mistakes you should avoid
How to choose a foundation for mature skin
There are a few key factors to keep in mind when selecting a foundation for mature skin in particular. Chief among them is retaining moisture: “As we get older, our skin craves hydration, not heavy, drying formulas,” Laura says.
- Light to medium buildable coverage. Heavy coverage options can be drying and might exaggerate texture on the skin.
- A satin or radiant-natural finish. Flat, matte options tend to settle into fine lines, while dewy options can highlight dryness or texture.
- High water content. Water-rich foundations sink into thinner surface skin seamlessly, and prevent cracking.
- Skincare support. Hydrating skincare ingredients such as ceramides, peptides, hyaluronic acid, and antioxidants can help smooth the skin’s surface and improve wear time.
- Gentle mineral or hybrid formulas. If you have sensitive, thinning, or reactive mature skin, these tend to be less irritating and often feel weightless.
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If you prefer a solid foundation to a liquid, Laura advises opting for a baked formula. “Baked products start as creamy pigments, then are baked for 24 hours to lock in moisture, leaving you with a silky, lightweight finish that glides right over fine lines,” she says.
Laura's Baked Balance-n-Brighten Color Correcting Foundation is a good example: “It evens tone, brightens dullness, and never looks heavy on mature skin,” she says.
How to apply foundation to mature skin, step-by-step
Any makeup routine—at any age—should begin with clean, hydrated skin. “Mature skin loses water faster than it loses oil,” Christian says. He recommends prepping the skin with a moisture-locking serum (we love Medik8's Hydr8 B5 Intense), “to plump the surface so that the foundation has something to grip onto.” Follow that with a non-greasy moisturiser, which helps to smooth texture in addition to hydrating.
If you’re still seeing signs of dryness, Christian recommends adding a light layer of emollient, perhaps a thin ceramide cream, only to “high-movement zones,” including your smile lines and the corners of your eyes. “This keeps the foundation from cracking later. Let everything absorb fully, as rushing this step guarantees slip and separation,” he says.
“If there’s one step you never want to skip as your skin matures, it’s primer, primer, primer!” Laura says. “Primer creates a gorgeous, smoothing barrier between your skin and your makeup so foundation doesn’t seep into wrinkles, look caky, or break apart midday.” She also notes that the right primer can be your ticket to richer colour payoff and longer wear.
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Christian emphasises the importance priming with precision. “Use a hydrating primer on dull or dehydrated areas (cheeks, under-eye perimeter), and a smoothing or blurring primer very lightly on pores and smile lines,” he says.
If you’re using a liquid formula, Christian recommends pumping a small amount onto the back of your hand first. Use a dense, flat brush to pick up a minimal amount of product, and apply it to your skin. Laura recommends using “light sweeping or buffing motions,” while Christian suggests “light circular motions to sheer the foundation out and stretch it toward the hairline.”
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Both experts advise against applying a heavy layer of foundation all over your face. Instead, dot it strategically onto the areas where you want more coverage, evening of skin tone, or brightening. Christian says to “avoid loading crow’s-feet, deep lines, and the outer jaw” with more foundation; these are areas where the product might settle in and draw more attention.
To avoid a caky finish and product settling into fine lines, it’s a good idea to remove the excess foundation from the surface of your skin. Christian’s pro tip: “Take a damp makeup sponge and press—don’t drag—over the skin. This pushes pigment into texture and lifts off extra product.”
If you prefer to set your foundation with powder, Christian recommends only setting the areas where your face moves the most (smile lines, sides of the nose, and under the eyes if needed). Use a small, fluffy detail brush or a puff to very lightly, gently tap powder into these areas.
As a finishing touch, both Laura and Christian recommend using a fine, hydrating setting mist. This will help prevent the product from drying out on your skin.
What are some common mistakes when applying foundation to mature skin?
Common pain points when applying foundation to mature skin include product creasing and building up in fine lines, visible or exaggerated texture, and stiff, drying finishes. Choosing the right products can help resolve these concerns, but your application techniques are just as important. Here are some common mistakes to avoid in your routine, according to experts.
By now you know that retaining moisture is key when applying foundation to mature skin, but we’ll say it one more time. “Dry skin clings to pigment, leading to cracking, patchiness, and dullness,” Christian says.
“Mature skin looks fresher when coverage is focused on the centre of the face rather than the entire perimeter,” Christian says. Laura agrees: “Focus on areas where you want more brightening or evening, rather than applying one heavy layer everywhere.”
Say goodbye to dull skin.
“As cliché as it sounds, this is where ‘less is more’ really becomes the rule,” Laura says. “Heavy foundation can settle, crease, and make us look older. A lighter hand with a buildable formula gives the most youthful result. ”
One way to ensure product buildup in fine lines is to “paint” your foundation on with a heavy hand. Instead, use light upward sweeping or circular motions to blend the product with your brush, and tap or press foundation into areas that need more coverage.
To reap the full benefits of your skin prep, you have to give it time to take hold before applying foundation. “Not giving skincare time to absorb leads to slipping and streaking later in the day,” Christian says. If there’s time in your routine, it’s also a good idea to let your foundation set and settle for a few minutes before applying the rest of your makeup.
When in doubt, Laura says to keep it simple: “Remember to choose foundations with hydrating and nourishing ingredients, properly prep your skin, and you are good to go!”
Grace McCarty is the associate beauty editor at Glamour.
This article originally appeared on Glamour US.
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