The DM:
Dear derm,
I have suffered off and on all my life with eczema on my body and or highly sensitive skin. Anything I’ve tried on my face makes it a thousand times worse! I do not go outside any more because of this. I’ve had prescriptions for creams also but they also irritate my face. Water even makes my skin super flaky and dry.
Please help, it is affecting my life dramatically. I'm starting to see the signs of aging on my skin now, but I am terrified about what I can use as even the mildest seems to exacerbate it! I’ve always tried fragrance-free with no chemicals, I’ve tried it all.
I really want to take care of my skin and help aging etc, but I don't know where to start. Please help so I can try and reclaim my skin and life again, thank you.
Lisa J
The Derm:
Dr Derrick Phillips, Consultant Dermatologist at OneWelbeck.
The Diagnosis:
Dear Lisa,
Eczema is a prevalent skin condition affecting 2-10% of adults. A key feature of eczema is an impaired skin barrier, which leads to increased loss of moisture from the skin, resulting in dryness and irritation. Additionally, there are immune system abnormalities that trigger local inflammation, causing redness, itching and increased sensitivity.
Eczema often runs in families and is commonly associated with other allergic conditions such as asthma and hay fever.
How do you calm down an eczema flare-up?
To prevent further irritation, the focus should be on strengthening the skin barrier. Using a moisturiser with ingredients like ceramides and panthenol will help support and repair the skin barrier, while glycerin and hyaluronic acid will provide much-needed hydration. Paraffin-based ointments and sprays can also be soothing for inflamed skin, though the greasy texture may not be ideal for everyone.
Choosing the right cleanser is also crucial. Foaming cleansers, alcohol-based products or those containing exfoliating acids can exacerbate dryness and irritation. Avoid fragranced products, and opt for lukewarm water when cleansing as it’s gentler on the skin than hot water. It’s also best to steer clear of harsh actives like retinol and vitamin C as they can irritate inflamed skin.
I would always recommend arranging to see your doctor or a consultant dermatologist if the irritation and inflammation fail to improve with over-the-counter treatments.
How can I combat the signs of ageing if I have eczema?
When dealing with extremely dry or sensitive skin, there are several steps you can take to address the signs of ageing. Chronic rubbing of dry, itchy skin can lead to thickening, which creates exaggerated surface lines, giving the appearance of older skin. Focusing on hydrating moisturisers and gentle cleansers will help support the skin barrier, allowing it to retain moisture. This will not only calm the skin, reducing itchiness and urge to rub, but it will also improve the appearance of the thickened patches over time.
Sun exposure is a major contributor to skin ageing, so using a broad-spectrum sunscreen is crucial to protect the skin and prevent further damage. I recommend opting for a fragrance-free, mineral-based sunscreen as it’s less likely to irritate or cause skin allergies. Peptide serums can be beneficial, but always patch test before using them extensively, and avoid retinol and vitamin C as they can be too harsh for sensitive skin.
Ingredients to consider
Ceramides help to strengthen the skin barrier and lock in moisture.
Panthenol soothes the skin and repairs the skin barrier. Repairing the skin barrier and soothing the skin will have a beneficial impact on the signs of ageing.
Hyaluronic acid deeply hydrates the skin, adding volume and reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Niacinamide is a key ingredient that can fortify the skin barrier, soothe irritation and address pigmentation issues that are often a feature of ageing.
Peptide serums can be extremely beneficial for boosting collagen production and improving skin elasticity.
Derm-recommended treatments
Cicalfate+ Intensive Skin Restorative Serum by Avène is excellent for soothing and repairing the skin barrier particularly if your skin is sensitive or irritated. Its unique formulation contains panthenol and TRP-Regulin™ to calm inflammation, soothe the skin and support the healing process.
Liquid Peptides by Medik8 is great for boosting hydration and targeting fine lines. It works to stimulate collagen production, improve skin elasticity and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
AtoBarrier 365 Cream by Aestura is a great option for those with dry, compromised skin. It’s a rich, ceramide-based moisturiser that provides long-lasting hydration, helps to restore the skin’s natural moisture balance and strengthens the skin barrier.
Got a skin question for our derms? Drop us a DM at @glamouruk.
