If you’ve ever fallen down a rabbit hole of curly hair routine videos on social media, you’ll know the internet is convinced it can transform anyone into a springy-haired siren in six steps or fewer. From soft, beachy bends to corkscrew coils and cloud-light zigzags, every texture has its disciples and its own set of commandments, and yet, confusingly, everyone seems to be preaching something different. Should you be squishing? Clumping? Raking? Plopping? Or doing all of the above, but only on Tuesdays, and only with a silk towel?
The truth is, curls have never been more celebrated, but they’ve also never been more over-explained. For every method that promises life-changing definition, there’s an equally passionate comment insisting you’re doing it “completely wrong.” Meanwhile, most of us just want to know how to get our hair to look consistently good without spending our entire morning bent over the sink.
And here’s the secret curly veterans already know: while your pattern, porosity and lifestyle all shape your routine, there are a few universal principles that make the biggest difference, no matter what your spirals are doing. Think of them as the backbone of great curls: techniques you can adapt, swap, or tweak without having to adopt an entirely new hair identity every time a trend emerges.
So we asked top curl expert, international hair stylist and creative director, Aminata Kamara, to break down the essential building blocks of a routine that actually works.
“When you have curly hair, it can feel like you need a 10-step routine and an entire shelf of products just to get good results, which often becomes overwhelming and actually counterproductive,” Aminata tells us. “Whether you have fine, loose waves or thick, tight coils, you can follow the same simple process with just a few tweaks to get the look you want.”
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“One of the biggest mistakes people make is constantly refreshing their curls. I personally do not believe in refreshing. If you follow the method below, you should not need to add water or extra product until your next wash day, as doing so often weighs the curls down and undoes the results from your wash day.”
If your curls need a refresh, it is usually a sign you need to wash again. Your lifestyle plays a role. If you are active, gym-based, or live somewhere humid, your wash days may be more frequent. But there are no strict rules, it is about what looks and feels best to you.
*Phew*
“The most important thing, regardless of curl type, is understanding what your hair needs and choosing your products based on that,” she adds. “You do not need an overly complicated routine. These steps alone will give you definition, shine, and longevity between salon visits.”
Below, she shares her easy six-step curly hair routine.
The best curly hair routine, step-by-step
Start with a clean base. If your hair feels greasy, dry, heavy with product, or your curls have lost their bounce, it’s time to clarify. A clarifying shampoo gives your hair a deep cleanse and resets it for optimal styling. Follow immediately with a moisturising shampoo, which gives a gentler clean while adding softness, hydration, and bounce back into the hair.
Clarifying is not something you need to do often. Save it for when your hair really needs a reset. A moisturising shampoo will be your regular go-to. Make sure you rinse thoroughly before moving to step two.
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Conditioner rehydrates the hair after shampooing, bringing back moisture and softness. It also provides slip, which is why I always recommend detangling at this stage, as it reduces frizz, improves clumping, and boosts definition.
For fine or low-density hair, choose a lightweight conditioner so the hair stays fluffy and voluminous.
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For thicker or higher-density hair, go for something more moisturising with humectants, emollients, and oils to help define curls and add shine.
If your hair is weak or damaged, look for conditioners with protein to strengthen the strands.
Rinse thoroughly, but leave your hair soaking wet before you go into styling, as that hydration from the water is essential for curl definition and moisture retention.
Shag haircut inspiration for every hair type and length.
If your hair feels well-nourished after conditioning, you may not need this step. A leave-in is great if you need extra moisture or if you will be using heat tools, as many leave-ins offer added heat protection. But for me it’s not essential as it can just be an added product on your hair weighing down your curls.
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While your hair is still drenched, layer in your styling products. I always recommend a curling gel, a foam, or both.
For finer hair, a foam or mousse may be enough, with gel on the ends only if needed.
For thicker hair, start with a curl-defining gel and layer a foam on top.
Look for products with good slip, as this helps the curls clump tightly and bring out your natural definition. Apply product from the roots, then through the mid-lengths and ends using your fingers or a brush.
How your curls look when they are wet is how they will look when they are dry. Work in small sections from the back upward, and once your product is in and curls are defined, do not touch your hair until it’s almost dry.
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A diffuser gives you the most control. Start by drying the surface to set the shape. If your hair is longer, gently place your ends into the diffuser and push upward for bounce and lift.
Once your hair is 40–50% dry, flip your head over, as gravity helps create natural root volume. Move from side to side for an even distribution of definition and lift. Finish by switching to cool air to set the curls and soften the cast.
Once you are confident your hair is fully dry, you can then touch it, not before. This prevents frizz and preserves definition. Add a light oil to your palms, rub together, and gently scrunch or glide over the surface. This softens the finish and adds sheen.
